CD-R replacement

mexicanjoe

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I believe my cdr my be beyond help. At partial throttle whilst coasting I see light blue exhaust.. is there any way to check or clean the cdr?
 

Clb

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Take a cruise thru the tech section, search cdr, pull it and drain\rinse it out
 

Jason1377

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Take a cruise thru the tech section, search cdr, pull it and drain\rinse it out

Not one post I seen in tech stickies says anything about a cdr I've been reading thruoth those
 

Thewespaul

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I believe my cdr my be beyond help. At partial throttle whilst coasting I see light blue exhaust.. is there any way to check or clean the cdr?
You can clean it out by flushing some clean diesel through it with it removed, but in most cases the rubber has deteriorated and it needs to be replaced to be back to its original condition.
 

jaluhn83

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You can try, but I doubt it'll change anything. The CDR really doesn't do anything but act as a safety shutoff to keep from pulling oil if you had a plugged air filter. It's setup to shut if you have a significant vaccum on the intake, as you would get with a plugged air filter, but in normal operation there's essentially no vaccuum in the intake, so it's just going to free flow - there's no regulating function like a PCV valve on a gasser since there's no manifold vaccum.

I'd guess valve guides/seals.
 

Macrobb

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... OK, first off, the CDR is just a safety. It's always open, basically. It won't affect smoke.
Secondly, these engines *burn* oil. As in, you can just plain run the engine on straight motor oil! Your blue smoke is NOT caused by worn rings, oil going through the cdr or anything else.
(I've run a motor that went through a quart every 50 miles. A custom filter on the CDR hose produced about 4oz of oil every 50 miles! Was there *any* blue smoke? No.)

Your blue smoke is due to retarded timing. Typically at least 6 degrees retarded. This happens when the IP/injectors wear out(usually you get a big jump in timing if the advance piston sticks in the retarded position, which can happen).

Fix the timing. Either replace the IP/injectors, or skip the IP gear 'forward' a tooth compared to the cam gear, if you can't replace the parts(this will net an extra 6 degrees of advance and make it drivable again, but your curve still won't be right).
 
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