Body lifts.... whats the deal

[RKOCH]

I put a body lift on my 89 F-350 the head is close to the firewall but does not hit it. I had a half inch or so. I took a long pry bar and a hammer and knocked that small edge that was close in just a little no problem. Those kits will work just fine.

 

[jimraelee]

Well all, from lots of reading and talking to some ( thanks Russ) seems lots of things wont fit our trucks so there are listed as such( which should be). But I’m finding that for general public who just wants to bolt on and go, some with some finesse and modding can be fit. Russ told me how a 92-gauge pod would fit my 91 with some massaging. So I’m sure what some of you are saying about the bigger engine hitting the firewall is the reason. Joe truck owner (ie shade tree mech show) wants an easy bolt on and go…. Bottom line, think Ill take a chance on these body lift of 3” and just cut them in half for an overall 1.5” body lift. Give me a little more oomph room when installing the turbo. And maybe fit the 35’s a little better

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

Well all, from lots of reading and talking to some ( thanks Russ) seems lots of things wont fit our trucks so there are listed as such( which should be). But I’m finding that for general public who just wants to bolt on and go, some with some finesse and modding can be fit. Russ told me how a 92-gauge pod would fit my 91 with some massaging. So I’m sure what some of you are saying about the bigger engine hitting the firewall is the reason. Joe truck owner (ie shade tree mech show) wants an easy bolt on and go…. Bottom line, think Ill take a chance on these body lift of 3” and just cut them in half for an overall 1.5” body lift. Give me a little more oomph room when installing the turbo. And maybe fit the 35’s a little better

What will that 3" lift kit cost you? You should seriously consider a hockey puck lift. It will not only cost less, it will be less work to do a 2" hocky puck lift than modifying the store-bought 3" lift to a 1.5" lift.

The only "special" tool you need it a hand drill and a 1/2" drill bit. You get 2" of lift (instead of 1.5") for about $35 - $40. $20 will buy you a couple of dozen pucks and another $15 - $20 to buy less than a dozen longer bolts (becasue you can re-use some of the originals). The hockey pucks are almost exactly the same diameter of the store-bought lift pucks, and about 90% as tough as poly. Plus they are a bit softer than poly so they'll transmit less vibration into the cab...

 

[jimraelee]

What will that 3" lift kit cost you? You should seriously consider a hockey puck lift. It will not only cost less, it will be less work to do a 2" hocky puck lift than modifying the store-bought 3" lift to a 1.5" lift..

about $50.... but the vibration factor you speak of would be a benefit

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I can't speak for the other year-models; but, on the 80-86 trucks, any body-lift over an inch had better think seriously about replacing the JUNK Ford steering-shaft with a Borgeson, or equivalent.

On my 85 F-350, at three-inches, there was less than half-an-inch of connection left in the telescoping part of the shaft; there was not much more at two-inches.

The guys at the shop stuck a floor-jack under one side of a body-lifted truck and the shaft un-splined itself.

I know of another case where an older model Chevy Blazer popped apart the shaft making a hard turn on a sloping parking-lot.

In either case, it is scary to imagine what could have happened, should the shaft have seperated on the highway.

 

[jimraelee]

good suggestion... anyone know where a supplier is... the main site only shows up to 90 model year....

 

[typ4]

My steering shaft is about 4 to 5 inches engagement, I checked it after it slipped apart when resealing the gearbox and thought , wow if that comes apart on the road that would be a big mess. not to mention the insurance may say, oh this truck is modified sorry no coverage.. Insurance people are ******** you know.