Diesel Power's Project 300 IDI Build Up Part: 2

[87-F-250]

Hey Oilburners here is a Diesel Power IDI update:

(Note: I tried looking for the old post Part 1 to see if anyone said anything more but couldn't find it.)

So here is the new post on Diesel Power

Right now I'm cleaning the engine block and looking at it a lot. Trying to decide what's next.

For example should I replace the cam bearings? Anyone know of what tool I should use for this? Speaking of special tools Tork Teknology was interested in IDI's after I told him about how awesome they are and everyone wants one. He is a tool maker and can make anything we want.

Also I had a meeting with ARP's Chris Raschke and he said I need to bring my 7.3L to Ventura and get it measured for bolts and studs. They were thinking of offering a complete kit or be able to sell them individually.

Why I Drive an IDI

In the June issue we feature Alex Nine's Budget Prerunner its a stock Turbo IDI. I think it looks cool and is what I wanted to do to Project 300.

I mounted my centrifuge to the engine and plan on routing the 1-inch hose to to a bung welded on the plate that covers the injection pump bolts. The bracket that came with the Dieselcraft kit mounts to the driver side bolt that hold the aluminum injection pump housing on. This way I can get rid of the air pump. I also plan on adding a bypass filter FS-2500

The crankshaft and heads are at the machine shop.

King Engine bearings said they would supply the bearings.

I'm looking for some turbo connecting rods since they have bigger wrist pins right and are stronger? Anybody have a source for cheap?

I've got an AirDogII pump and Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge. I plan on removing the bed and making a good fuel system. Maybe a better transfer valve too for the two tanks? And a Floscan for testing?

What is the best piston to use?

 

[FordGuy100]

Some are already running ARP studs in 7.3 IDI's. Russ can chime in as he was the first to do it.

 

[87-F-250]

I heard they were about 1/4-inch too long? Or do they have an exact match if I called in and asked for them? Or do you have to tell them the part #?

I'd like to get some main bearing studs so I'll have to bring the block down there for that anyways.

 

[rjjp]

On the question of the camshaft, contact typ4.

 

[icanfixall]

I really don't feel the mains need studs. I have never heard of anyone pushing a crank out of the mains... Ken did have an issue with a crank in a 6.9 pushing out the bottome end but..... He was making way more power than was streetable. I think he had a 16 to 1 cr and it required almost a complete can of starting fluid to get it to lite off.....The typ4 cam is about all thats available for our engines although a member from Vegas found a shop that could grind us anything we wanted... For $1800.00..... Way out of our league.....I also recall Dragrag was looking into a cam maker but thats not happening for one reason or another..... I think it was too costly also but don't really recall.. The studs from ARP are not designed for our engines but they fit. They do stand up about 1/4 inch to far. I had some issues with the deep socket grounding off the top threads unless I maintained the correct alignment socket to nut.... They are a nice addition to our engines. They are 200,000 psi where a new stock bolt is only 153,000 psi....The stud part number is AR7.000-1lb for a 1/2x7.00 stud broached. The 12 point nuts ar ARN12-1 and the special flat hardened washers is ARW78N.... These studs are not a kit item... They are a bulk stock item so I'm told....

 

[87-F-250]

Thanks for all the help... again. I'll be sure to mention Oilburners.net as my #1 source.

Any recommendations for exhaust valve seats?

I contacted Typ4 for a cam.

 

[IHDiesel445]

A standard cam bearing tool will do the trick. It's basically a slide hammer with an expandable collar. I have one from when I used to do automotive machine work and they are NOT cheap. Your machine shop should do it for a minimal fee when they clean your block. IIRC, changing the cam bearings and freeze plugs were included in the price of hot-tanking and cleaning.

I used the ARP head stud kit as well, and they are indeed about 0.250" too long, but no interference issues.

You have definitely come to the right place for IDI information! Lots of no-bull knowledge here from some great folks. Another good source is Hypermax Engineering. Those guys have still got a lot of "goodies" for these engines on the shelf, and their product support is great.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

i got qouted 240 bucks i belive to dip my block, mag it, and install new cam bearings and freeze plugs. isnt to bad.

 

[Drew2010]

iirc, arent the freeze plugs in these motors stainless? I remember there being a thread talking about how the cheap brass plugs will never hold up... Also that you have to have a certain rotunda or otc tool to install them.
Found this about freeze plugs also
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22387

Also its kind of cool that you are here getting some "real" knowledge for your truck. lol

 

[Dieselcrawler]

yes, you need to reinstall the correct stainless plugs with the correct instalation tool.

 

[Agnem]

Sure is great to read Jason's articles in Diesel Power. Jason, I have an FS-2500 on the Moose Truck, and you can see my install here.... http://rides.webshots.com/album/34038202TzIZxC

 

[hesutton]

Jason, Great to see the build getting going!!! Again, ask away, we'll do our best to help out. You have a PM and an email buddy. Plus, I'd go with the Hypermax C-rings like Eric (IHDiesel445) did on his build.

Heath

 

[IHDiesel445]

On the freeze plugs... I was told by Hypermax that if you're turning any serious RPMs, and making power numbers substantially over stock, these engines will spit out the freeze plugs. They had to use expandable rubber plugs. Which, by the way are not your typical freeze plugs. They are welch plugs (concave shaped discs) vice the traditional cup style freeze plugs.

On my build, I used the rubber plugs on the sides, and expandable brass on the rear two. The brass ones are available at Napa Auto. Part Number BK 6004025. Couldn't find 'em anywhere else.

 

[Agnem]

That's pretty weird, but I'd trust Hypermax to know. I hate to ask, but is this due to block twisting, or just crazy water flow?

 

[87-F-250]

Nice install on the filter Mel. That space is a nice place to mount stuff. That is where I put my water methanol pump.

The 7.3L I picked up was an old U-Haul truck so I think the injection pump was turned way down. It came with a U-Haul vacuum pump bracket. Still I want a serpentine belt system. So I could give this improved bracket away if someone wants it.

It's good to share and borrow parts the barter system

The truck came a book that tells all the stuff that's been done to it. Including 4 transmissions, glow plug harness, an injector, new heads, and etc.

When I pulled the pistons out the cylinder walls were nice. And then I forgot to spray one down when it sat while I wrote other stories. A little surface rust was taken out with a 3 stone honing tool. I got a flex hone coming.

There was no ridge at the top and no scratches. All the bearings looked good.

So this way I will save a little money not getting the block machined. Anybody have a freeze plug installation tool. I know someone who'd like to improve it and make his own.

As for the block spitting freeze plugs I'm a little concerned. At first I want modest power but I'll probably add nitrous to it later or something risky like that. Push it a little more and more...

So I was thinking about filling the bottom of the block with Hard-blok. The non cooler side will be easy but the other side might require two stainless steel tubes inserted in the water passages so the oil cooler will still cool. This way the freeze plugs can't pop.

I wonder if anyone makes a bedplate for the bottom end? Maybe this is a little over the top but it'll be fun. Trial and error. At least our engines are cheaper than the new ones. I could probably wreck 10 perfectly good IDIs (and be happy as a pig in dirt) for the price of wrecking one Duramax.