Well i ended up tightning them to 65ft lbs so i cant imagine them coming loose. Iv almost got it back together all thats left is i need to know what the torque for the driveshaft bolts are and weather or not i need any locktite blue or red
Driveline straps torque is always the worst one to find. I usually settle at about 28ft-lbs as well.
Best way to find the torque is to find the thread pitch and look up a thread pitch torque guide for general fasteners. The straps just keep the driveline in place, all torque is applied rotstionally and pushes mostly against the pinion yoke.
So i just finished everything up and test drove it and WOW what a difference.It shifts so much easier and quicker, doesnt grind 2nd gear as bad. It doesnt shake like mad when in reverse or taking off in second. I floored it in 4th and 3rd and theres no slipping whatsoever. I then floored in from a dead stop in second then in first and theres no slip at all the clutch grabs and takes the power, it even spun the tires in first. All in all 10/10 would reccomend clutch to others
Glad it's working well for you. For some peace of mind, I have the same clutch, installed it when my dmf started rattling in 2014, and I've since then turboed my engine and still doesn't slip. Happy motoring!
Here's my experience. I first installed my Luk SMF kit in 2006. It's now in it's third vehicle, two trucks and a Bronco. That's everything including the clutch plate. I don't pull very often and, when I do, it's rarely heavy, but I've had very good longevity out of mine.
Been away a while. Heres the list of answers.
Single mass flywheel. DOES NOT use the bolt ring. As per the LUK instruction notes.
Flywheel to crank bolts 47 ft lbs.
PP bolts 43 ft lbs
Bellhousing I do 70ish Anything less they loosen.