Drip rail sealing

[Clb]

The 93 has started leaking thru the body sealer over the doors,going to go after it, first thought was seal over the existing paint with seam sealer.
Knowing this will likley fail quickley, next thought is strip out the old seam sealer hit the rust with a derust it chem( forget the trade name of what I last used).
Then reseal and trim paint the rails or roof.
Opinnions/ options???
The truck is 2 tone, ( truck in my avatar) could do the drip rail only ' in the dark brown or do the whole cab top in dark brown..rated than try to blend 22 yr old cream! the paint is a 9 on this truck.
Thoughts?
Thanx in advance

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDIoit]

my favorite way to deal with the driprails is to cut them off completely.
weld some round rod in its place.
with your truck being so clean, im surprised its failing.
dukt tape on the outside of the rails, and 1" into the roof.
dig all the old seam sealer out with rolox/wire wheel
get to brite shiny metal.
then i would fiberbond it in. (waterproof bondo)
sand and then paint a boarder around the drip rails

could even incorporate some flames, scallops??

 

[Clb]

Thats where I'm headed.
If the paint was toast I could do more tin work, I kinda like the grip rail feature over the door.
And with 40k on the clock a 22 yr old rig ' shame on you dearborn !
But hey.

 

[laserjock]

I almost said take it to Brian and have him shave them but I didn't want to be a smart ass. I'll be curious to see what you pick. I've been wondering what to do to mine.

 

[Clb]

She's way to nice to start a major rehab on ( the mod brian is talking about ) its to cold to be laying down color in my shop now.
Its probably gunna get seam sealer driven into the joints and dressed down, for the winter.
Next summer the chitt can hit the rotating assyembley!
Seeing how I have the running boards and a stoved up self I will keep the rails ( as they make food grab points) the leak is the issue.
Once its repaired the big question is..
1 . do a 3/4" strip in the darker body ( brown) from bottom of drip rail up to hide the work.
2 . Do the cab top all in the dark drown ( like the old trucks ).
What do ya'll think?
I'm taking notes.
If I was doing a custom' I'd shave em and do poplocks on the doors, build in a visor up front and a tastey lil areo cab back.
Note for brian... This might be an answer to the bronco rear top on the 6 door we talked about when building broncosaurus.

 

[laserjock]

I'll tag @junk on this one but being up that high and having the drip rail to break paint up. If the paint is a 9, with that color you might be able to blend it in and then just do a good cut and buff job on the whole thing and make it a 10. I think if it were me I'd try that first. You can always put dark over it. If you are careful I'd think the blending would be mainly on the roof and without a ladder I can't see the roof. Maybe you can.

 

[junk]

If it was my truck I'd try to just repair the drip rails if I could. I'd heavily tape the outside of the drip rails even wrapping the tape up and over the top of the rail. Then I'd put a couple heavy layers of tape on the roof try to keep them close to the drip rail so any repair and paint isn't visible from the ground. I'd use a wire wheel to remove the seam sealer without messing up any more finish than absolutely necessary. It will be tedious.

I'd then do my repair using newer seam sealer if it's just a seam sealer replacement needed. If it's a little more extensive I'd use fiberglass reinforced filler then seam sealer and prime and paint. Either way I'd treat the rusty metal with a convertor product. I read good things about Rust Mort, Picklex, Phix etc. I've personally used Phix, but not on body stuff. I've used it on suspension stuff.

The best job would probably be to repaint the whole roof, but truthfully If I could hide most of the repair in the drip rails I'd have no issue fixing the rails and going forward. I personally like to leave factory finishes in place as long as they are in good shape.

If you do paint the whole roof whether you do the light or dark color you should be able to get a reasonable match that wouldn't look out of place. I typically find that the higher end paints match better than the cheaper paints.

Too bad you have drip rail issues with how clean that truck looks.

Good Luck! Let us know how you come out.

Jeremy

 

[Clb]

Yep I have an exellent family owned auto finish( paint) shop, they have aced even the 68 pu semi metallic light green/silver for me !
There is no damage visable top or from the ground, I'm just thinking of some dr. Brown up there for highlights.
Pretty sure I can hide a same color blend.

 

[IDIoit]

you can always get real crazy with the cheeze wizz!
heres a roof me and a buddy did about 6 years ago.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[jimcaf12]

The 93 has started leaking thru the body sealer over the doors,going to go after it, first thought was seal over the existing paint with seam sealer.
Knowing this will likley fail quickley, next thought is strip out the old seam sealer hit the rust with a derust it chem( forget the trade name of what I last used).
Then reseal and trim paint the rails or roof.
Opinnions/ options???
The truck is 2 tone, ( truck in my avatar) could do the drip rail only ' in the dark brown or do the whole cab top in dark brown..rated than try to blend 22 yr old cream! the paint is a 9 on this truck.
Thoughts?
Thanx in advance

You must be registered for see images attach

CLB I just painted mine and used a cheap line of caulk that after I got done painting shrunk down to where I wasnt going to trust it I bought this from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-29382 and taped it off redid it brush touch it and it came out real nice. Id consider going after yours with a narrow wire wheel on a drill that fits in the grove then por 15 then the sem sealer and brush it ,,if you tape everything off it should work good ,the sem seam sealer is very nice quality, jim