Decided to rebuild the IDI

[IDIn_It]

That would cause it to be all in the valve cover and CDR valve?

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

So i came to a conclusion that i should go ahead and rebuild the IDI. it has coolant loss, oil leaks, etc. I got the truck running again and drove it maybe 30 miles total every since i had it maybe 5 months now. It ran strong but problems started showing up.

have you done a compression test yet?

 

[IDIn_It]

Nah I havent. Should I go ahead and do it before I remove it to check for cracks or anything before I rip into it? Weather has been kinda crappy so I haven't been able to do anything lately

 

[fsmyth]

http://mid-atlanticema.org/wp-content/uploads/93-94-7.3-IDI-Turbocharged-Diesel-Engine.pdf

THANK YOU!!!
this is the kind of thing that makes wading through these threads worthwhile
<als>

 

[IDIn_It]

finally found a 4200lb cherry picker to pull the engine with but having an issue with getting it out. I removed all the bolts from the transmission, engine mounts (mounts are still on the engine), dipstick tube, and starter. I got the engine to move past the dowel pins but that's all. Something is stopping me from getting it all the way out. i pulled and pulled and nothing happens. I have the transmission supported by a 2 ton floor jack. What am i doing wrong? truck is an automatic.

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[TahoeTom]

The motor mounts have two studs that go through the adapter plates on the front cross member. The usual way is to remove the nuts from below the cross member. The adapter plates should have four bolts through the cross member, two up high and two lower down. I see you have removed the two top bolts from the adapter. I'm nor sure if taking the engine out with those plates attached to the motor mounts is a way to do it, but to reinstall those plates need to be on the cross member. The oil filter needs to come off if it is still on. While you are at it there is usually a ground strap on the back of one or both heads going to the firewall, as well as the two ground straps in front to the batteries. Mine has a smaller ground lower front from block to frame.

 

[IDIn_It]

The motor mounts have two studs that go through the adapter plates on the front cross member. The usual way is to remove the nuts from below the cross member. The adapter plates should have four bolts through the cross member, two up high and two lower down. I see you have removed the two top bolts from the adapter. I'm nor sure if taking the engine out with those plates attached to the motor mounts is a way to do it, but to reinstall those plates need to be on the cross member. The oil filter needs to come off if it is still on. While you are at it there is usually a ground strap on the back of one or both heads going to the firewall, as well as the two ground straps in front to the batteries. Mine has a smaller ground lower front from block to frame.

I took out the two bolts that's under the cross member and the engine mounts (upper and lower). At first i took the two bolts out and had no luck moving the engine so i took the ones off of the adapter plate. All grounding strap bolts have been taken off. Didn't take off the oil filter i will make sure to do that tomorrow. Is the oil filter going to hit the cross member from the engine shifting forward?

 

[TahoeTom]

I don't think the oil filter will clear the cross member, so it has to go.
I'm not an auto trans guy, but have you removed the bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate?

 

[cpdenton]

I have pulled the starter off in the past too. That and the oil filter. Filter will not clear the crossmember for sure.

If I remember right, I had to pry pretty hard between the engine mount and the adapter plate. Lots of grime had it stuck good.

 

[BDCarrillo]

In several autos you can take the torque converter off with the engine... Not sure with the IDI... The converter is pretty deep, 7-9" or so. Just have to be careful to get the motor up high enough to clear the cross member and be able to pull forward that much. You can ****** it up by lifting the engine too high and not supporting the trans well enough.

I'd unbolt it and slide it back as far as possible. You could also be binding up the TC on the input shafts...

 

[laserjock]

I had the same problem on mine. Ended up unbolting the motor mount off the driver side I think to let it rock enough to get it broke loose. I did pull the starter but not the oil filter. I had the whole front clip off though so I had more room to manuever it.

 

[Sorro71]

I've just pulled my engine out a while back and refitted it early this week. When I pulled it I separated the torque converter from the flex plate as there's not a lot of room between the deep part of the sump and the front cross member. I also took the starter and oil filter off and had the whole front clip off. I had a lot of trouble removing an engine once. I'd forgotten to undo the exhaust. That was over 20 years ago and I still reminded of it on occasion.

 

[jaluhn83]

I'd guess torque converter.

That being said, I'm not sure if you can pull the engine without dropping the trans off first. I've always removed the trans and left it sitting on a jack or pulled the engine and trans together. (possible, but have to be able to angle it pretty good) Might also be the the engine or trans isn't balanced right and it trying to twist and is jamming stuff up.

I would pull the trans back clear of the engine and then try to pull the engine out.

Other than that, do a very though check for anything still connected or hitting - should be pretty easy to see that there's nothing still connected.

 

[IDIn_It]

So I finally got around to getting the motor out (about 2 Months ago) and today I started tearing into the engine. I pulled the passenger head off and found out why I was loosing coolant. The head gasket failed right at the thermostat which caused water to enter cylinder number 1. I've searched high and low for part numbers for a 7.3idi turbo head gasket and cannot find one. All I can find is part numbers for the N/A 7.3. I have pictures on the condition of the head, cylinders, and pistons. Any help is appreciated.

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[cpdenton]

After they came out with the factory turbo engine, all the new head gaskets you can buy are now the right spec. They have all been updated to meet that engine.

Buy any head gasket set for a 7.3 and you are good.

This has my vote as the victor reinz gaskets were what international used.

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-...w_p_img_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KS5YVK398618SY4ENR0