texcl
Full Access Member
I looking over the job and I would assume you need to loosen the injector lines on the IP side to get clearance to remove the injectors. Is this correct?
Do you need to loosen injector line on IP for injector change?
- Thread starter texcl
- Start date
smolkin
Stuck inside Mobile
It might be easier to remove the IP and lines together. Never done injectors but I know the line nuts on the bottom side are a bear to get to when it's on the truck.
gandalf
Senior Member
I changed out my injectors as part of the same job when I changed the IP. I didn't have to consider this aspect.
That being said, if the IP is in place, and the hard lines are in place, then the answer is, probably yes. You certainly want to avoid crimping one of those hard lines. IF you're replacing all 8 injectors, it might almost be worth your time and effort to just remove the IP with all hard lines attached. If you do that, be sure to review Mel's article about the fuel delivery system. It's in the Tech section, 2nd page I believe.
If you leave the IP in place there are two obstacles to loosening the lines at the IP. 1) The hard lines coming in toward the bottom of the IP are hard to do. You almost need a special tool. It's sort of like an open sided long socket. 2) Each side, each set of four hard lines, has clamps attaching them to each other. These are easy enough to remove, but be absolutely sure to replace them. Otherwise those hard line will self-destruct.
That's my thoughts on the subject. Personally, I'd remove the IP with lines attached if I were doing all injectors. You should time the engine with new injectors anyway, so it's not that big a deal.
That being said, if the IP is in place, and the hard lines are in place, then the answer is, probably yes. You certainly want to avoid crimping one of those hard lines. IF you're replacing all 8 injectors, it might almost be worth your time and effort to just remove the IP with all hard lines attached. If you do that, be sure to review Mel's article about the fuel delivery system. It's in the Tech section, 2nd page I believe.
If you leave the IP in place there are two obstacles to loosening the lines at the IP. 1) The hard lines coming in toward the bottom of the IP are hard to do. You almost need a special tool. It's sort of like an open sided long socket. 2) Each side, each set of four hard lines, has clamps attaching them to each other. These are easy enough to remove, but be absolutely sure to replace them. Otherwise those hard line will self-destruct.
That's my thoughts on the subject. Personally, I'd remove the IP with lines attached if I were doing all injectors. You should time the engine with new injectors anyway, so it's not that big a deal.
02x72
Full Access Member
I do loosen them. Makes it easier to turn them and puts alot less stress on them by doing so.
texcl
Full Access Member
Yeah, It's a lot more lines than I'm used to and the bottom lines look pretty impossible to loosen without removal. Might just wait till I have the funds to do the IP at the same time.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
It can be done without the special socket to loosen the bottom lines on the pump but. You can do it by leaving the lines in place on the pump. Its a little more of a job but doable. As posted if you remove the lines and the line clamps never run the engine without the clamps reinstalled. They are a bibration illimater clamp. the fuel pulses make so much vibration in an unsupported line that they crack near the injecters. There is no recognised way to repair the broken lines but we have some members that will sell you a replacement soft line. The soft line is a good idea for a behind the seat get you home part. Its sure better than carrying a complete set of lines behind the seat. The special tool to install any line on the bottom of the pump is a necessary tool for any cross country trip. I have replaced about 100 injecters doing it many differant ways. For me I like to remove the injection pump with the lines attached to it. The trick is to remove the nuts and bolts then the fuel feed line. Then slide the pump out of the gear cover. Slide it to the passenger side and up thru that side atachment stud and the top stud. It comes right up and out. Also thos clamps. I hate how short the bolts are so I replaced them with either 3/4 or 1 inch long 1/4x20 bolts. Remove on and try to reinstall it. You shortly will see what I mean. This is the primary reason some wont replace the clamps when they remove them.
rockbender
Full Access Member
I didn't loosen mine at the IP, just removed the line clamps and gently moved each line to the side enough to get the socket over the injector.
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
x2
Ugly Moosling
Full Access Member
No need to make yourself extra work. Loosen and remove all 8 lines at the injector only. You can gently lift up on the lines to get the return lines out, then gently push them to the side to slide the socket on. Wait to start any of the lines back on til all 8 injectors are in and the return lines are back on (now is a good time to replace them if you haven't done so recently). Don't force the lines or bend them, they should move enough to do what you need. If you were doing the pump at the same time it's easiest to swap injectors with the pump off, but definitely not necessary.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Also to add one more thing to all this. Hand tighten the nuts to the injecters all the way down. Using a wrench when they are 1 or 2 threads on and they tighten up is a good way to cross thread the injecter. But you will be happey to learn the injecter threads are softer than the hard line nuts. So the injecter is ruined and not the nut. But even that can be fixed by removing the injecter and using a knife edge file to clean up the threads but do it upside down so nothing will get into the injecter. If a hard line is tuff to hand thread just loosen the line from the pump and try again. You know the line is not cross threaded on the pump and giving the line some slop helps to get the threads started correctly. My number one hard line is tuff to start on the injecter no matter what line I have on that cylinder. I never have been able to figure out why either. I even removed the Rotunda clamp probe from that injecter and installed a van number one injecter line but it was the same thing... Who knows. Maybe that injecter bore on that head got drilled and threaded wrong years ago...
Black dawg
Registered User
I like to remove the injector lines, it is actually very easy if you look at them and see how they are grouped. Only have to remove two clamps, two sets of three injector lines, and two single injector lines. It is very easy and a regular old 5/8 unmodified wrench works fine.
texcl
Full Access Member
That might be what I end up doing since I can undo the top ones remove them exposing the bottom lines. I decided to hold of until the govt' opens up again, I'm working for free as of today and don't know when my next pay check will be, so have to conserve my money.
