Can I punch 1 hole only?

[SASKR]

Good day folks, I had the valve ticking top end clatter. Ended up pulling motor. # 7 piston scored up & scratches in cylinder wall. Compression on rest of the holes was about 420 PSI. #7 was 330PSI. NOW the 3000 dollar question. Can a person bore only 1 hole (#7) they think that 10 thousand over will clean it up. Or will a person end up popping all the holes to 10 over just to keep the power balanced? This engine already runs hot under load & I suspect 10 over will agrivate the problem. THX MUCH

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Cant do that. Atleast not with gas engines.
It unbalances the rotating assembly to much.
I suppose it could be done, but dont know how long the engine will last.

 

[Diesel JD]

How about a dry sleeve for just #7? A little more expensive than .010 over but it will let you use a standard piston and keep things much closer to balanced. Does your machine shop know how to do this? I would want a shop that knows their way around a dry sleeve and a diesel. You have to step the bore a little from my understanding so the sleeve doesn't fall out. This is the reason for the slight additional cost.

 

[sle2115]

Uh, I beg to differ with the gasser ney-sayors! Have seen MANY OEM installs with one cylinder bored bigger than the rest, anywhere from .005 to .015 and no problems. Not sure on a diesel, but would assume it would be fine as well. I have seen all major manufacturers do this and have owned two engines that when torn down, from cars purchased new by family members, had one or two cylinders oversized and both had a BUNCH of miles on them. Ask your machine shop. Problem is, the engine is going to have to be torn down to do it, so you might want to consider just doing them all. Not sure what oversizes are available anyway.

Oh, should mention that I worked in an engine machine shop for several years, that is probably why I have seen several.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Agreed, if a cylinder is bad from the factory they will overbore just the one. Probably more common in the past than it is now just because more of the manufacturing is computer controlled.

I used to work at Ford assembling the Duratec V6's. Sometimes 3 different sized pistons would go into the engine if that's what the bores required.

 

[typ4]

Unless you find a .010 nos ford piston all I have seen are .020 first oversize. I wanted to go 10 with mine but no go, and after tearing it back down to put in the new pistons after 10k I would make sure th others are within spec, or it will rattle., yea,yea I know they rattle anyway but I mean LOUD piston slap.
I got my brand new mahle pistons from an ebayer store , falconglobal in florida ..430.00 to my door.

 

[subway]

if you are going that far into the engine would it not be better to re-sleave just for the cavitation threat? i would hate to go that far put it together and need to again in 10k.

 

[yARIC008]

if you are going that far into the engine would it not be better to re-sleave just for the cavitation threat? i would hate to go that far put it together and need to again in 10k.

Heck, i've done that and had to go back the next day, not after 10k.

 

[icanfixall]

Your question has lots of possibility to it. First off the rest of the motor needs close inspection. The use and care the motor has seen will show up. Now if the rest of the pistons show no wear then I say sleeve one cylinder and rering the motor with bearings and go for it. This advice comes with warnings. If you can't use a micrometer then just bore it or sleeve it completely and be done with it almost forever. Done right the motor will last 500,000 miles, maybe longer with 3000 mile oil changes. Sure, something could happen like a champion or autolite glow plug tip burn off and you window the block but just don't use those glows. Beru are about the best and many members have used them so thats the evidence that stands up. Ebay has a complete motor that was never run and all the parts are new and for sale. The block is not part of the sale but everything else internally to the motor is. Actually all the sheet metal and injection system is up for sale too. It looks like the motor came out of a bus or dump truck. The oil pan has a baffel in it like the psd motors have but no hole in the side of the pan for a sender. Give it a look see. Maybe you can buy everything you need....

 

[SASKR]

THX MUCH oh IDI assembly of wisdom!!! I will take a look @ Ebay. Also I am running the stripped block into town for the local diesel shop to give it the hairy eyeball. The boys @ Champion Diesel send all their machine work to Saskatoon. They trust the folks @ DSG (Diesel Service Group) far before anyone local. If she need to go out for machining I think I'll run her up there my self. It's about 2 1/2 hours one way. Then I can talk to the machine shop one on one for a better feel of what is going to be done. I am going to drop my rad off for cleaning tomorrow as well. Is there a higher capacity water pump available or any other tricks I can employ while we are completely taken apart? THX again.

 

[sle2115]

Unless you find a .010 nos ford piston all I have seen are .020 first oversize. I wanted to go 10 with mine but no go, and after tearing it back down to put in the new pistons after 10k I would make sure th others are within spec, or it will rattle., yea,yea I know they rattle anyway but I mean LOUD piston slap.
I got my brand new mahle pistons from an ebayer store , falconglobal in florida ..430.00 to my door.

You can balance a .020 piston to be the same as a standard one. Also, I don't know that I would do it that way, just that it is done. I also saw a set of pistons on ebay that said .010, .020, .030 and .040 for the 6.9 engines some time ago. Now rather they were actually available and rather you could actually get one, is another story. I also don't think I would be to concerned about going up to .040 oversize. The 7.3 is substantially more IIRC.

Anyway, sounds like you are doing the right thing anyway.

 

[SASKR]

Hi de ho folks, Got the news from the machine shop on Fri. In their experience the left bank (oil cooler side) is prone to cavitation.The block needs #7 bored . They will only do the work if they sleeve all the left holes & #7. That's 5 sleeved holes. They seem reluctant to even inspect for cavitation, they automatically goto sleeving. I will be into it for $4500 for machine work ,pistons, bearings, gaskets & lifters. This gives me a truck box of parts & an assemble it yourself project. Reuse camshaft, oil pump, valve covers & oil pan. Now I've gone to Ford, they have a "REMAN" engine listed . I can order thru work to get the discounts, cost $5276. Their "long block stripped" gives me a loaded short block plus front & rear covers with seals installed, oil pump & pickup, cylinder heads & valve train, & finally oil cooler. The Ford engine also comes with a " proof of dynamometer horsepower & torque supplied with each shipped engine". Sounds like they dyno the engines before making them available. The next day (Sat) I went to International. Get this I can get one of their "RENEWED" engines for $4950. It comes with all the Ford long block stripped components as well as injection nozzles, vibration damper, oil pan & valve covers. The IH parts person was unable to tell me if these engines were "run up" & had a dyno sheet provided.They will make a call on Monday to find out. Both places provide 12 month, unlimited mileage warranties. I like the price of the IH engine & the dyno sheet from Ford. Any & all comment are requested & appreciated . I want to get things on the move by the end of next week. THX Rick

 

[Diesel JD]

Personally I think I'd go with the IH reman or go all in and get all 8 holes on your current block sleeved. I don't blame them about not wanting to inspect for caviatation, it is a tricky and mysterious phenomenon. The dyno fact sheet wouldn't mean anything, especially since you are going to install all kinds of Hi perf. goodies on the engine anyway. I don't know if you're a novice engine builder(or like me, have yet to build one) or an experienced home mechanic like some here. If the former, and/or you need the truck on the road soon, buy one of the reman. blocks and don't look back...if you are on the experienced side, build your current block like you want it, buy a new oil pump, reseal the oil cooler and all the other new parts you mentioned...and make sure it is as you want it. Good luck with it whatever you chose...are you going to put the DPS fuel system back on the rebuilt/new block?

 

[SASKR]

Howdy folks, I took a quick ( 4hrs round trip) blast to look @ a 94 F250. The ad in the paper said "rebuilt engine, blown tranny" . Now the goods, truck has 260K on it now. The PO says the engine may have 10K on before the tranny let go. However that was 2 yrs ago. The truck has sat since 2005. Put a wrench to the crank & it turns over but no coolant in the rad. Some sort of electrical fire in & around the starter. Jumper wired the starter & put fresh batts in only get a "click". Sounds like the solenoid is trying but the starter won't turn her over. PO said engine rebuilt due to spun bearing. He is looking for the invoice on the engine job. Now this part really makes me go "HMMMM" The owner said the turbo was pooched so he left it off & went back to a NA set up. He wants $3000 for the whole truck. Farm truck, so body, glass & tires are well worn.

P.S. I will not put the DPS gear back on this engine. I will sell the pump & injectors to cover some of my costs. Cheers Rick

 

[Exekiel69]

Now this part really makes me go "HMMMM" The owner said the turbo was pooched so he left it off & went back to a NA set up. He wants $3000 for the whole truck. Farm truck, so body, glass & tires are well worn.

Walk away from it.