Extender for Injector #1

[screwhead]

I know this has been discussed before but at least from the posts I saw the only options were finding one of the lines off a van or classic diesel designs used to sell them but does not anymore.

Got a baby moose fuel injection pump, installed, runs great but was leaking out of/around injector 1. Took off clamps and attempted to remove hard line to adapter/extension when the nut cracked nearly in half as I loosened it. Very weird, think it was cross threaded. Am supposed to be moving tomorrow so I got a new line and tried to see if I could screw it back on even if the threads were kind of damamged and no luck. Looks like I’ll need a new extender for sure. I was hoping someone had a slick idea of how to put your own together or any other advice.

I have called all the salvage yards in my area, checked Facebook mp, Craigslist, etc. Waiting on a reply from two people but not hopeful about it. Really any help would be appreciated don’t want to end up stranded in Texas.

Thanks y’all.

 

[screwhead]

I could also order one but it’s at least a week out and 300 big ones for this tiny pos

 

[Old Goat]

I think it is only on the 7.3 engines, has something to do with timing them as I remember.
Can you find the hard line to that injector for a 6.9? There has to be IDI guys in your area, I wold hope.

I just did a search through my spare IP`s and Hard Lines I dragged home from PNP. But I do have one on my spare 7.3.
Really not sure of the reason for it and just on the 7.3`s.

Do a seach on PNP`s in your area to see what they have. Or www.row52.com and type in F250/350 etc to see what comes up. Do a wide search area, all PNP type yards connected to it will come up. Maybe some IDI`s will be in the heard.


Goat

 

[BlindAmbition]

I've got one or three of those laying around, PM me

 

[Greenie]

I like the clamps you used on the return lines! My factory lines were great for almost 25 years until they were replaced, now it's ongoing leaks.

 

[ttman4]

Yes IIRC it's for timing the engine. I stripped one out once so I slightly bent #1 injector line & very carefully got it to thread up to #1 injector.
Don't think it's really important. However by having it then the clamps on injector lines clamp up better.
If you can find #1 injector line from a van then it fits cause the "Thingie extender" is on #4 injector on a van.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

I have seen the individual injector lines for sale for about $60 online. Here’s one place, but you may find it cheaper if you shop around:

INJECTION LINE #1 7.3 IDI

RRFE8TZ9A555A

oregonfuelinjection.com

 

[BlindAmbition]

I've got a one left, the other two are spoken for (*** sent on those) if anyone needs one. Have a bunch of linesets as well

 

[Old Goat]

That timing thingy I think might have been where the Ford dealers clamped the Factory Timing clamp for the Rotunda Meters.


Goat

 

[screwhead]

Found some in a salvage yard and picked up an extra in case. Found it off of row52.com

Thank y’all again for the help. Hopefully will be back on the road by this evening.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That timing thingy I think might have been where the Ford dealers clamped the Factory Timing clamp for the Rotunda Meters.


Goat

It was.

 

[screwhead]

@Greenie they are Maddox clamps, they are sold at most part/hardware stores. They seem to be tough and well made. Mechanic told me other day that you’re supposed to use the spring style because worm style have a tendency to leak in two opposite spots of the clamps diameter. But I haven’t seen these leak yet and have read a lot of bad stuff about spring style on here.

Dad used to tell me to put two on a line, install in opposing directions and will never leak. Wish there was enough room on return caps for that.

 

[franklin2]

The constant tension spring clamps the factory uses are best. As a new hose shrinks, the constant tension clamp keeps the same clamping force on the hose. A worm or other type of screw clamp can loosen as the hose gets older, causing aggravating leaks. The screw or worm clamps work ok if you go back and tighten them after two weeks and then occasionally check them later on.