jimraelee, the gasser engine isn't as tight against the firewall as the IDI is.
Thank you for bringing that up, Mel. I'd read that before, but it never clicked. I think I now know why I sometimes get this weird vibration when decelerating hard around a corner with the load behind me trying to push the truck a little bit. That had me stumped because it was so infrequent and only happens when conditions are just right. Gonna' have to take a look at that firewall and maybe give it a little "lovin" - with a crowbar!
I did a partial body lift on mine with hockey pucks. I took 5 pucks and drilled a half inch hole in the center of each of them. Then I sawed one of them into two half-height pucks on my bandsaw. I installed a single puck in each of the mounts at the front of the doors, and a puck-and-a-half in each of the mounts in the front end. I didn't install anything in the mounts at the back of the cab or the bed. Even though I raised the nose an inch and a half, I didn't have to do anything to my fan shroud - the fan still clears it just fine.
You'd think it would be noticeable that the cab is tilted slightly "uphill", but since the bed & cab body lines still line up, you can't tell at all unless you get real close and look straight down the body line the whole length of the truck - and even then it is subtle enough that you can't be sure your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. Basically you have to know what you are looking for - and then look really hard for it to see it at all.
The only reason I installed anything was to get a little more working clearance between the bellhousing/turbo pipes and the tranny tunnel when I did my ZF-5 conversion last summer. I actually unbolted those 4 mounts and jacked the cab up a little in order to do the swap, then only decided to make it permanent when I got ready to bolt it all back down.
Anyway, the hocky pucks are tougher than any rubber mounts you're going to find and almost as tough as poly mounts. Each one adds almost exactly 1" of lift (they are like 15/16" thick). A bag of a dozen cost me $10 at a local Big 5 sporting goods, and the only other thing you need is to buy longer bolts to replace some[/b[ of the existing body mounting bolts - and you don't even have to replace all of them. IIRC the cab mount bolts at the back and at the doors are long enough to be re-used in the front, and on the bed. Just make sure you get good quality bolts - at least grade 5, though grade 8 is even better.
One last thing learned from the Jeepin' world. I usually caution people against anything more than 2" of body lift. The problem is that as the lift gets higher, and the bolts get longer, there is more leverage on the ends of the bolts where they attach to the cab and to the frame. In an accident where the frame hits something immoveable (think big rock or oak tree) and the cab tries to keep moving forward (momentum) that additional leverage can either snap the bolts or pull the heads of the bolts right through the mounts. That leads to a body-frame separation which can do a LOT more damage to your truck, and ususally isn't very good for the occupants either.
