Best ip and injectors for towing?

[NapaBavarian]

I was tiniking of a larger pump turned down for quicker injection pulses, but reading the website the bull moose isn't recommend for towing.

I was also wondering what injectors would be a good choice, moose misters have a good name, are they the best choice?

It will have a typ4 cam and possibly some match porting.

I' like to plan to be able to tow 14-16k all day long on the highway.



Thanks.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

What turbo do you have? Will you have a charge air cooler? Is it the 6.9 in your signature and if so will it have studs?

There are a lot of variables that play into your question, as I'm sure you know. The *best* pump will be the one that fits your engine/turbo/charge cooler setup properly without over-fuelling or under-fuelling. So bigger is good since you can always turn it down to match the setup.

As for injectors, I only know of two options, moose misters and R&D stage 1's. I've heard good things about the stage 1's, but don't know really anything about the misters.

As for the pump if the Bull Moose isn't suggested for towing, it's out. If you have a big turbo and studs the R&D 110 works great with the hypermax puff limiter. Do a search, MacRobb has a lot of good info on both.

If you're going for a stock type replacement Typ4(Russ) does excellent rebuild work on IPs and turbos, has stock turbo mods available like compressor wheels and exhaust housing upgrades... he's very solid and I've done biz with both him and Justin @ R&D.

When we have more info on your build the ideas will come flying in for sure!

Beware that even with studs the 6.9 is boost limited at a fairly low number. Something like 20 psi IIRC, because of the small diameter of the head studs-- they will end up stretching and blowing the head gasket.

You CAN tow 14k all day with a healthy N/A... it just wont get anywhere fast, lol!

 

[Macrobb]

Honestly, I'd plan on getting head studs as part of your build. That and a good radiator - more fuel in = more heat.

As far as IP/injectors/turbo, it comes down to how fast you want to go.
A Basic build would be something like a Banks sidewinder, stock IP maxed out and R&D stage 1 injectors. (Not sure on the moose misters)
This is a decent build which will net you 200-250 RWHP - right around a '02 7.3 PSD or more.

Next step up will require a performance turbo - something from R&D or Conestoga. You could run a R&D Rd2-110 or conestoga equivalent pump, injectors if you want.

Remember that any build will work fine on stock injectors, it's just that if you are fuel-limited, performance injectors will help a little. If you are turbo-limited(plenty of fuel, not enough air), stock injectors are better than performance ones - you don't want that extra fuel.

Oh and of course, gauges are important - EGT and water temps.

 

[NapaBavarian]

I have a few to choose from but it will probably be a 7.3 with a banks sidewinder and studs, that engine needs a good going through and head gaskets anyway.

I was debating an air to water intercooler later in the game

 

[no mufflers]

the bull moose is a big pump for a factory size turbo.

i hope you wont be in a rush towing that much weight. that is a lot of weight for an IDI in my opinion.

 

[NapaBavarian]

It isn't about speed, faster injection pulses for better atomization and burn earlier in the combination cycle.

I had to edit, somehow I keep adding extra words?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

It isn't about speed, faster injection pulses for better atomization and burn earlier in the combination cycle.

I had to edit, somehow I keep adding extra words?

Fuel atomization in a splash-ignition setup like our IDI's isn't even a little bit important. The fuel literally sprays across the prechamber and slams into the wall and immediately becomes firey goodness. If you've ever seen an idi injector spray your get it right away, it's just a stream of fuel and a stream on purpose. Keeps things simple, that's for sure.

For that much weight a charge air cooler is practically mandatory. Every medium truck on the road has a CAC stock and most of them put out 230hp and up. We have 5 medium trucks at work and all of them are about 230hp(one is 260) and 4 of them start empty at 21k+. This is right about where your weight will be if towing 14k. You'll have similar hp numbers with a cam, Banks, and good fuelling.
But without a CAC you'll have to back out of the throttle really early and downshift on hills. I'm fighting this right now with my setup and I'm only towing 4.5k! So I'm very interested in the CAC myself and wish I could cam it so bad...

Member ShawnMcCanny has a lot of really good info on the water to air cooler he did. He had temp probes everywhere and added a lot of great info to the community.

 

[Clb]

Hit the books FIRST .
the moose family is 3-4 different units.
i think mel has 2-3 sets of sticks to choose from.

me I might go with a vendor who can package an entire induction system.

Ip,sticks,fan(,exhaust on you)
russ can tailor yer fan to match the rest of the parts IF you follow his recommendations for the most part the "big 3" won't steer ya wrong.
look out fer sant rosa diesel, I got a meter.
go build something that you wanna run ,over that d max

 

[Clb]

Hay where were you storaging idi's during the firestorm?

 

[NapaBavarian]

Up on Mt veeder in my back yard

 

[03wr250f]

I agree with pretty much everything up above, I recommend parts from r&d but that is my experience and it has all been good. I would suggest starting with a 7.3 just for bigger head studs. then you absolutely need to plan on a turbo and intercooler to maintain your speed.
I personally would probably go with a 90 pump and stock injectors

 

[NapaBavarian]

When I purchased my duramax exhaust I chose magnaflow after reading that they don't have drone inside the cab. The only difference I saw was the 4" drops down to 3" inside the muffler and back up to 4".

After looking at that and wishing I got the 5" I was thinking of getting a 4" over the axle pipe and 4" muffler, then a 5" section of pipe from the downpipe to the muffler, it seems to act as a resonator.

 

[junk]

I run 4" exhaust from the 3" downpipe all the way up and over the rear axle. I ran it like that for years but the drone was a killer. I added a 4" walker muffler that took out the drone. Sounds good, but no drone.

I pull my 9,000-13,000lb 10' tall by 30' long enclosed trailer with my 89 crewcab. I have a factory pump turned up 2-3 flats and an ATS 093 turbo. I run up to 12 PSI of boost on a factory rebuilt motor that was done in 1999. Truthfully it pulls pretty decent. I'm not the fastest thing on the road, but I don't need to be when pulling. I think a set of 4.10 gears would really help out. the 3.55's are just too tall.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Junk-

Do you know what model you used?

 

[saburai]

I used a walker straight through as well. It was something Wes had laying around the shop, perhaps he would know the model? My truck is plenty quiet...