theSHERPA
Full Access Member
Dang, that box of parts is getting lighter and lighter!
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Antarctic IDI Build
- Thread starter Thewespaul
- Start date
Got a start on the cooling system refresh today.
Thermostat still in good shape, always buy motor craft folks!
Check ball still in the thermostat housing
Rad out
Easy way to get fan off with the v belt setup. Gotta heat up the fan nut first and it comes right off.
Thermostat still in good shape, always buy motor craft folks!
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Check ball still in the thermostat housing
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Rad out
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Easy way to get fan off with the v belt setup. Gotta heat up the fan nut first and it comes right off.
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And there ya go. Looks like the original pump, has the paper gasket still. Timing cover is very clean, this thing must not have a ton of idle hours which is good.
Rad looks pretty decent, gonna give it a good cleaning while it’s out.
Pump still looks good, not much play in the shaft.
Don’t think I’ll reuse that coolant....
New pump got a coat of semi gloss clear to prevent any rust
That’s all for tonight
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Rad looks pretty decent, gonna give it a good cleaning while it’s out.
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Pump still looks good, not much play in the shaft.
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Don’t think I’ll reuse that coolant....
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New pump got a coat of semi gloss clear to prevent any rust
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That’s all for tonight
Cleaned out the rad with some vingar and flushed it till it was clean. Used some coil cleaner on the fins.
Degresed the engine and prepped the front cover, figured while I had everything apart I’d do some painting.
Satin black on the fan shroud and some high temp gloss black on the rest.
Degresed the engine and prepped the front cover, figured while I had everything apart I’d do some painting.
Satin black on the fan shroud and some high temp gloss black on the rest.
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A little chrome didn’t hurt anyone
My trick to getting the water pump gasket and pump lines up perfect:
Take some 4” bolts, cut the head off and cut a notch for a flat head screwdriver. Install finger tight and just slide the gasket and pump over.
Water pump and water necks installed
New clutch installed on fan
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My trick to getting the water pump gasket and pump lines up perfect:
Take some 4” bolts, cut the head off and cut a notch for a flat head screwdriver. Install finger tight and just slide the gasket and pump over.
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Water pump and water necks installed
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New clutch installed on fan
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Accessories, belts, fan, shroud and rad reinstalled
Gonna let it sit and cure for 24 hours then fill up the coolant.
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Gonna let it sit and cure for 24 hours then fill up the coolant.
While searching for the runaway top rad hose I noticed some ambulance things y’all might think is neat on the ambo, I sure do.
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Looks like 117 vac rated for 60 hz
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
Great Pic's!
can I ask you to describe the feeling the new fan clutch gives?
(so I can check mine?)
can I ask you to describe the feeling the new fan clutch gives?
(so I can check mine?)
Gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. Best way to know it’s working is by driving it hard and listening for the fan, you can even block off part of the rad to achieve this. If there’s oil or buildup on the front of the clutch replace it. Replace if the fan can’t be spun independently of the engine
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
Ok, but that spinning, should that take a certain amount of effort, or more like if you wistle against it it starts spinning???
Should have some resistance
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
ok, thanks
Well I’m pretty behind on updating this thread so here’s what I’ve been up to.
Filled coolant up and purged the air from the system. Filled the trans up (man that derale pan adds a ton of capacity) and got it to the correct level when hot. Pulled the steering column out and replaced it with a rebuilt unit. Looked into the stuck gear indicator and it is indeed broke off in the cluster, moving the cable doesnt move the needle. This steering column rebuild is NICE. For the price it can’t be beat, gonna be doing a hall of fame post on this one. Wired in a good high beam switch, and hooked up the trans temp sensor.
New pyrometer kit came in, installed it and converted my harness back over to the newer style light plugs and what do you know... still no worry. Called banks and thermocoupler checks out and the gauge fails. New one should be here Wednesday, I’ll be sending the old one back so banks can decide if they will warranty it. With the newer style gauge they had me just hook up the ohmeter and see if the gauge moves unlike the older style which had ohm specs. Thermocoupler should output 3.5-5 millevolts at room temperature according to their spec.
Here’s some misc pics from today.
Filled coolant up and purged the air from the system. Filled the trans up (man that derale pan adds a ton of capacity) and got it to the correct level when hot. Pulled the steering column out and replaced it with a rebuilt unit. Looked into the stuck gear indicator and it is indeed broke off in the cluster, moving the cable doesnt move the needle. This steering column rebuild is NICE. For the price it can’t be beat, gonna be doing a hall of fame post on this one. Wired in a good high beam switch, and hooked up the trans temp sensor.
New pyrometer kit came in, installed it and converted my harness back over to the newer style light plugs and what do you know... still no worry. Called banks and thermocoupler checks out and the gauge fails. New one should be here Wednesday, I’ll be sending the old one back so banks can decide if they will warranty it. With the newer style gauge they had me just hook up the ohmeter and see if the gauge moves unlike the older style which had ohm specs. Thermocoupler should output 3.5-5 millevolts at room temperature according to their spec.
Here’s some misc pics from today.
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