DIY RSK... Whos done it?

LCAM-01XA

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Aight, *** is going on in there? Typically when you do thru-frame shackle pivots you cut a big hole and you weld the bushing's outer shell thru it. Then you slide you bushing in, and add the inner sleeve. The side plates bolt to the inner sleeve, thus the sleeve moves with the side plates. The bushing itself does whatever the heck it wants to do, its only purpose is to keep the inner sleeve and the outer shell separated at any and all instances. With what you got there, where is the upper bushing gonna go? Are you planning in using a smaller bushing on either side of the frame, with this monster sleeve being their inner sleeve and the shackle side plates also carry said bushings' outer shells? That would be an interesting take on things, and not quite what I had in mind but whatever, it will work. Only thing is tho, those welds between the monster sleeve and the frame, ain't they gonna interfere with the side bushings? Or are you machining a bevel into the bushings' ID edge on the frame side to clear the welds?
 

IDIoit

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no bushing on the top.
the top is a hard mount i did order 5/8" bolt with a zerk fitting.
specifically for shackles.
i thought about this when deciding how to go, but then i would have to machine a bushing everytime
they needed to be done.
it will do just fine, it may get a little noisy after a while, but i havnt had an issue on any of the other vehicles ive done this to.
if i dont like it, i can always change it in the future.
afterall this is just a pivot point, vibration isolation will be taken care of with the bushing in the leaf.
 

LCAM-01XA

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no bushing on the top.
the top is a hard mount i did order 5/8" bolt with a zerk fitting.
specifically for shackles.
i thought about this when deciding how to go, but then i would have to machine a bushing everytime
they needed to be done.
it will do just fine, it may get a little noisy after a while, but i havnt had an issue on any of the other vehicles ive done this to.
if i dont like it, i can always change it in the future.
afterall this is just a pivot point, vibration isolation will be taken care of with the bushing in the leaf.
K, so the bolt is the bushing essentially, like some tractor implements. Then when you start tightening the bolt, where do you stop? I mean in typical bushless application you have an inner sleeve to provide support between the two side plates and said sleeve is also your "bearing" surface with grease used as a lubricant between it and the outer sleeve, but in your case without an inner sleeve you'll just tighten the side plates right against the monster outer sleeve. Unless of course you leave the bolt just snug but not actually tight, however in that case you'll end up with the side plates becoming your "bearing" surfaces and wearing from the bolt...

Not dissing on your idea, just trying to provide some constructive criticism. Cause I freakin hate doing things two times over, especially when there is welding involved LOL
 

IDIoit

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your point is very valid, the shackles are made out of 3/8" plate. and will be welded together like the SD shackles.
the question of "where will you stop, can be answered with this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Seasense-...ash=item2ca30d4b6c:g:CZ0AAOSw91NTsDzi&vxp=mtr

constructive criticize away! just hurts to use my brain at 3 am PST LOL
as im sitting on my couch with a 4 month old that just wants to play instead of sleep!
well atleast he's not screaming ;Sweet
 
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LCAM-01XA

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Almost feel your pain on the baby thing... but then again, you did have fun placing the order for it, didn't ya? LOL Gotta pay to play :D

Jokes aside, so the answer to how to not overtighten the shafts is apparently by not tightening them at all. Not sure I like that idea much, but with a welded shackle there should be no forces trying to pop the e-clips off. Still only leaves you with 3/8"-wide working surface per side tho, unless you bore the holes slightly smaller and thus have to press the shafts into the shackle plates. Which may actually not be a bad idea at all, and should take care of the issue and force the shaft to use the entire monster outer sleeve as a load bearing surface. Add a few tack-welds instead of them e-clips, and you're all set. Yeah it makes the shackle non-removable without a grinder for the welds, but if you build it how i think you will you'll have to worry about the frame well before the shackle becomes a concern... At which point you can do full perimeter welds on the outside, not just tacks. Since you'll be grinding for removal anyways, might as well overkill it good.
 

sjwelds

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Yeah make stinkin' sure the side plates can't turn in relation to the pin! I've seen it far too many times where the pin turns where it ain't supposed to. Not pretty.
 
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