autorx?

[Diesel_brad]

swwwwwwwwwwwe mnnnnnn

10 quarts with a filter sound right Brad? Here's my math:

Delo oil: $10.99 a gallon on sale x 2.5 gallons = $27.48

Filter: I get the Napa Gold on sale for about $6.00.

You are correct, my math is incorrect by 10%, I apologize but in reality it points to the fact that AutoRX isn't that expensive by comparison.

If you don't know about the couple times a year Napa filter sale, go to your local place and ask them about it, its like 70% off out here, about twice a year. Yes you can even special order stuff and they will honor the prices during the days of the special.

As always: thanks for the pointed yet inquisitive feedback Brad

i pay 16.99 a gallon of valvoline(on sale) and the filter is 10-11 for a motorcraft + 6% tax

 

[riotwarrior]

Do a search online, there are charts and calculators on tractor sites for figuring engine hours to miles , just run the engine at varrying rpms to the equivilant hours, it will take a while and you will end up hauling some fuel.

I have measured compression on a couple of holes that were down to around 135 before and up over 400psi after treatment. is amazing what getting rid of solid caked carbon and varnish will do, and seafoam won't touch that stuff.

You do not want fast cleaning, true all synthetic oils have esters and will clean and there are solvent flushes that clean really fast and they can also knock crap loose that blocks oil passeges and starve oil flow and if you are lucky you only loose something minor. I've been using and selling Amsoil for over 30 years, but I won't use their flush or any other and I wont rely on a synthetic to do the cleaning it's too dangerous, I've seen too much over the years. , I've personally had solvent flush ( i.e. like seafoam) knock a chunk loose and block a lifter on a v8 requiring teardown, in a stinking van
Auto Rx is the only thing out there that cleans things slow and safe enough by very slowly liquifying the yuk from the outside in, it doesn't attack hardcore and bust it all apart, that's why it takes so long.

And BOTG is not the end all beat all of knowledge, they won't even let you on the site if they know that you are a real certified professional, ain't that a kicker, they don't want anyone on there who might be against the flag waving Shaffer's agenda. Unlike most folks, I'm not going to lie just to get approval to get on their website . I have no use for that site.

The reason I'm askin is cause I wanna see if I can make a change on this engine in this truck and if so is it worth sticking into the Bronco? I have another engine that was a good runner in storage, just thinking that this one may be better but who knows.

NO papers for truck...no plates. parts pig only Eloquently called the "Red Pig" from my wife. As I called the white crew cab the "White Elephant" which is now finally GONE!

If this can be made to work I'll try it for chitsngiggles n such Just not sure it's easily doable.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[FordGuy100]

Put it like this, out of everyone (and I mean everyone) that I have heard use AutoRx would use it again. That says something. Like I pointed out my oil consumption dropped drastically. Didn't start any better or get better mileage, but that decrease in oil consumption tells me how well it did.

I would buy it again in a heartbeat.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

When you guys do an oil change after a treatment of RX, does the oil feel like there is deposits that have been cleaned out of the engine?

Where do you guys get your RX?

 

[RLDSL]

When you guys do an oil change after a treatment of RX, does the oil feel like there is deposits that have been cleaned out of the engine?

Where do you guys get your RX?

You won't feel any deposits, that's good ( it dissolves the crud lightly so your filter will grab it, the only thing left floating around is the REAL fine stuff that you can't feel) the oil that you drain out will just be REAL dark and thinner than what you usually drain off
Only place to get it is at www.auto-rx.com they do that because they want folks to actually READ the instructions. THey know if it were on the shelves at stores, folks wouldn't use it properly and it would quikly gain a reputation as being junk

 

[Trying my best]

On the directions on line, for diesels, it says to "repeat" does that mean that you want to do the treatment for two oil changes?

Thanks

 

[RLDSL]

On the directions on line, for diesels, it says to "repeat" does that mean that you want to do the treatment for two oil changes?

Thanks

After you run the two bottles through , you do a oil change, then run the required amount of miles for the rinse cycle ( what this does is the remaining amount of the stuff that embedded itself into the crud in your engine finishes working itself out to the filter) then change again and add two more bottles ( just like shampoo, lather rinse repeat

 

[FordGuy100]

I think it also depends on how bad your engine is. If you pull the valve covers and see a bunch of build up on the top end, I would certainly do 2 cycles of it. My motor was fairly clean so I only did one. Perhaps will throw one bottle in to see if it helps anymore.

 

[RLDSL]

I think it also depends on how bad your engine is. If you pull the valve covers and see a bunch of build up on the top end, I would certainly do 2 cycles of it. My motor was fairly clean so I only did one. Perhaps will throw one bottle in to see if it helps anymore.

If it's got over 100k on it, you can bet it needs the 2 full treatments. and it's in teh places that you can't see where it makes the most difference, that down in the ring grooves where the baked on soot and varnish is hard as a rock.

I had one European diesel that I had done the auto rx bit on ( this had been an engine that at one time burned a qt every 15 miles and wouldn't pull top gear, I rescued the car from a boneyard , oil consumption went to factory normal levals after treatment and it turned into a real powerhouse, )that I had to tear down and I cleaned up the pistons on that thing with a spray can of brake parts cleaner, I had an identical engine with only 60k miles on it that had been run on mobil 1 since rebuild and I had to tear it down and I spent over a week chipping away at the buildup in the ring grooves with a a ring groove cleaner ( somebody want to tell me again about how the esters in synthetic will do just as good a job of cleaning as the Auto RX does

 

[whenry912]

Add me to the Auto/RX fan club! I treated my truck and withinh 500 miles during the first cycle, the increase of smoothness and power was amazing. My motor wqs pretty neglected by the previous owner, and this stuff helped a lot.

 

[dsltech83]

Not to hijack but Dad just bought a 93 IDI- 7.3 5spd, ends up the thing uses 2-3 qts per tank of fuel- He just changed the oil and used rotella- Should we try a different oil or go straight for Auto-rx??

 

[RLDSL]

Not to hijack but Dad just bought a 93 IDI- 7.3 5spd, ends up the thing uses 2-3 qts per tank of fuel- He just changed the oil and used rotella- Should we try a different oil or go straight for Auto-rx??

Both, if you put the auto rx in with rotella i'ts going to have a hard time grabbing in. Get the Auto Rx and use something a little stouter like Delo that is less likely to just burn off so easily , and drive with a light foot.
Make sure the CDR is functioning properly ( it is probably due for a new one , do a search here on the site, tons of info on that critter if your CDR isn't working properly it will have you inhaling oil )
I'll bet when he bought it, the dealer or previous owner had it full of Lucas to hide the oil consumption

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

This stuff sure sounds legit.

I don't think i have ever heard a general consensus that has been positive like this towards an additive.

I think i migt run this stuff in my next change.

 

[dsltech83]

Both, if you put the auto rx in with rotella i'ts going to have a hard time grabbing in. Get the Auto Rx and use something a little stouter like Delo that is less likely to just burn off so easily , and drive with a light foot.
Make sure the CDR is functioning properly ( it is probably due for a new one , do a search here on the site, tons of info on that critter if your CDR isn't working properly it will have you inhaling oil )
I'll bet when he bought it, the dealer or previous owner had it full of Lucas to hide the oil consumption

CDR appears to be functioning properly, blowby out oil fill hole disappears just above idle-(that's correct right??) Definately will have him do the Delo will have to convince him that Auto-Rx is worth it.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[RLDSL]

CDR appears to be functioning properly, blowby out oil fill hole disappears just above idle-(that's correct right??) Definately will have him do the Delo will have to convince him that Auto-Rx is worth it.
Thanks in advance!!

That doesn't really tell you the cdr is fully functional, it just tells you that blowby isn't insanly excessive and cdr isnt blocked so fumes are being drawn into the intake manifold once the rpms raise enough to build a little vacuum. You need to pop that thing off to at least clean it ( have a new grommet on hand, they can get rather dry over time) and test the thing while off ( do a search, lots of neat ways to see if they have any life left in them) but really, if it's got 100k miles or if it looks original, just do yourself a favour and replace the thing, it's due and you'll be good for another 10 years