ByPass Oil Systems

[wildman7798]

Curious how many of you run a true bypass oil filter system. I like the idea of moving to a Syn oil and extending the drain intervals, and like the results I have seen on paper from Puradyn on improving engine life. I read some fleet truck reports that were incredible on the drain intervals and the oil test results were impressive to say the least.

So is anyone using Puradyn? Also using the moisture removing heater that is part of their system? I also looked at AMSOIL's system, it seems that the PSD adapter will work on the IDI 1.5" 16 threads, also looks like a very good design. I am interested to see what we have for experience in this area.

 

[Wyreth]

Alot of us here, me included, have switched to the PS oil filter. It is a direct fit, and both increases the oil capacity, and filters down smaller to help the PS's HPOP injector system. I would think that since the filters interchange directly that a spin on bypass adapter for the PS would directly fit our trucks. Could be wrong tho.

Also there are a few members here with the AMSOIL bypass system, never seen mention of the Puradyn. I know Gary is looking for a Frantz bypass system, as they use TP for the filter element.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes. I want to install the Frantz bypass oil filter system. The feed line is an easy fit and the oil return will be into the chevy block off plate where the mechanical fuel pump was. Should be an easy set up. the feed line will be 1/8 inch braided stainless steel just like my turbo oil feed line is. Probably just going to buy another turbo oil feed line from Banks because its simple. Might look into what it may cost having it made but knowing its available from Banks helps.

 

[riotwarrior]

Well if the damn truck engine in the truck is as good as its supposed to be...it's getting a bypass and asap. Gotta reseal it first though won't be throwing oil out the pan or anywhere else for that matter.

Link to this puradyn product/s you are talking about would be very helpful.

 

[PwrSmoke]

I have a Racor ABS bypass with the 3 micron element installed. The feed hose can be attached to the rearmost oil gallery plug, just forward of the bellhousing area if you don't have an aftermarket turbo. If you do (as I do), there are two or three other gallery plugs just above the pan rail, near the filter mount and cooler. There is a built in port for return oil on the block. In MD apps it's used for oil return from the air compressor with air brakes but it's perfect for a bypass return as well. Look for an Allen plug just below the block deck on the front of the block, both sides.

I am running an 8000 mile OCI on conventional 10W30 HDEO oil at the moment and, subject to oil analysis, may go longer. This interval was after an overhaul too. I had particle testing and oil analysis done on the oil at 2000 miles and even though I had installed the 10 micron element, it was so low on contaminants that I decided not to do a post-overhaul oil change. The oil had exactly the same ISO cleanliness code as the ****** oil. Should be even cleaner now since I installed the 3 um filter when I did the oil analysis (you can use 3, 5 or 10 micron elements into the same housing).I installed the 10 micron because I was worried that after overhaul there would be a lot of particle that would plug the 3 micron filter soon.

Look here for more info: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj_FhHJa0Sk

Here is a shot of the system on my truck. I had posted a pic of he return port previously but I can't find it on my computer to post it again:

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[Wellused]

If you are going to have the pan off,put a oil temp gauge bung in it while apart.It will give you a good reason to drain that syn out and go with conventional.Your oil temps will be all over the place..spiking,falling..all at RAPID rates as the syn does shed heat well..but heats up very quickly also.No way rapid expansion/contraction can be good for these engines.I was given sev cases by local implement dealer to get it out of his shop(wont use it) for the same reason.Put it in everything I owned at the time including my play toy(451 low deck mopar) that had a temp gauge for oil..wow..all over the gauge..with conv..slow upwards in traffic..slow down temps as well.Not wanting to start an conv/syn thread war..but it is snake oil salesmanship.Our family owns a medium sized shop in N.Carolina that rebuilds many engines/yr for individuals and fleet owners..both diesel and gas.The shop says the majority of rotating ass failures are running syn.The area showing wear/damage is cam and main bearings(although brother says mostly mains) but like he said..they are a lot cleaner inside when your tearing them down.We just tore a 6bt down for the timing cover(p pump conv) I have known this engine for sev years.When we dropped the pan and dumped remaing oil..the Lucas additive(I realize not syn..but) had completely seperated itself from the oil.I dont think it is safe to dump anything except zinc and conventional in an engine.

 

[wildman7798]

If you are going to have the pan off,put a oil temp gauge bung in it while apart.It will give you a good reason to drain that syn out and go with conventional.Your oil temps will be all over the place..spiking,falling..all at RAPID rates as the syn does shed heat well..but heats up very quickly also.No way rapid expansion/contraction can be good for these engines.I was given sev cases by local implement dealer to get it out of his shop(wont use it) for the same reason.Put it in everything I owned at the time including my play toy(451 low deck mopar) that had a temp gauge for oil..wow..all over the gauge..with conv..slow upwards in traffic..slow down temps as well.Not wanting to start an conv/syn thread war..but it is snake oil salesmanship

I would have to strongly disagree with the assertions you make. I cannot attest as to how well it works in a 27 year old IDI like my truck but it is proven molecular technology. I certainly would never take the advice of an implement dealer when it comes to high performance oil. GM spent decades testing Mobil 1 before using it in all their Hi-Perf engines. There is a reason it is OEM oil for Corvettes and CTS Cadillacs and it isn't because it is $6 a quart. RedLine has an impeccable reputation in the Hi performance world as well. As far as rapid heat disapation or spiking that really is not an issue in my mind, staying away from 300 degrees F is all that really matters when it comes to an oil temp gauge. Rapid heating of an oil is a good quality as far as I can see. I am no oil expert but to call Syn snake oil is a little off base IMHO.

 

[wildman7798]

I do agree the lack and loss of zinc has caused serious problems. It is near impossible to break in a flat tappet cam today unless you buy and use the correct zinc additives. The lack of zinc in oil is not a direct correlation to Syn oil and as far as certain additives go... well now you are talking about snake oil, unless you know what you are buying and how they work together as a package.

 

[PwrSmoke]

I agree with the temp gauge idea if the pan is off. Had one on my 6.9 for a while but when it failed, it was a very unique unit, I never bothered to replace it because the oil temps were so low and stable on the 6.9L generally. I'm not a particular fan of synthetic oils, mainly from the return on investment POV, but both syn and conventional have nearly identical heat rejection rates so that's not the reason for wildly swinging oil temps in your engine. I've had oil temp gauges on most of my vehicles for 15 years and I haven't seen that on any of them, whether using syn or conventional. Oil temps usually rise and fall fairly gradually. The only thing notable is that oil temp is usually a bit lower with syn oils due to reduced friction... but it's not by all that much.

 

[idiabuse]

I would have to strongly disagree with the assertions you make. I cannot attest as to how well it works in a 27 year old IDI like my truck but it is proven molecular technology. I certainly would never take the advice of an implement dealer when it comes to high performance oil. GM spent decades testing Mobil 1 before using it in all their Hi-Perf engines. There is a reason it is OEM oil for Corvettes and CTS Cadillacs and it isn't because it is $6 a quart. RedLine has an impeccable reputation in the Hi performance world as well. As far as rapid heat disapation or spiking that really is not an issue in my mind, staying away from 300 degrees F is all that really matters when it comes to an oil temp gauge. Rapid heating of an oil is a good quality as far as I can see. I am no oil expert but to call Syn snake oil is a little off base IMHO.

All I am going to say about GM and Mobil1 is 6 Corvette Callaway's at the factory all had engine failure upper camshaft siezures, after finding the root cause, lack of lube at cold start All Chevrolet Corvettes where changed to Mobil1.

 

[idiabuse]

I have used bypass filtration with great results, 40,000 miles and 5 years on one oil change.
I use it now with my truck and would never run my engine without it.
I use an obsolete AMSOIL bypass filter on my truck, works great!

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

If you are going to have the pan off,put a oil temp gauge bung in it while apart.It will give you a good reason to drain that syn out and go with conventional.Your oil temps will be all over the place..spiking,falling..all at RAPID rates as the syn does shed heat well..but heats up very quickly also.No way rapid expansion/contraction can be good for these engines.I was given sev cases by local implement dealer to get it out of his shop(wont use it) for the same reason.Put it in everything I owned at the time including my play toy(451 low deck mopar) that had a temp gauge for oil..wow..all over the gauge..with conv..slow upwards in traffic..slow down temps as well.Not wanting to start an conv/syn thread war..but it is snake oil salesmanship.Our family owns a medium sized shop in N.Carolina that rebuilds many engines/yr for individuals and fleet owners..both diesel and gas.The shop says the majority of rotating ass failures are running syn.The area showing wear/damage is cam and main bearings(although brother says mostly mains) but like he said..they are a lot cleaner inside when your tearing them down.We just tore a 6bt down for the timing cover(p pump conv) I have known this engine for sev years.When we dropped the pan and dumped remaing oil..the Lucas additive(I realize not syn..but) had completely seperated itself from the oil.I dont think it is safe to dump anything except zinc and conventional in an engine.

No offense, but you cannot banish all the benefits of synthetics because of your limited personal experience. You've got to look at all the empirical data and combine that with the experience of yourself and others before condemning all but conventional oils. I have two buddies who do testing at Lubrizol, back in your home state of Ohio. They do nothing except testing for oil companies and OEM engine manufacturers. I've learned more from those guys than anybody else, and they are both big fans of sythetics/additive packages when applied properly.

Look at oil coking in a gasser turbo for instance. If you need a picture of my 2.3 turbo Ford with the exhaust manifold and hot side of the turbo glowing red, I'll be happy to send you one. If you aren't running synthetic in this type of application, you are running a very high risk of cooking the oil. When I replaced my oil feed line on my turbo, there was zero sludge in it. Every grenaded 2.3 turbo I've ever torn down died of oil starvation due to oil coking on the turbo oil feed line. I won't base all my loyalty to synthetic based on this single example, but I will not run anything but full synthetic in a 2.3 turbo.

Just my .02 worth.

 

[79jasper]

As to your original question about the psd spin on adapter, you got a link?

So far haven't seen the sandwich adapters, just the "relocation plates."

 

[Wyreth]

As to your original question about the psd spin on adapter, you got a link?

So far haven't seen the sandwich adapters, just the "relocation plates."

X2.

However, couldn't you split the the feed line from the relocation plate to the relocated filter head to also feed the bypass filter?

 

[wildman7798]

As to your original question about the psd spin on adapter, you got a link?

So far haven't seen the sandwich adapters, just the "relocation plates."

Here is the link. My understanding is the IDI is 1.5" x 16 thread - which shows same as PSD - they offer a whole kit for PSD or just the adapter P/N BK301 $69 - towards bottom of page. It's not that difficult to round up most of the parts to build your own I don't think. The kit price is pretty pricey.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/