Battery Relocation

wmoguy

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Ok, Saturday, WX permitting I am planning on relocating the batteries in my pickup to the inbed toolbox to make room for the turbos' and intercooler taking their place. I have a few questions:


1. I'm thinking a single 1/0 line running from batteries to the sylenoid should do the trick?

2. Can't I just remove the OEM cables, replace w/ my new cable. to the solenoid and ground the batteries and we are all good.

Am I missing anything of importance?
 

wmoguy

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oh yea, forgot to add, in addition to the 2 1100 CCA batteries, I was going to add in a Deep cell for those times I run the stereo/cb/transfer pump w/o the pickup running. See any issues in adding those into w/ the 2 regular batteries?
 

RLDSL

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1/0 would be a bare minimum . 3/0 would be best the larger the wire teh easier teh juice flows ( 4/0 gets too hard to make the curves )
Your batts should all be the same type if connected. if running to different circuits, then get an isolator between the types ( it will charge them at the same time but allow them to run their respective areas separately without draining the other.)
 

CaptTom

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oh yea, forgot to add, in addition to the 2 1100 CCA batteries, I was going to add in a Deep cell for those times I run the stereo/cb/transfer pump w/o the pickup running. See any issues in adding those into w/ the 2 regular batteries?

Gotta know how many amps the wire's carrying.

For 1/0 it's rated up to 150 amps

2/0 rated for 175 amps.

Anything to do with a starter or charging system, I like bigger. I do 2/0 on almost all 12V high amp systems, like starters and their relays(not triggers).

The longer the run, the larger the wire size.

A 16' run with a 2% voltage drop in 1/0 will see 13.54V at the end of the cable, with 2/0 it drops to 13.7V

Max run for those drops are 15' for the 1/0 and 20.25' for the 2/0.

Don't forget to add the cumulative length, that is, from battery, to relay, to starter. These are not linear measurements either...IE:as the crow flies.

Gotta measure the entire run, up the back of the truck bed, down the truck bed, under the chassis, around the exhaust, over the fender, back down the fender, under the engine and to the starter....as an example.

I used 2/0 to replace my wires.... just cuz. The factory appears to be 1/0, but, on those extended crank days, cold days and weak battery days... I like less line drop.... I want it all to work and not waste.....but then again... cookoo


One other thing, I see you have two 1100 AH batteries... presumably 8D's... go for 4-6V batteries in series/parallel instead. Not only will you get more AH out of it, but if one gives up the ghost, it's less expensive to replace and to lift into the vehicle as well.
 

bghnkinf350

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I would also consider a cut off near the batteries, so should something happen, you do not have the large hot wire running to the solenoid the whole time and can kill the juice to it.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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On a diesel starter, there won't be any big cables routed through any relay.

The big cable goes directly to the starter.


Popular amperage carrying knowledge fails to consider that starter cables are only in intermittent momentary use, thus they don't over-heat as they would were the same amperage load constant.

In a two battery system, you will be fine with 1/0, though 2/0 will be better.



As for the deep-cycle battery, I have most of our trucks wired such that the starting batteries are connected ONLY to the starter, NOTHING ELSE.

The accessory battery(s) are connected to ALL other electrical loads, EVERYTHING.


A big constant-duty solenoid connects the alternator to the accessory battery(s) ONLY when oil-pressure achieves 7-PSI and above.

When the oil-pressure drops below 7-PSI, as in engine=off, the solenoid breaks contact and the accessory battery is thus isolated from the starting batteries.

I can use any electrical function I desire for as long as I wish with no effect whatsoever on the starting batteries.


I don't use any special battery for the accessory batteries; when an accessory battery goes bad, I just move the oldest starting battery into it's place and replace that starting battery with a new one.


Everything on the place uses Group-31S.




If you GROUND the batteries straight to the frame, be sure to also GROUND the engine to the frame with equally large or larger cables.
;Sweet
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I would also consider a cut off near the batteries, so should something happen, you do not have the large hot wire running to the solenoid the whole time and can kill the juice to it.


What he said.


I have a big Cole-Hersee battery-switch located near the starting batteries.

This is a 4-position switch with OFF, BATTERY-1, BATTERY-2, and BOTH.

I can turn ON or OFF either or both batteries (or banks of batteries).


This feature is also very convenient for when doing any work that requires dis-connecting the batteries; instead of removing battery cables, I simply turn OFF the switch.


Another big PLUS to the switch is that the expensive LONG cable is not connected to the batteries, where it can corrode and deteriorate.

Short less-expensive cables connect the batteries to the switch.


I also have a big ON-OFF Harbor Freight battery-switch that cuts power from the accessory battery; I will vouch for those heavier Harbor Freight battery-switches.


Another big ON-OFF switch can connect the starting batteries AND the accessory battery(s) for an emergency jump-start situation.
;Sweet
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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oh yea, forgot to add, in addition to the 2 1100 CCA batteries, I was going to add in a Deep cell for those times I run the stereo/cb/transfer pump w/o the pickup running. See any issues in adding those into w/ the 2 regular batteries?


If you do not ISOLATE this deep-cycle battery in some fashion, you will just run down your other batteries along with it. :)
 

CaptTom

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Nice set-up. The split system is optimum...start/house. I really like the oil sender idea too.....just make sure it's a hard shut down.... burning up electronics by slowly eliminating voltage will kill 'em too....of course the charging isolator will help prevent that with the engine running.

I still prefer 6V batteries in a house system. There will be a deeper/longer draw availability than just one or two single 8D's. The only downside to a parallel/series set-up with sixes is, more cables to connect, which means a little more corrosion preventive maintenance and fill holes to check. Herking 6V batteries around is way easier on the back and less expensive to replace individually, no matter what your maintenance cycle or rotation is.

I also prefer full maintenance type batteries.... gels are too expensive and maintenance free....well let's just say they aren't as maintenance free as advertised. No matter the brand I've used in the last 20 years, maintenance free's have had the same failure rates as full maintenance batteries without the ability to do hydro testing and cell inspections.

My 40'er has the same 4 6V's(24V system- start and house combined) for the last 7 years....almost unheard of in a marine application....this is with 20 hours a week of use on alternator only. I don't plug my boats into shore power either. These batteries run a 2.5Kw RADAR, a 1k depth sounder as well as GPS, radio, small inverter for computer, deck(75W) and running lights(25W each times 4 minimum and 6-8 depending on my Christmas tree arrangement needed- up to 200W). Admittedly, I need to add another set just like it, because on my long runs, 12 hours or more, I will kill the juice. Energy management becomes the issue then. My alternator is only 95 amps, not quite enough to keep it topped off under heavy load.

Now that my external voltage regulator is a non-issue.... and my jack is missing, replaced with bigger one, I may use that space for an extra battery too. The arrangement isn't determined yet, but it's just one of those..."What if I's" things yet to be seen. :rolleyes:

I agree with the starter intermittent issues, however, on those long rolls.... and yes, even those of us who know better do it.... my preference is to still up-grade those wires to next up. Just something to eliminate thinking about it. I'm so sick, I even used the expensive tinned marine grade stuff. cookoo Not necessary at all, but it does resist corrosion better than the cheap stuff.


BTW-Battery switch is great idea, but, even with a battery switch, cable length is measured in total cable run, even if it is interrupted by a switch. Also, cables mostly corrode at the terminals... a bunch of short cables costs more in terminals and maintenance. The switch and connections also add voltage drop.. I don't know the number, but it is a consideration when doing a large wiring project. Also, every terminal is a point of corrosion. If there's any air gap between the terminal eye and the post.... can't avoid it... there will be corrosion. The solution is terminal protector, however, those type products only delay the inevitable. The more connections, the more terminal posts one has to inspect with line problems.
 
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Matrix37495

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Ok, Saturday, WX permitting I am planning on relocating the batteries in my pickup to the inbed toolbox to make room for the turbos' and intercooler taking their place. I have a few questions:


1. I'm thinking a single 1/0 line running from batteries to the sylenoid should do the trick?

2. Can't I just remove the OEM cables, replace w/ my new cable. to the solenoid and ground the batteries and we are all good.

Am I missing anything of importance?

You didnt miss anything, but I feel 1/0 is too small. If it were my project i would use 3/0 cable, especially since you're making the run longer.

As far as an isolator, maybe you could get one from an RV place?

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-140-amp-...2M/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1321406499&sr=8-12

This would simplify wiring and would charge both batteries at the same time.



Has anyone here ever done a right side frame mount? You could have a very short, large cable going to the starter. It would probably flip the truck right over... :D

Only problem i see with that is how to access the batteries...
 

itsacrazyasian

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You didnt miss anything, but I feel 1/0 is too small. If it were my project i would use 3/0 cable, especially since you're making the run longer.

As far as an isolator, maybe you could get one from an RV place?

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-140-amp-...2M/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1321406499&sr=8-12

This would simplify wiring and would charge both batteries at the same time.



Has anyone here ever done a right side frame mount? You could have a very short, large cable going to the starter. It would probably flip the truck right over... :D

Only problem i see with that is how to access the batteries...

I have one of my batteries under the passenger door. 2/0 is the minimum i'd use. I used a diesel econoline battery box. Holes are in the frame already.
 

Matrix37495

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Wheres the other battery on a diesel E-series? Are the terminals hard to get to?

I like my group 31s, so i'd probably need to build my own tray for the batts. It sure would be nice to have all that room under the hood though... :)
 

OLDBULL8

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I have two new battery isolators, 200 amp also 140 amp.. PM me if interested.
 

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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My starting batteries are on the right side in a purpose-built hanger/carrier, just ahead of the rear wheels.

Of course, my starter is on the left side.

On my personal truck, the accessory battery is under the hood on the left side.

A big electrical brain-center occupies the space where the right side battery used to be.

The extra batteries in the wife's truck are in the left-front bed-corner.
;Sweet
 
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