79jasper
Chickenhawk
I mean the knock is likely from air intrusion. I think multiple things are going on.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Did I just have an injector stick?
- Thread starter BrianX128
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This is what it did. 20 seconds I pulled over let off the throttle and it idled fine and went away.
Wouldn't this have to be air intrusion pre return line though? I've hopefully made the chances of that almost 0 because I deleted the water separator and have it going tank to facet pump to fuel filter to ip. Even if I had some air intrusion in my return lines [which at least aren't visibly leaking] would that really cause something like the knock in my video?
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Yes, it would have to leak air in pre-facet pump. After that, fuel leaks out not air in.
It's just weird when it sits and idles there's no smoke like bad injectors but I can almost here one faintly clattering more than the others. I tried cracking them loose to see if it went away with a certain one this morning but it's too faint of a noise to really notice definitively whether it's one or another. I just don't wanna throw parts at it but I think I should at least put new injectors in it.. and of course r&d is currently out of stock of injectors..
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Go down the 'fix air leaks pre lift pump' route right now, replace injectors later.
There isn't even a lift pump on it. It's got a facet electric pump running straight from the tank. Already bypassed the water separator. I have a mechanical gauge on the fuel filter head and I always have at least 7psi there.
Just for kicks I put a new fuel filter on and filled it with some power serve fuel additives and dumped the entire rest of the jug in the tank. Let it run for 3-4 minutes and I'm gonna let it sit while i run around for a couple hours. Of course after loosening my injector caps to try and hear the knock now 3 of them are leaking that weren't before.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Only while it's running. Lol
A facet is a lift pump......
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True. I mean either way if I know I have constant fuel pressure at the filter head outside of replacing injectors what would you guys suggest I do?
Put a clear hose in after the fuel filter and see if you have any bubbles in the fuel
Hmm. I went to do that but then the return line that goes from cylinder 1 won't have a home cause it routes back up to a nipple on the hard line coming from the fuel filter and I don't have a spare return line cap with only one output.
Soooo.. Not to double post but I think everyone is on to something. I went around for a drive today after doing the whole let something sit in the fuel filter ip and injectors trick again. Seemed like it cleared things up and then as I was climbing a grade the knock showed up out of nowhere. It was so strong I could let my foot entirely off the throttle and it kept me going at about 1800rpm until I settled on flat ground and it went away.
I did the same route again and the same thing happened at the same spot. Doesn't seem like a coincidence. I went around a third time and it happened there again and one smaller hill to a lesser extent.
So, to confirm my theory when I got to dads place he has a steep driveway. I parked the truck nose down first and revved it up a bunch and it just sounded like an idi, nothing weird. I then turned the truck around and did the same thing which was probably dumb. First rev nothing happened but second rev he caught hold of "the issue" and revved up to 3500. I coasted backwards in neutral but the revving wasn't stopping so I just shut the truck off and slowly released the clutch to help kill it. It still ran (actually firing not just spinning) for two seconds even with the key off. I took a breath and walked around the house and coasted my way back to flat ground and started it up and after it got the bubble sorted out it was back to just idling like an idi again.
So yeah. Everyone on the same opinion that I probably have air after all of this right? Don't worry I have a few more questions before I take my next steps. One is do I still need the return line in the following picture going up to the fitting on the IP? Not my truck either just trying to get this typed up.
And also if I can delete it how does one hook a clear line from there to the inlet of the IP? I'd assume putting a npt to hose barb fitting up by the fuel filter is easy enough but what do you do for the back of the IP on the inlet side?
I also think after getting back from the disaster test that my biggest point of air intrusion is at the back of the return lines where the two banks of return lines and the big metal return line from the ip all connect in the back. I poked and prodded at that area and could hear hissing pretty easily. I'm just going to replace all of the return line caps and orings as well but anything special I should do back in that area? I think I still have a bag with two olives somewhere in my parts drawer downstairs.
Also any reason I can't go get a return line kit at the parts store if they have one in stock? I'm off today and tomorrow and want to get as much of this work done as I can before another stretch run starts at work and I'm rather demoralized with my purchase of this truck. I think it will still end up being a good truck for me, but it's very frustrating that the only day it drove issue free was my initial test drive and long drive home in it and now it's breaking left and right.
I did the same route again and the same thing happened at the same spot. Doesn't seem like a coincidence. I went around a third time and it happened there again and one smaller hill to a lesser extent.
So, to confirm my theory when I got to dads place he has a steep driveway. I parked the truck nose down first and revved it up a bunch and it just sounded like an idi, nothing weird. I then turned the truck around and did the same thing which was probably dumb. First rev nothing happened but second rev he caught hold of "the issue" and revved up to 3500. I coasted backwards in neutral but the revving wasn't stopping so I just shut the truck off and slowly released the clutch to help kill it. It still ran (actually firing not just spinning) for two seconds even with the key off. I took a breath and walked around the house and coasted my way back to flat ground and started it up and after it got the bubble sorted out it was back to just idling like an idi again.
So yeah. Everyone on the same opinion that I probably have air after all of this right? Don't worry I have a few more questions before I take my next steps. One is do I still need the return line in the following picture going up to the fitting on the IP? Not my truck either just trying to get this typed up.
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And also if I can delete it how does one hook a clear line from there to the inlet of the IP? I'd assume putting a npt to hose barb fitting up by the fuel filter is easy enough but what do you do for the back of the IP on the inlet side?
I also think after getting back from the disaster test that my biggest point of air intrusion is at the back of the return lines where the two banks of return lines and the big metal return line from the ip all connect in the back. I poked and prodded at that area and could hear hissing pretty easily. I'm just going to replace all of the return line caps and orings as well but anything special I should do back in that area? I think I still have a bag with two olives somewhere in my parts drawer downstairs.
Also any reason I can't go get a return line kit at the parts store if they have one in stock? I'm off today and tomorrow and want to get as much of this work done as I can before another stretch run starts at work and I'm rather demoralized with my purchase of this truck. I think it will still end up being a good truck for me, but it's very frustrating that the only day it drove issue free was my initial test drive and long drive home in it and now it's breaking left and right.
Brian,
Just keep plugging at it. When we bought the 88, it had to be started with ether and a jump. Before I went to bed that night, it started with the key and only ether when cold. Now, over the last couple of months, the POS metal actuator has broken, we have to unhook the batteries to de-power the truck. It was being borrowed for a couple days, and one of the heater hoses started leaking, and fixing that, the heater core broke. It was not at home, so I bypassed the heater core and must have bumped the returns on the passenger side with the heater hose, now they all leak like a sieve...... so, the oldest son who was driving this, just picked up a 91 Chevy K2500 TBI 350. So the 88 gets to hold down the driveway until I get everything to fix everything..... glow plugs, column, etc.....
Hey, even my beloved 07 P71 showed its ass the day I bought I. I bought it used from a small dealer, As-Is, no warranty, but with an understanding if anything major happened in the first few days, come back and we will see what we can work out. I took delivery of the car at ~11:00, and by ~18:00 the transmission had gone out. He had the transmission rebuilt, and gained a loyal customer...... so s**t happens,
Just keep plugging at it. When we bought the 88, it had to be started with ether and a jump. Before I went to bed that night, it started with the key and only ether when cold. Now, over the last couple of months, the POS metal actuator has broken, we have to unhook the batteries to de-power the truck. It was being borrowed for a couple days, and one of the heater hoses started leaking, and fixing that, the heater core broke. It was not at home, so I bypassed the heater core and must have bumped the returns on the passenger side with the heater hose, now they all leak like a sieve...... so, the oldest son who was driving this, just picked up a 91 Chevy K2500 TBI 350. So the 88 gets to hold down the driveway until I get everything to fix everything..... glow plugs, column, etc.....
Hey, even my beloved 07 P71 showed its ass the day I bought I. I bought it used from a small dealer, As-Is, no warranty, but with an understanding if anything major happened in the first few days, come back and we will see what we can work out. I took delivery of the car at ~11:00, and by ~18:00 the transmission had gone out. He had the transmission rebuilt, and gained a loyal customer...... so s**t happens,
I'm trying to. Can't get a return line kit here for a couple days so I'm doing the 4 olives in the meantime.
That one was easy.
This one was junk and it's been replaced but the one on the other end is sticking on the nut and I can't pry it out.
Also these fittings at the back of the engine going back to the tank were apparently slowly leaking between the part with the two return nipples and the part the hose back to the tank would connect with. I'm gonna assemble it all on the bench and clean the threads and not on the part with the olive but the other I'm gonna use dreaded pipe tape there.
You must be registered for see images attach
That one was easy.
You must be registered for see images attach
This one was junk and it's been replaced but the one on the other end is sticking on the nut and I can't pry it out.
You must be registered for see images attach
Also these fittings at the back of the engine going back to the tank were apparently slowly leaking between the part with the two return nipples and the part the hose back to the tank would connect with. I'm gonna assemble it all on the bench and clean the threads and not on the part with the olive but the other I'm gonna use dreaded pipe tape there.
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