Another pulling fuel from rear tank, and dumping into front tank.

[Old Goat]

2 1/2 years back I swapped in the 38 gallon fuel tank,
2 new Fuel Senders and Shower Heads.
Bought a new Chicom Fuel Selector valve, (market is flooded with them
in the $50 - $80 range) think I got it off Amazon.

Got it all hooked up, and everything worked perfect. Switched between tanks
gauges reflected the correct fuel level.
Think I used the front/rear tanks 3 times, and decided to just run off the rear
and use the front for a reserve.

About a year back I flipped the switch just to make sure it was working, and didn`t work. So just left it on the rear.
2 weeks back decided to dig into it and see what is wrong. Goes to front gauge, but not back to the rear. Wiggle the plug, tap it with a hammer...nothing.
After a few days of driving, there is a puddle of fuel on the asphalt in a shopping center in Reno 60 miles from home. Oh Great!

So finally last Thursday I pulled the bed to see where the leak is.
With the return going into the front tank, it fills it to the top and pushes the fuel out around the Roll Over Valve/Grommet.

A week before this, I went to PNP and pulled a fuel Selector valve off a 91 Diesel, along with as much fuel line as I could cut out on both sides and wire harness.
And one off a gasser F250. charged $12 for each one.

I decided to move the valve from behind the front tank to 1/2 way between it and the trans x mount for easier access. Got it mounted and looking where to cut and splice the fuel lines. then go to thinking this sob could do the same thing again and I would be back dickin with it again....so...

Why not just run both Supply and Return lines from the rear tank straight to the engine and forget the valve?
Then mount and wire in the Facet pump I have to the front tank to transfer fuel to the rear tank when it get to below 1/2. Plumb in a pressure switch to cut off the pump when it runs out of fuel.

Sound like a good plan?

Another thing...I removed the 4 screws on the Heater Control assy. to get to the switch that selects front and rear tank. It pushes into the dash, but how do you get your hand in there to get it out? I want to check it to see if it is working.
or did Ford build the truck around it and impossible to get to?


Goat.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Sound like a good plan?

Yes it does. It's very similar to the set up that I use on my Blue Truck except that I run on the front tank (I had already bypassed the FSV and had been running on it only) and transfer from the rear Bronco tank into the front tank. I also just use manual control for the switch for the pump.

 

[Old Goat]

Then you really have to keep an eye on the fuel level so
the pump doesn`t run dry.
That`s why I thought of a pressure switch.
Need to do some Googling to see how to wire it in.

With the bed removed, I then can pull the fuel lines off both tanks. Then with the 2 bolts removed, you can pull the Fuel Selector valve forward to access the 6 fuel lines and electrical plug. Now the FSV is out of the system.

Attached both Fuel Lines to the rear tank. Snapped them into the holders on the frame.
Behind the cab I cut fuel lines, and slipped in the 2 straight sections I got from PNP.
Used the Dorman splice connectors, (3/8" & 5/16").
You can buy them from your friendly corner auto supply.
They are about $10 for 2.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBLCPWR/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNEIyNDlUSzM3WTBKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU3NDYzMjFVRERMVlA4VFRJRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzg4NzkyMzhOQldXMVVRNkY2MCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbDImYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
EDIT: The splices leaked today while filling the supply line from the rear tank. I used a large syringe and ATF to fill the line to cut down on the amount of air problems. I noticed a large wet spot under the cab, it was the ATF. Another was was a little wet.
Guy at NAPA said these are really for air line as used on trucks.
If air line for a truck is 3/8" and 3/8" for the plastic fuel line, shouldn`t be any difference...right...???
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Then under the cab over laped the 2 lines and cut and spliced them.
Now we have a straight shot from rear tank to engine.

W/O the FSV need to work on how to make the fuel gauge work. Like to have 2 gauges giving me the fuel in ea tank.
I know the yellow/blue wire is for the rear tank..
The Blue/yellow is for the front tank.

The other 3 wires are
Brown/White
White/yellow
Red.

I think the Red is for power, probably to Fuse panel and then selector switch on dash.
This is for my 86 F-250, other years might be different colors.
Pretty sure what I have read and searched, the different years are wired the same
If you buy a new plug with all black wires, they would be wired the same way.

1. Y/B Rear Tank
2.W/Y
3. B/Y Front Tank
4. R
5. B/W

Any way hope this helps some one out there.


Goat.

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

Currently working on a short in my FSV system myself, wire coding was helpful! I get a new switch this week, unplugged the chassis harness leaving the cab and the fuse still blows which indicates switch or short in cab.

Never-Have-I-Ether

 

[Old Goat]

I been doing a bunch of searching on what/how the dash switch switches the gauge and which tank.

This post from a thread from Diesel Stop Forum lays it out pretty well.
original poster of the thread has a 92 F250 IDI,
don`t know what the below posters year is.


tank switch wiring

I know this thread is a few months old, but I worked on my tanks switch today, and here is some good info.

The brown/white and the red wires that go into the selector valve are the wires that control which tank is in use. They work like this:

The switch on the dash is wired so that in one position the brown/white wire is +12v and the red wire is gnd. In the other position, the brown/white is gnd and the red wire is +12.

So- pull the connector from the selector valve and take a voltmeter and stick probes into the two contact on one end that are next to the unused contact. These are labelled D and E.

As you switch from front to back tank you should see the meter go from +12 to -12.

The other 3 wires handle the fuel senders. The level sender in the tanks are variable resistors to ground. The yellow/blue wire goes to the rear tank and the blue/yel wire goes to the front tank. The yel wire goes to the guage. You test the gauge by shorting yellow to ground- it should now read empty. With yel disconnected, full.

So, when the valve switches, it either connects yellow to blue/yel (front) or yel/blue (rear).

Maybe this info will help somebody.



Goat

 

[Old Goat]

I found a YT Vid and one thread showing what what makes these FSV`s tick.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Tank Switching Valve

www.thedieselstop.com

This one showing if you install a pollak valve with the round pin/connector.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I don`t like how he use`s crimp connectors.
I connected the 2 wires to the senders, using a 2 pin weather Pak plug.

The 3 that go forward, I used a 3 pin Weather Pak plug/connector. This way it is water tight.

I did this because 2.5 years ago when I put in the 38 gal rear tank, senders and new FSV, the original plug was messed up. I Found one in PNP, cut off the old one, and wired it in with this Pig tail set up.
Thinking maybe own the road if I could only find a FSV with the round pins, I could then make another Pig Tail the same way. Sort of plug and play.

Goat

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

Do you know how the wiring for the switch works? Haven't seen any color coded diagrams. (1993 7.3IDI) There are 3 red wires and 2 brown/white stripe and 1 black/brown stripe.

Thanks,
Never-Have-I-Ether

 

[Old Goat]

Do you know how the wiring for the switch works? Haven't seen any color coded diagrams. (1993 7.3IDI) There are 3 red wires and 2 brown/white stripe and 1 black/brown stripe.

Thanks,
Never-Have-I-Ether

I haven`t got that far into it yet. I took out the 4 screws that hold the heater controls to the Dash. And the switch is part of it.
Now iam not sure how to access the switch. or turn the assy. I want to remove the switch to see if it is even working.

IDK what the colors are for the wires at the switch...yet.



Goat

 

[Old Goat]

I did an Edit in one of the above posts. the Dang splice connectors, especially one, is leaking. Drip...Drip...Drip... and a big wet spot under the cab. Couple others are wet when I run my glove under them.
When you put them together, they have a click when seated.
I did a splice 2 1/2 years ago, and has worked great. so IDK.

I noticed the ends that fit onto the Fuel Senders, look like they were heated and pushed onto the plastic barb end.
So I used my heat gun to warm the end of the tube, then tried to push on a Brass barb fitting, got it too hot and the plastic just folded up. GRRRR.

Headed down to Napa and bought 12ft of 5/16 and 12ft of 3/8 hose, along with 2 3/8 and 2 5/16" double barb steel fittings. $72...Yikes. Said Gates hose, made in Mexico.
Isn`t anything made in this country?

Guy behind the counter said to heat the plastic tube in hot water, and then push it on. How do you heat the sections in the frame behind the tank?
I`ll practice with a couple pieces to see how/if it works.

In the mean time I think I can push the tube into the rubber hose, spray on some silicone and pray.
Couple hose clamps and call it good.

Hope tomorrow is a more productive day.


Goat

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

I haven`t got that far into it yet. I took out the 4 screws that hold the heater controls to the Dash. And the switch is part of it.
Now iam not sure how to access the switch. or turn the assy. I want to remove the switch to see if it is even working.

IDK what the colors are for the wires at the switch...yet.



Goat

Haha, still having issues with my selector. I hope this is the weekend I solve it. I know for certain my short is between the steering column and up. Did you say the switch is tied into the heater control panel under the radio?
My plan is to re-run the POS NEG wire from the switch to the selector if I can figure out how to route it through.

Never-Have-I-Ether

 

[Old Goat]

My truck is an 86, so where the heater controls are under the radio, there is the 2 sliders for temp, Def, Floor, mix etc...
on each side is a toggle switch. left one is for the Blower Motor, an the right one if for the FSV.
Later years I think moved the switch to another location. At least some of the YT Vids I saw, and some were on F150`s.

From the FSV to the toggle switch is a Yellow/White wire.
This wire send the signal from the front or rear tank when you flip the toggle.
Inside the valve is a little motor about the size of 1/2 of your thumb. It rotates and moves a small metal thingy to line up with the proper contact pin for the Y/B or B/Y wire for the proper tank.
Y/B Rear
B/Y Front.

Go up to Post#6 and the Y/T Vid shows the wire colors.
Your truck is a different year might be different colors, IDK.

The Red wire I believe is Power and B/W is ground.

I got frusrated messing with this stupid thing, I finally just ran supply and return straight from the 38 gallon rear tank to the engine and back.

I decided to use the front tank as a supply tank to transfer fuel to the rear tank when the rear gets down below 1/2.
400+ miles and Iam 1/2 or below.

I ran the front tank to a Facet Duralift pump I mounted under the hood. Not wired in yet but all mounted and plumbed.
Need to add a pressure switch so when it empty`s the tank and pressure drops it kills the pump.
Another thing,if Iam driving and use the pump, I need a Hobbs switch connected to the oil gallery on the engine. If I get in a wreck and the engine dies, it kills the Pump.
haven`t figure this all out yet.

I removed the 4 screws for the AC/Heat slider thing to get to the toggle switch. well it has to be pushed back into the dash, and hits something. So that is where I stopped with that for the time being.
Couple other projects came up and this got slid back a bit.

Iam thinking of running the 2 wires for the tanks straight to the Toggle Switch, and do the switching there for the gauge. IDK maybe that will work?

I probably should have just bought one of the Chicom valves off E-Bay and been done with it, but why not make something simple complicated, no fun in that.

I pulled the bed off to make access easier, 3rd time it`s been off, getting good at it.
With where Ford mounted the FSV behind the front tank and the frame, I decided to move it a foot forward, then just splice a few of the plastic fuel lines....right? Read up on YT how to do it etc... warm the line and push it all together....etc....
I ran rubber hose from the front tank to the Electric pump, and rubber hose to the rear fill tube for the transfer.

It`s plastic from the rear tank up to where the FSV was and spliced in some rubber.

I`ll get back on this and later to finish it up and post the results.
At least for now, Iam not marking my territory from fuel leaking out of the front tank.

Goat

 

[Jesus Freak]

I've decided to give up on the electric fuel selector valve. I saw how the @AcIdBuRn02ZTS guy did 3way manual valves and I'm sold, especially with my WMO stuff.

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

I have a 1993, thanks for the year model clarification. I was gonna say what monkey wiring is this?

I cleaned my ground at the rear bumper and also cleaned the ground from the FSV. I had moved mine back to behind the shock for my Holley pump and filter bracket.

Where the chassis harness exits the cab and goes under follows the frame, I disconnected that entire harness. Flipped the FSV switch and the fuse still blows. If I understand correctly this means the short is in the cab wiring harness?

New switch. Blow is not consistent, blows 33% of the time switch is flipped. Maybe I should keep record the tank it's blowing on. Out of fuses and ordering more tonight. May replace both FSV wires if I know it's a straight shot from the switch to the FSV. Just going to run new wires, the dash/steering column has to be pulled to access the wires. They're visible but inaccessible behind the steering column, big pain in the

I'd love a 6 way valve but the way my e-fuel pump and bracket is I would have to place it by the bed somewhere. Want to use my FSV if I can for WMO.

Never-Have-I-Ether

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I've decided to give up on the electric fuel selector valve. I saw how the @AcIdBuRn02ZTS guy did 3way manual valves and I'm sold, especially with my WMO stuff.

When I cave up, I had already bypassed the FSV so, to me, it was a no brainer to use a transfer pump. I don't regret it one bit. The manual valves seemed to be too complicated as well to me.

 

[Jesus Freak]

When I cave up, I had already bypassed the FSV so, to me, it was a no brainer to use a transfer pump. I don't regret it one bit. The manual valves seemed to be too complicated as well to me.

It's no more complicated wiring a fuel selector valve. It's only quantum physics.