Comp valve spring shim?

[Thewespaul]

Stock springs will be fine for stock cam, upgrade if you plan on upgrading the cam, otherwise I wouldn't do it as the extra spring strength will only wear your valve train quicker.

 

[Macrobb]

So what I'm kind of getting from this is that for a stock motor it don't make a difference. If I add them it's for extra security if I don't the stock valve springs will be fine. I'm on the fence on replacing them or do u use the money for something else. Just for mind sake I'm going to be useing this motor to pull a 26ft max 5400lb travel trailer. From Wisconsin to Wyoming again. The stock motor/trans didnt like it. So this is where I'm trying to stay on a budget but replace the parts that common fail points?? Hope you all understand so I replace this or spend it here. Lol

What is on the truck now?

Basically, the general order of upgrading components on a truck(my view) is:
(starting with a NA 7.3):
1. Time the engine. Every single IDI I've found is out of time. As the parts wear, things get out of time.
If you replace the injection pump, you can use a proper timing meter to get 'proper' timing.
If not, you do it more or less by ear, because the timing curves will be off due to wear. You can make a shot IP run a truck just fine, though, with a bit of adjustment.

2. Check and/or replace injectors. Any good injector will work NA or Turbo. (You'll need to re-time things after this)

2.5 - Install gauges. EGT gauge is pretty important, especially when towing.

3. Turbo kit. This will actually make your power. You can always install a turbo planning on a bigger IP, but until you add more fuel, it won't give you more power.
I'm finding that the stock ATS/Ford kit and the Banks Sidewinder kit are both very similar in maximum power out. Somewhere around 250RWHP with correct fueling.
For more than that, you need an aftermarket(like something R&D makes) turbo.

3.5 - You'll want a boost gauge and an EGT gauge at this point.

4. IP. A *good* IP. I believe in R&D - idiperformance.com. If you plan to be NA, aim for a stock-style IP.
If you are aiming for a 'stock' turbo, install a RD2-90 or RD2-110(I really like my 110 + stock turbo setup - 250RWHP vs 125-ish NA)
If you are aiming for an all-out build with custom turbo, well, bigger is better.

5. Headstuds. I'm finding that a 7.3 can handle 15-ish PSI and 250RWHP without studs, but any more than that(or for piece of mind), add a set of studs.
On a 6.9, you want the studs before you turn up the fuel/put a bigger IP on.

6. Intercooler should help for towing, especially when running one of these stock turbos near the limits of what it can handle.
It might be better to just upgrade the turbo, though, to something that isn't beating the **** out of the air instead.

Notice how I didn't talk about internal engine components here?
Mainly because even a worn-out 7.3 can use the extra power out of a turbo and pump. You'll find that a worn-out engine will be a bit less powerful off idle, but handle just fine once you get some boost going, simply because the leaky rings can't leak enough to lose that massive charge. Also, higher revs give it less time to leak.

Once you do decide to rebuild an IDI, be very careful.
The valve clearances are tight on a stock cam, and even more tight on a Typ4 or R&D Stage1 cam. You have to make sure that your machine shop recessed the valves to spec(or deeper), or you'll end up with pistons whacking valves.
I've had *serious* trouble installing my Typ4 cam in an engine, which I later found out was simply due to two different machine shops not having a clue about valve recession specs when they replaced the valves with new ones for me. And one of these shops was a highly recommended local 'performance' shop!

If you are building for massive HP(over 350RWHP level), you also want to use upgraded connecting rods - 7.3 Powerstroke Forged rods can be used with minor modification.

 

[blaz4wd]

What is on the truck now?

Basically, the general order of upgrading components on a truck(my view) is:
(starting with a NA 7.3):
1. Time the engine. Every single IDI I've found is out of time. As the parts wear, things get out of time.
If you replace the injection pump, you can use a proper timing meter to get 'proper' timing.
If not, you do it more or less by ear, because the timing curves will be off due to wear. You can make a shot IP run a truck just fine, though, with a bit of adjustment.

2. Check and/or replace injectors. Any good injector will work NA or Turbo. (You'll need to re-time things after this)

2.5 - Install gauges. EGT gauge is pretty important, especially when towing.

3. Turbo kit. This will actually make your power. You can always install a turbo planning on a bigger IP, but until you add more fuel, it won't give you more power.
I'm finding that the stock ATS/Ford kit and the Banks Sidewinder kit are both very similar in maximum power out. Somewhere around 250RWHP with correct fueling.
For more than that, you need an aftermarket(like something R&D makes) turbo.

3.5 - You'll want a boost gauge and an EGT gauge at this point.

4. IP. A *good* IP. I believe in R&D - idiperformance.com. If you plan to be NA, aim for a stock-style IP.
If you are aiming for a 'stock' turbo, install a RD2-90 or RD2-110(I really like my 110 + stock turbo setup - 250RWHP vs 125-ish NA)
If you are aiming for an all-out build with custom turbo, well, bigger is better.

5. Headstuds. I'm finding that a 7.3 can handle 15-ish PSI and 250RWHP without studs, but any more than that(or for piece of mind), add a set of studs.
On a 6.9, you want the studs before you turn up the fuel/put a bigger IP on.

6. Intercooler should help for towing, especially when running one of these stock turbos near the limits of what it can handle.
It might be better to just upgrade the turbo, though, to something that isn't beating the **** out of the air instead.

Notice how I didn't talk about internal engine components here?
Mainly because even a worn-out 7.3 can use the extra power out of a turbo and pump. You'll find that a worn-out engine will be a bit less powerful off idle, but handle just fine once you get some boost going, simply because the leaky rings can't leak enough to lose that massive charge. Also, higher revs give it less time to leak.

Once you do decide to rebuild an IDI, be very careful.
The valve clearances are tight on a stock cam, and even more tight on a Typ4 or R&D Stage1 cam. You have to make sure that your machine shop recessed the valves to spec(or deeper), or you'll end up with pistons whacking valves.
I've had *serious* trouble installing my Typ4 cam in an engine, which I later found out was simply due to two different machine shops not having a clue about valve recession specs when they replaced the valves with new ones for me. And one of these shops was a highly recommended local 'performance' shop!

If you are building for massive HP(over 350RWHP level), you also want to use upgraded connecting rods - 7.3 Powerstroke Forged rods can be used with minor modification.

Thanks macrobb. It was just one of them things do I do it when I'm in here replaceing gaskets.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If you plan on upgrades in the future, then it may be a good idea. I've had a Moose JR from Conestoga Diesel for about three years and am finally getting around to rounding up all of the parts to put a turbo on. I bought it because I needed an injector pump and had plans for the turbo. Now I haven't put more than 15,000 miles on the truck since then either, but I did have to turn the fuel back twice and still can't push the throttle more than about 2/3 of the way down without a HUGE cloud of black smoke. I will be glad that the turbo's on and I will be installing the Comp 910 springs too.