Core plug driver

[Frstdiesel]

Well, I've decided I would make an attempt at "properly" installing the core plugs on my 6.9 block.
The machine shop that did my block work and balance job installed the steel core plugs "with a ball peen hammer".
My local IH dealer said that's how they do it as well.
I couldn't find a tool to borrow so I made one out of material I had access to using my 1947 Montgomery Ward lathe. I figured I would only use it on this block then it would be in the bottom of the toolbox.
(Disclaimer, I am not a machinist I wouldn't make a pimple on a bad machinist's butt.)
So tonight I've completed the tool and tried it on a piece of pipe I machined the ID to 1.503".(same diameter as the core plug hole in the block).
I think it will work. Y'all take a look at the pics and critique the finished plug. I put a factory plug next to it that I removed from my block before I sent it to the machine shop.
Seeking yalls feedback.

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[Frstdiesel]

More pics

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[Booyah45828]

That's a neat tool, but if the block is still out of the truck, why don't you just cut it for the cup style freeze plugs? Those seem to be preferred/less likely to leak over the disc style.

 

[Frstdiesel]

Actually I did entertain that idea, I watched Justin's video and even bought a 1.5" hole saw to do it.
Maybe I'll experiment with that on the next project....

 

[WarNose]

I like it. Looks damn good from here.

 

[austin92]

What exactly is the reason we have to use a special tool for our freeze plugs? What happens if you just use a socket and hammer?


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[DrCharles]

Sometimes it works. Sometimes they leak. Or pop out.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Good attempt, you are near what is necessary. Plans have been posted here to make a copy of the OTC tool, as well.

#1 change suggestion: make the drive pin only as long as the holder. That is what the OTC tool does - for a reason.

#2 suggestion - I am guessing your holder is about 1.5 inches in diameter at the business end with a 1 inch hole for the drive pin. On that 1/4 inch margin all around, relieve the flat area to give you a 1/16 - 1/8 margin at the edge. That will put pressure where it will do the most good when you are tapping the driver. That means tap, not pound. The plugs need a little patience to spread out as they are deformed, 6-10 taps will do a better job than one mighty swing, and will only take a few seconds more.

Installation - use Hylomar as a flexible sealant. Clean the surfaces well, making special effort to get anything out of the inside corner. That is where most of the sealing and holding happens. Use only the factory stainless steel plugs. Brass are too soft, will fail. Ask Icanfixall.

For future reference, I have an OTC tool that is available for the cost of shipping to and from.

 

[Frstdiesel]

What exactly is the reason we have to use a special tool for our freeze plugs? What happens if you just use a socket and hammer?


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A properly sized socket and hammer will work for cup style plugs, (per service manual) but not so much for the disk style plugs.
Thought about using this driver to properly seat the disk plugs the machine shop installed, but it would be my luck it would break the seal on the existing sealant then I would have a leak. Also they are steel and not stainless steel.
So I'll remove them apply sealant and reinstall stainless disk style plugs.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Icanfixall used to have a set of plates to bolt onto the block to check the installation. You can pressurize the system to check for leaks. He may still have it for rent or to borrow.

 

[Frstdiesel]

Sorry this is so wordy.
Thanks Knuckledragger, your recommendation is instead of a 1.5" diameter, make it 1.375 -1.4375?
Or just turn a chamfer to achieve that diameter? I saw drawings of the OTC tool and believe there is a 0.003 difference in length of the holder and the driver. (Driver is the shorter piece)
I made my driver length longer to achieve the same depth of indentation as the depth on the factory plug I removed. (As my disclaimer states I am not a machinist nor a professional mechanic, lol)
Also on the attached pic this installer appears to be a one piece unit. (Rotunda tool number 014-00305)
The protrusion appears to be quite significant. (that pic is from a 1987 service manual)
The practice plug I installed was a bear to drive far enough to bottom out the driver against the holder. I will try another practice using several taps, as hard as I had to hit it, i would be afraid I would break the block. Thanks

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[icanfixall]

Get the correct driver. Use only the factory freeze plugs that come in a package of 7.Use sealant. three plugs on drivers side. Two on back behind flywheel and two on passenger side. One on passenger is is for the block heater or..you can use a cup type plug to block that hole. You can pressure test the block by installing the heads with any gasket you make up. Then install all the other pieces using any gasket you make for the test. Do not test higher than 25 to 30 lbs because you might blow out a plug. That could hurt you. There really is no way to be sure these factory plugs are installed correctly. If Ford dealers don't have the factory stainless steel plugs try any Navistar truck dealer parts department. They are the original users of the idi engine. Sometimes you can find the factory sets on ebay.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Thanks Knuckledragger, your recommendation is instead of a 1.5" diameter, make it 1.375 -1.4375?
Or just turn a chamfer to achieve that diameter? I saw drawings of the OTC tool and

I will try to be more clear. The outside diameter (about 1.5) is critical, I was trying to get you to relieve (chamfer) the inside diameter to the drive pin, because you want to place pressure as far outboard on the plug as possible while you are tapping the drive pin. After chamfering, you should have tiny flat ring at the end of your tube that is about 1.500OD and 1.430-1.400ID. The rest of the surface should be chamfered (5-10 degrees is plenty) up to avoid the belly of the plug.

.003 short or long is well within a margin of usefulness, I measured mine and it came up flush. Seeing your pin sticking so far out was the reason for the comment.

I hope this clarifies my comments.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Also, the indentation is not critical, it is simply a byproduct of making the plug spread out to lock itself into the hole in the block. It could be flat, but is not usually.

 

[Frstdiesel]

Ok I got ya.
I made my drive pin like that only because I didn't have anything else to go by, other than the appearance of the original plug. So I tried to imitate that final appearance and depth of distortion. (My original plugs were tough to get out with a slide hammer.)
And looking at the installer that was pictured in the 1987 manual, mine looks real close to that one as it has a protrusion.
Thanks for your valuable input.