Bodylift help

[White Trash]

E1244107G That is the part number for the urethane body mount kit for your truck.



You want to run 42's on the truck and you need more lift? Wow, I'm running 44's with about 2" of lift total on a toyota. Guess I'm doing something wrong.

 

[Rollin Coal]

I could probably ALMOST run them now as long as I don't hit any bumps haha

 

[Agnem]

Yes; it is highly advisable to replace the stock unit with either a Borgeson or Flaming River.

When you get the stock shaft out and lay it beside the Borgeson, you will wonder how on earth you held it between the ditches as long as you have.


With two-inches, the stock shaft is scary-close to being too short.

With three-inches, it is only holding by a thread; the least little twist and it would separate.

If you ain't already up-graded the shaft, you need to anyway, whether you lift it or no.

Damon, do you know the exact Borgeson parts needed to do the upgrade? I've been running for years without issue, but I do agree that it is a highly desired upgrade and cheap insurance. I'd like to get mine done. I went to their web site, and could use a link or something as there are so many options.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Damon, do you know the exact Borgeson parts needed to do the upgrade? I've been running for years without issue, but I do agree that it is a highly desired upgrade and cheap insurance. I'd like to get mine done. I went to their web site, and could use a link or something as there are so many options.

Wouldn't you know it; they have went and "improved" their website; I didn't think I ever was going to find it.

Here is the one I used on the Ford :

https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1464&cat=46&page=1

I bought straight from Borgeson, but Summit usually beats the price somewhat.

The one I got is the deluxe version, U-joints at both ends, no rag-joint, AND it has a shock-absorbing "vibration reducer" gizmo made onto one end.

The regular version is about fifty-bucks cheaper, but I have heard that it transmits every little gravel you run over, hence me going first class.


I have also bought Borgesons for the Dodges in our fleet; they came from Summit.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Here is Flaming River's version :

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.c...tegory_id=120/home_id=85/mode=prod/prd212.htm


If I had of known about these before the fact, I might have went this route.

The Borgeson is doing the job fine ; but, there is just a whole lot more factor going for the Flaming River.

 

[RLDSL]

Unless something is new on borgeson's website, they only list shafts for the older models, for 92up you have to custom order and they stick you a bit more.but it's worth every penney

 

[Agnem]

Cool! I went with the Flaming River one.

 

[Rollin Coal]

Sorry to bump an old thread but I haven't been on for sometime now.( Blew my motor up ) Anyways, I got a 3" body lift given to me but I need hardware. What length of bolts will I need for these? Obviously I will be going with gr8 bolts before anyone says anything.

 

[Redneck]

1-body lifts suck. There's a wide variety of reasons, beginning with the big gay ass lookin gap between body and frame, the added torque on body mounts on a truck that already has 60%+ of it's flex coming from the frame, and the extending of brake lines and assorted linkages, the ****** lookin bumper to body gaps, etc.
2-cheap body lift can be made with poly boat trailer rollers and a chop saw.
3-you don't need lift to clear big tires. Lift is gay, sawzall style body mods are how to fit big tires. The taller the truck, the more it'll want to fall over. Keep it low and itll work better.
4-bushwhacked flares suck, they're made of cheap ass plastic that cracks at the sight of a tree, again, a sawzall and a bit of work will net longer lasting, less poseurish looking results.

 

[redneckaggie]

do people not understand that bumper mounts are slotted to be adjustable and if nothing else and you lift past the adjustment and make NEW MOUNTS all it takes is a little skill. I dont really care for the frame/body gap but its not my truck and in my opinion is worth it for the ease that having a body lift creates when workin on the truck.

And for real people why is there always some joe blow who has to come along in every thread and start talking **** this whole site is just flat out starting to **** me off because nobody can hold back from runnin thier mouth instead of stating their opinion and there is a big difference in the two. There is pretty much always a polite way to say something but then again I know that polite flew out the window for most people before i was born.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Sorry to bump an old thread but I haven't been on for sometime now.( Blew my motor up ) Anyways, I got a 3" body lift given to me but I need hardware. What length of bolts will I need for these? Obviously I will be going with gr8 bolts before anyone says anything.

Wish I would have known this a couple of weeks ago when BrandonMag and I put his body lift on as we could have measured everything for you, but as I recall, there were only three different length/styles of bolts. The bed bolts are all the same, so I'd just pull one, measure it and add 3" to the length. Brandon's truck was a supercab, and yours is a crew, but again I think your best bet would be to pull and "easy one" out/measure/add.

The core support hardware is the goofy stuff as I remember, as it's both smaller and less straightforward. I will tell you that I'd pull both of those apart now as they can be very tough it your truck has seen any corrosion.

Anyhow, hopefully somebody will have the parts for a OBS crewcab laying around and give you some better help than me.

Good luck, and by the way: great looking rig and dog!

 

[MUDKICKR]

all the body lift kits do is put spacers between the body of the truck and the body bushings. they will do nothing but put more load on the mounts. putting the weight of the body farther away from the mounts puts more torque on them. and this can lead to body-frame separating in a crash. it will also hasten the demise of weak mounts.

if you wanna run 42's get the cutout flares.

i have seen body/frame separating without body lifts as well. when the body mounts are wore out and not replaced, then that will elongate the body mount bracket holes and cause problems. i hear people talk this everytime someone wants a body lift. if the body lift is done right it works just as well as factory. when people rig up something (like cheap bolts or other types of body pucks) thats when you will have the problems. dont be afraid of a body lift, but if you are, you can always go with cut out fender flares, but wait, that will make the fenders rust faster since you cut your paint off.

 

[Redneck]

Aggie, I say they suck cause I've been wheeling for about ten years, in everything from an f250 to a samurai, and I know a thing or two about off road performance.
Tall trucks suck unless you just drive them through puddles, which is also boring as hell.
This is why I said keep it low and cut the body to fit the tires. Bushwackers do break at the slightest sight of anything that might rub against them.
Why put in the effort for a cosmetic lift when you could not bother, spend the time making bigger tires fit the right way and have a more functional truck?
A body lift does **** all for clearance, the only improvement you'll get in your final clearance numbers will come from bigger tires.
Like white trash up top said, if we can run 40"+ tires on a Toyota with an inch or two of lift, you should certainly be able to do it on a fullsize!

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Aggie, I say they suck cause I've been wheeling for about ten years, in everything from an f250 to a samurai, and I know a thing or two about off road performance.
Tall trucks suck unless you just drive them through puddles, which is also boring as hell.
This is why I said keep it low and cut the body to fit the tires. Bushwackers do break at the slightest sight of anything that might rub against them.
Why put in the effort for a cosmetic lift when you could not bother, spend the time making bigger tires fit the right way and have a more functional truck?
A body lift does **** all for clearance, the only improvement you'll get in your final clearance numbers will come from bigger tires.
Like white trash up top said, if we can run 40"+ tires on a Toyota with an inch or two of lift, you should certainly be able to do it on a fullsize!

Hello Redneck. I see you are relatively new to OB, so in case anybody hasn't told you: welcome aboard. Update your signature so we can see some of your stuff up North.

I am sure your experience deserves some respect, but when you speak in absolutes it's tough legitimize your expertise, not to mention it's offensive. Try to convince people in a thread, not beat us over the head with "this is the absolute fact". Just some friendly advice from one member to another.

Lotzagoodstuff

 

[MUDKICKR]

from redneck

"A body lift does **** all for clearance, the only improvement you'll get in your final clearance numbers will come from bigger tires."

that is what a body lift is designed to do, and if i remember correctly thats what a suspension lift does as well, they are both designed to raise the body up enough for bigger tires, but they do it in different ways. not everyone is into "cut until the tires fit", some of us like tall trucks, me included. when i see a cut up trk with big tires i think that looks gay, cheap and unsafe. but i have been on a few offroad trails in my life and i do understand that height has a lot to do with stability. i used to take my jeep to mud and rock crawl competitions and it has 4.5" lift and 35s. its stable and it has enough room for tires, but not everyone is going to be doing that to there trucks.