Block Drain Petcocks

[jchristie]

I know this probably isn't a huge deal, but since I've never used these before, I thought I'd ask. Do yall have a particular petcock that is better for the block drains? Also, what size? I'm flushing my radiator and everyone on the threads seem to recommend it. Is it recommended to come back with some thread sealer?

Thanks in advance

 

[jchristie]

A link to amazon would be awesome! In my research, I haven't found anyone that particularly cares about a product type.

 

[dunk]

I want to say 1/4 NPT but don't quote me on it, could be 1/8" NPT. I would use a ball valve, maybe add a hose barb for clean draining. I would try to find something that you can secure closed. Or just drill a hole in the handle and wire it closed. For that concern I just stick with plugs given how often I actually need to drain it. I've thought about doing ball valves on my boat engine but don't on that for worry of rust plugging the valve and the engine and manifolds not actually being empty. I pull plugs and poke around with a pick each time, and use my finger to remove rust scale through the large NPT plug in the manifolds. That and I need to manually remove the heater hose and blow air through the heater core so it wouldn't make it an instant process regardless. If I can deal with plugs and water/mess in the boat a few times a year I can deal with it on the truck once every few years at most.

For sealer NPT should seal fine especially brass to cast iron, but put a light smear of Permatex thread sealer available at any auto parts store on the threads to be safe, or use a wrap or two of teflon tape available at any hardware store.

Something like: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-KMBVM-Brass-Valve-Female/dp/B006U4E9F2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1445303694&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4+npt+ball+valve

Also similar ball valves available at any hardware store.

 

[79jasper]

I used one like the middle one.

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Added a piece of copper coming off it to slip a hose onto.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[riotwarrior]

Mine is t handle on rigjt

 

[jaluhn83]

98% sure it's 1/4 NPT

I'd just get a pair of new hex head plugs (not the common square head ones) and put those in. As much as they're used, putting valves in isn't worth the cost/effort and it's not much easier to open a valve than pulling a plug out. Chances are decent a petcock will get clogged/gummed up and need to be pulled anyway as well.

 

[icanfixall]

These block drains are 1/4 inch pipe threads. Be very careful on the passenger side. That battery cable going to the starter is hot all the time. So thats about 2000 amps ready to ground your wrench and make sparks. And you know gravity is gong to drop all those sparks right down in your face.

 

[madpogue]

^^^^ Disconnect both negatives and remove the starter (I leave the starter wires connected and set it on the cross-member). LOTS more room to work on the drain, and no sparks.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

FYI, you want one with a forged handle, the stamped ones bend and break after a little corrosion. I only use the Parker DC603 as the forged handle is the cats pajamas when you need to put a persuader on it.

Use this link it will configure any drain **** that Parker makes.

http://ph.parker.com/us/17054/en/drain-*****

 

[cpdenton]

98% sure it's 1/4 NPT

I'd just get a pair of new hex head plugs (not the common square head ones) and put those in. As much as they're used, putting valves in isn't worth the cost/effort and it's not much easier to open a valve than pulling a plug out. Chances are decent a petcock will get clogged/gummed up and need to be pulled anyway as well.

Glad I'm not the only one who thinks this way. I tried the peacocks, and took them right back out 2 days later. Just seems like something else to fail/break/corrode. It ain't that hard to me to grab some extensions and zip those plugs out.