Disconnect & reconnect sending unit/pump lines at rear tank ?

[OnDaRoad]

On a 94' IDI ...

Swapping rear fuel tanks - dropped the crap one yesterday
and just cut the supply lines feeding the sending unit
after the steel fuel lines ...

My welder told me the lines from the sending unit are
are immersed in hot water before sliding onto the
steel supply lines - but it is a ' one time ' method

How do I remove the flexible lines & reconnect without
damaging them on the donor tank ?

Is there a splice kit available at Autozone - O'Reillys - Advance ?


Thanks,



Jim

 

[itsacrazyasian]

jim you have a pic of what you're trying to accomplish here? for some reason i can't picutre what you're trying to do. maybe it was getting nailed with my high school year book this morning that did me in.

 

[icanfixall]

Wow... How did your year book fall and nail you... Earthquake or something... Here its always the second shoe that tags me... I'm thinking what you want to know is how the connecter comes off the steel sending unit. If so there is a U type clip on the connecter that you pull out. Once thats out just pull the fitting off the steel line. Remember which clip goes to what line.. They are differant line sizes. Return is 5/16 and supply is 3/8...

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Wow... How did your year book fall and nail you... Earthquake or something... Here its always the second shoe that tags me... I'm thinking what you want to know is how the connecter comes off the steel sending unit. If so there is a U type clip on the connecter that you pull out. Once thats out just pull the fitting off the steel line. Remember which clip goes to what line.. They are differant line sizes. Return is 5/16 and supply is 3/8...

i have a bookshelf over my bed. cat knocked it over.

you need something like this?
http://dormanproducts.com/p-20636-800-054.aspx?make=FORD%2520TRUCK&parttype=Connector%252D%2520Fuel%2520Line

available in 5/16 and 3/8 in straight and 90 angles

 

[itsacrazyasian]

btw like said above, the lines can be removed without damage by removing the white nylon clip upward and pulling the line off.

in my case since my truck is converted. i bought the quick connector ends that go on the fuel tank at the parts store and used fuel injection hose to slip over the hard plastic and onto the fuel tank connectors.

http://dormanproducts.com/p-24796-800-120.aspx?parttype=Connector%252D%2520Fuel%2520Line

 

[gandalf]

I've never actually dropped the rear tank. I have yet to tackle that treat. However, I would think that the connections are the same as used on the front tank. I think Gary is right. There would be a clip holding each flexible line on the hard line. In the picture below the clips are almost at the end of the cone which fits over the hard line. You can make them out, with just a bit of imagination. The clips come in a bubble pack---Dorman Quick Disconnect Retaining Clip Assortment 5/16 & 3/8. Dorman part number is 800-015.

Have new clips on hand when you remove the lines. It's hard to remove them without destroying them. Each leg of each clip has a little hook to hold it in place. Also, try to remember which flex line goes on which hard line.

I just added a picture of the clips themselves. Sorry the black clip is out of focus, Gary. I know how much you like good focus.

 

[icanfixall]

Ken.. Thats a great pic of the lines on the front tank. The rear looks the same but its got the sender located directly in the center of the tank... No way can you reach it without stressing the lines. I broke loose the supply line thru the sender cap when I removed my rear tank. It would only leak fuel when the tank was full or you drove crazy and the fuel splashed around. I finally found how to get the lines some more slack when removing the rear tank. In front of the frame cross member you just cut loose the supply and return lines from the frame. Then you can safely drop the tank enough to reach the connecters... So a cat did it... I'm laughing because years ago one of my wifeys cats was trying to get at a neighbors cat thru our bedroom window. I woke up to see this huge rear foot of that ****** cat jumping across the bed come down on my left eye. Well she made traction off my eyelid. Terrible way to wake up screaming at the cat... Wifey and adughter come running into the bedroom and they see my bleeding eyelid.. So in a vey calming voice my wafe asks our daughter to please get a clean wet wash cloth for dad... Yeah... Been there and got the scars to prove it.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

I think the hot water may work. I used a heat gun last time I did it. The ideal way to deal with that hose is heat the fitting and let it heat the line as you push it on, but I am not sure if you can do that with the plastic fitting.

 

[OnDaRoad]

Been swapping rear ends ....

Heres' a new one for you all ....

The 94' IDI CC dually I bought had a rigged 3/4 or 1 ton
single rear end installed - wheel spacers on one side
and lug nuts on the other to make it look like a
dually rear end ....

I missed it - Joe (my welder buddy) missed it when
I went to buy the truck .....

So, I commenced a rear end swap - turns out
the rear fuel tank had an attempted repair to the
bottom of the tank with JB Weld ? that ain't sticking
so add a rear tank swap to my " to do " list ...

Someone had installed a Ford sending unit
and the lines I were referring to had a blue outer rubber ?
jacket and braided steel ? - they were crimped onto
a steel supply line pair running back to the selector
valve ? .......

Of course I had to drop the receiver hitch to drop the fuel tank,
the tank had rust - algae - water - fuel in it so the
sending unit was questionable ....


Long day - but at least a warm one ....


Thank you for the advice everyone ....



Jim

 

[OnDaRoad]

What I ended up doing ...

What I ended up doing ...

The 94' F350 had a replacement sending unit? that had blue
rubber over braided steel that transitioned to steel linnes
running in one piece to the switching unit ...

The 94' F350 had the plastic lines ....

I curt the metal lines w/ a tubing cutter,
ran a short piece of fuel injection hose,
double clamped the hose to the steel line,
transitioned the fuel injection hose with a barbed nipple,
heated the nipple and plastic fuel line carefully and
slid the plastic fuel line over the barb connector,
installed a short piece of fuel injection hose over
the plastic fuel line on the barb (the width of a hose clamp),
clamped the fuel injection hose .....


Its' holding .....




Jim