Doopy the Plow Truck gets a Cummins 4BT

Darrin Tosh

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Mmmmmmm luvs me a p pump'd Cummins. That thing will scream Darrin. I don't know all the answers to your questions, but have you called Piers yet?

Nope I have not,..but will check into them. Thanks.



Sweet find darrin. I wish I had that kind of luck surfing craigslist.
What's the plans with the current engine after the p pumped one goes in??

Thanks, I will be selling it off, parting it out and selling the long block as a core. Hope to be able to re-coop some of my cost of the new motor.

I did quite a search to come up with this thing, It was not on CL and was not official "for sale", once I get it in my possession ill fill in more details on how I found it. I just want it HERE with no hiccups first!



I take it there wasn't a P-pump 6BT available from the same source?

Sorry, had to ask but, seriously, what is the 4BT coming out of? And, would it be worth your time to rebuild it before putting it in, or are you at a point where you want to make sure it's good for now, throw it in, and call it good?

Nope, no other motors available, It is a bread truck application, I just want to make sure it is good and get it installed.
 

Darrin Tosh

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yep Darrin there are 3000 and 4000 gov spring kits avail for the p pump. I had a 3k and on some days you will get 3k max and others you will get 3500 out of her, don't know why the difference from day to day but that is the beauty of mechanical limits - I think it had to do with temps but that is just a wild guess.

That's what I thought, Ill stick with the 3000 spring. I assume like the VE pumps any higher than that they like to see 60lb valve springs.

Now for turning up the power a bit that is something i know a little about. If you check out the cummins section I have posted up fuel plate grind pictures so that you can sort of make one yourself on the bench grinder or if you have a mill you can do one much better (looks department).

Cool I will check that out,

I would think that your injectors from the VE pump will not work since there is a line pressure difference between the two systems - I can't remember what it is but memory wants to say it's like double or close to it so you need to use injectors from each system respectively. The big hosses are the what's called the 370 marine injectors, now the only problem with them is that the spray pattern is different and will amount to a slight hazing at idle but the power is simply amazing. Or you can send your injectors out to some place and have them modified but that's not cheap so I would stick with just getting something off the shelf like a 370 or there abouts. I did hear a few years back that someone was marketing a 425 injector that had the correct spray pattern and I looked into them for mine but the cost was up there. I don't know what they are running now but I doubt you need that level of injector.


For now I will just run the stock injectors, then keep an eye out for a set of aftermarkets used from someone that decided to go bigger. I just don't need to overdo it with this truck.


Bump your timing to 16 degrees, fuel plate, boost control (keep the WG from seeing the pressure until 30lbs then pops open) - stock WG trip at around 12-15psi there is still power left to be had so that is why we use a pop off valve - if looking for it on the web it's called a "Boost Control Elbow". Basically it's a 90 degree brass fitting that has been drilled to accept a ball bearing with a spring and set screw to hold it. Once the pressure from the manifold is high enough to shove the ball and spring back that is when the WG "sees" the pressure from the manifold. so it just delays the WG opening.

For Boost Control,, I will see what this motor has when I get it, but I would like to run the WHC1 turbo that I have on the VE motor, It has the waste gate removed and wired shut. It came off a 98 ish 6bt with a 12CM exhaust housing. I just don't know if it will work on this motor yet and wont till I get it here.



So Injectors, fuel plate, timing, WG control, Gov Spring Kit and don't forget AFC spring kit, this will allow the fuel to come on a little earlier then you can adjust the star wheel to dial her in and will help control the smoke and low rpm loading. Lugging of engines is not good, with the cummins you don't want to have the power come on until around 1500 RPM anything less by Cummins memo I seen years ago is called ABUSE and they would void warranties if they could prove it was lugged. And really 1500 isn't much so its just a bit off idle and works out well. I had mine dialed in like that.

I didnt know that the P Pump has a AFC Spring and Star Wheel, Thought it was just the VE Pumps so I will look into that as well.

Oh yer gonna love the P Pump - easy and cheap to turn up the power and tons of it available. I would recommend delivery valves also. get some 191 DV's if she doesn't have them already.

Yes I think I am also, But I really don't want anything radical, Even with the VE pump motor I was tickled with the power on that thing, so It would not take a lot to make the P pump match it.

Thanks Travis, Pretty sure I will be calling you for some pointers on when I get the motor here!
 

FordGuy100

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The injectors should in theory work, timing would be off. They are set to pop at a lower pressure than P pumped injectors, since the VE pump doesnt have as high of line pressure vs the P pump.

They are like 30-50BAR off from one another, which doenst sound like a lot, but in PSI terms I do believe it is quite a bit.
 

The Warden

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Ok As promised I was finally able to get a quick video of the truck pushing some snow. Even tho the 4bt is hurt, I plan on plowing with it for the winter.

Here is the vid,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsQa3aqCnOY&context=C373bc41ADOEgsToPDskKR-mNvIZ5eBwGraHlhGavw



.
:thumbsup: ;Sweet :thumbsup:

My only question is, what's that white stuff on the ground that that blade thingey on the front of the truck's moving? LOL

Re: engine availability, I figured as much, but had to ask :sly :angel: I'm sure finding one in my price range is next to impossible, but if I found a 6BT that I could afford, it would be difficult to say no :angel: even though I didn't get Jim's truck, I could still find a use for it...
 

snicklas

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When you would get to the end of a pass and were off the throttle and it was idling..... sounds like there should be a tractor or small endloader sitting there.....

Looks good.... hope the 3 try is a charm.....
 

jhnlennon

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I agreee with what argrve said EXCEPT for 191's and marine injectors.

Marine injectors are great for power, but SUCK on a daily driver. They run HOT, and are very smokey. They also have a tendancy to chug at lower RPM''s. Been there done that. Mileage also isnt as good. DDP stage 1 and 2's can be gotten for not much more and are FAR SUPERIOR. Mileage increases and lower EGTS, they are very well recieved all over the board.

Also delivery valves are not needed unless you are running an extreme injector. 181's are all you would really ever need if you are going with mild upgrades and injectors. 181's are what was found on the factory 215 hp pumps. With stock injectors and a fuel plate you will be happy...
 

Darrin Tosh

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:thumbsup: ;Sweet :thumbsup:

My only question is, what's that white stuff on the ground that that blade thingey on the front of the truck's moving? LOL

The white stuff is called Snow,. and the blade thingey on the front is called a Plow,..That makes Droopy a Snow Plow Truck. ;Sweet

It has to be COLD to make snow so you wont have to worry bout that stuff LOL

I had a customer come in from Puerta Rico 2 years ago to buy a 81 VW Jetta Diesel 2 door. It was the first time they have seen snow (they were mid 30's) in their life, it was a riot watching them have a snow ball fight out in the parking lot.

I have been seeing some cheaper 6bt's out there so if you are not in a hurry, you can take your time keep looking, and someithing will pop up.


I agreee with what argrve said EXCEPT for 191's and marine injectors.

Marine injectors are great for power, but SUCK on a daily driver. They run HOT, and are very smokey. They also have a tendancy to chug at lower RPM''s. Been there done that. Mileage also isnt as good. DDP stage 1 and 2's can be gotten for not much more and are FAR SUPERIOR. Mileage increases and lower EGTS, they are very well recieved all over the board.

Also delivery valves are not needed unless you are running an extreme injector. 181's are all you would really ever need if you are going with mild upgrades and injectors. 181's are what was found on the factory 215 hp pumps. With stock injectors and a fuel plate you will be happy...

Thanks for the input. Think Ill be keeping the stock injectors for now if they are good, looks like the P PUmp will make 200hp and 450tq easily with my bigger turbo, and pump mods.

I am considering a 4K governor spring, but keeping the rpms below 3300 or so, without 60lb valve springs. Then it will be close to the same as the ve pump with the 3200 gov spring.

Still need to decide what to do with the fuel plate, and the afc wheel, This is just all new to me with the P Pump, still doing lots of reading,.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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You need to get that thing back on the road there goat smuggler so we can get that plow truck drag race out of the way.:sly
 

Darrin Tosh

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You need to get that thing back on the road there goat smuggler so we can get that plow truck drag race out of the way.:sly

Yes,..Yes I do! ;Really


The New P Pumped Motor arrived today!, They had a mix up and tried to deliver it to my home first, that didn't work out so well, no Forklift at home.

It was a huge crate! we got it off the truck, broke down the crate, removed the trans, belhousing and clutch and took these pics:

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Pic of the T19 Trans, Belhousing, and Clutch:

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Overall it looks very good, The pump has been rebuilt at one time, looks relatively recent, the turbo was a little stiff but spins freely now, with no play. It turned over by hand and felt to have good compression.

As you can see they just cut the frame of the step van and shipped everything, minus the intercooler. Including the frame itself!


Well of course I had to hear it run, I filled it up with oil, got rid of all of the piping that was not needed for a test run, filled up the fuel filter with Sanadyne, installed the downpipe, hooked up the necessary wires, and it fired up with about 2 minutes of cranking.

The thing sounds GREAT!, WAY quieter than my old motor.

Here are a couple more pics with the piping out of the way:

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For now I only let it run for about 15 seconds, enough to clear the fuel out of the lines and let the Stanadyne fill the injection system.

In the next couple of days My plans are to hook up a oil pressure and temp gauges, fill the radiator up, and let it run until it warms up and monitor temps, pressure, etc. Want to make sure that I have no suprises before getting it ready to get installed.

Now I am excited,.....again,.....
 

Darrin Tosh

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My buddy Doug and his son came over yesterday, I got the radiator filled with coolant, hooked up a temp gauge and oil pressure gauge, and we got it fired up.

I installed the intercooler pipes and Doug brought over his Intercooler from his 4bt project. He has the exact same motor. So I was able to hook up the turbo as well.

We got it started, put some cardboard over the front of the radiator and ran it until the thermostat opened up. Let it circulate, get good and warm. It ran great, sound s awesome. There is a little minor stumbling at idle but think that may be from sitting.

Before they guys left we fired it up again so I cold get a video of it for ya,..

Here ya go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQXcvaljQHA&feature=player_embedded
 
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