Bricknose cab mount experience needed!!!

[sle2115]

I want to put a 2" lift on my 87 F250 Standard cab 4X4. What is the difference between the 80-86 and 87-91 body lift kits? I'm hoping the only difference is the bed cause I won't need that part of the kit anyway, but the 80-86 kits is half the price...just wondering if I can use it?

 

[freebird01]

it may be the bumper brackets...but as far as the cab and front clip are concerned they should be the same

 

[towcat]

it may be the bumper brackets...but as far as the cab and front clip are concerned they should be the same

I have yet to see a difference between the two too.

 

[sle2115]

My thoughts as well...can't figure what's the difference unless it is bed related, which I'm not lifting anyway, my bed is a flat bed on a hinge, with a hoist!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I want to put a 2" lift on my 87 F250 Standard cab 4X4. What is the difference between the 80-86 and 87-91 body lift kits? I'm hoping the only difference is the bed cause I won't need that part of the kit anyway, but the 80-86 kits is half the price...just wondering if I can use it?

The only reason I see for actually buying a "kit" is that the bolt lengths are already figured out for you.

Each pair of bolts are of differing lengths, some being not so long and others quite long.

The ones on my 1985 were all 7/16 coarse-thread, 7/16 x 14 ??I think?? .

If you are able to remove the bolts from one whole side and head to the hard-ware store at your leisure, you can simply buy the necessary bolts two inches longer.

If the old ones come out in good shape, you can even use some of the longer ones in place of the shorter ones and only need to buy two or maybe four new ones.

You can fabricate better spacers than you can buy.


If you have never messed with the two fore-most cab-mounts, the ones on each side of the radiator, they don't just screw out.

There is a second threaded sleeved washer that will put you into fits if you don't know how it comes apart.


Put plenty of knocker-loose on all the old bolts every day for a couple weeks before attempting removal and it will go a lot easier.



I used a genuine body-lift kit on my truck, mostly on account of I didn't have the luxury of the truck sitting idle while I made/bought what I needed.


I have had zero problems with the lift and would highly recommend anyone else to do it; but, my next plan of action is to un-rivet the mount brackets from the frame, make them four- or six-inches taller, and re-mount the cab to these raised brackets, sans the lift spacers.


I want to get it up off the engine a little more, plus have space below for a set of saddle-tanks, big truck style.

 

[Agnem]

Damon, most of us in Snow country have to get out the torch to get rid of those front bolts. They are usually pretty far gone. You can use the 80-86 kit, but once you get to a 92, then the steering shaft is handled differently, so you need the correct kit for that year.

 

[bike-maker]

Kind of off topic, but has anyone done a body lift with a fifth wheel hitch in the bed? Even possible?

 

[Diesel_brad]

Kind of off topic, but has anyone done a body lift with a fifth wheel hitch in the bed? Even possible?

Totally possible. Most 5 th wheel hitches have angle brackets come up from frame and samwich the bed between the brackets and the 5 th wheel. All you would need to do is make longer brackets or use spacers. I would make longer brackets.

Also. Make sure your overall bed height will not br an issue to clear the trailer

 

[bike-maker]

I installed my fiver hitch and it does have the angle brackets holding it to the frame. The increased leverage on those brackets made me a little nervous though. I guess if I go that route, I'll just make my own brackets out of thicker/wider material and weld some gussets into the corners. Probably end up being stronger than the original setup as long as I add a couple bolts through the frame rails.

 

[freebird01]

I would have to see how the fifth wheel attatches but i would say its possible depending on the design of the attachment. The further that hitch is spaced off the frame, the more force you will have in the original attachment to the frame. You are creating a lever effect by spacing the hitch further off the frame. So its possible but needs to be carefully planned out before steel is just thrown at it.

 

[sle2115]

I also wonder why the 3" kits are cheaper...sell more possibly?

Those that have put them on, what all do you have to deal with (2" or 3") with a diesel? I know fan shroud, and if the water separator is still in use on the firewall that would be an issue (mine isn't, using 7.3 filter system) but what else is involved?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I also wonder why the 3" kits are cheaper...sell more possibly?

Those that have put them on, what all do you have to deal with (2" or 3") with a diesel? I know fan shroud, and if the water separator is still in use on the firewall that would be an issue (mine isn't, using 7.3 filter system) but what else is involved?

Body-lift rule #1 = get a Borgeson or Flaming River steering-shaft and have it at hand when you lift the body, if not before.

Even with a 2-inch lift, the wimpy factory shaft comes dangerously close to dis-engaging.


If you still are running a factory shaft, you should have a Borgeson or Flaming River on there anyways, so it can't really be considered an added expense to the lift.



Cut away the bottom half of the fan shroud.


Two inch is all you can go with a Navistar V-8 engine; any more and the block begins to bang into the firewall.

I know nothing about that statement makes sense and goes against what one would expect, but it happens none-the-less.


Since you won't be messing with the bed, there are no fuel tank snouts or such to worry with.


A manual transmission does not require any special attention.

I am not familiar with the particulars, but there are some details that must be addressed with an automatic.