C6 Finally Died

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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It is practically impossible to make a smooth shift with Ford manuals and hyd. clutch system. ...
I wouldn't say it's anywhere near impossible to make a smooth shift, unless you shift with your feet or something;Poke.
Seriously though, I am not trying to being a smart Alic, but I have never had trouble shifting smoothly and I just wonder what makes you say that?




Rock
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
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I wouldn't say it's anywhere near impossible to make a smooth shift, unless you shift with your feet or something;Poke.
Seriously though, I am not trying to being a smart Alic, but I have never had trouble shifting smoothly and I just wonder what makes you say that?




Rock
Yep. Like many other things, it's all in your technique.
 

spg

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If you can rebuild the trans yourself use a good rebuild kit with Raybestos, Borg Warner or Alto clutches and a TCI Transcat shift kit, A TCI deep aluminum pan, Towing torque converter, As big a cooler as you can fit on the truck with a spin on in line filter and you will have a long lasting transmission. If you need more information please contact me. Temp gauge is nice but if you do the above you probably don't need one.
 

quickster

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Yeah I was looking around wishing, but I didn't think it existed. Just heavy duty low stall converters.
 

Big Bart

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C6's are tough and often used for racing because they are so tough. So do not be concerned about a rebuild. There are still plenty of parts available for the rebuild process. Get a reputable shop to rebuild it and it will last for many years to come. (The older guys are good with these, younger guys have not likely rebuilt any or many of these.)

The bigger issue many face is a failing vacuum regulator valve. (VRV) which is the part on your injection pump with the vacuum lines. These are end of life. There is someone who suggests he has reproduced them out there, not sure about the life expectancy. There is also one they came up with for racing that uses a cable to a valve. The cable is tied to the injection pump and moves as you apply the throttle. So converting to a stick removes this obstacle, gets you 4 gears as I recal (VS 3 in a C6), and more control of your shifting.

As mentioned above doing what you can to lower the tranny temps via a bigger trans pan and tranny cooler will extend the life the second time around. But your radiator via the built in radiator cooler does cool the tranny fluid to 190 degrees.

You may also have to adjust your VRV when you put the tranny back in. If they put a new modulator or shift kit in you will likely need to adjust the VRV to get your shift point where you want it. You loosen the adjustment screws and move it a littl towards the cab and towards the radiator, tighten and go for a ride. Continue till you get the shift point you desire.

Good luck!
 

frankenwrench

overkill is under rated!
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I have 3 dead c6 jaspers. As well as a few engines from jasper. None of which has more than 55,000 miles on them. I wouldn't use jasper. They don't honor warranty, their rebuilds are junk, you are paying for a brand name these days. They aren't what they used to be. If you were in texas and close, I have a good c6 with torque converter I pulled about 6 months ago to install another zf5. That c6 shifted great and seemed to pull my gooseneck with my old ladies 4door 7.3 dually just fine.
 

264WSM

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Where are you? I have a C6 for a 4x4 and torque conv for $150. Help me pull it = $100. If you want the transfer case, 6.9NA and front axle, that's available too. $600 for the whole thing minus the rear axle and tool box. $1400 for everything!
 
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