ColLonewolf
Registered User
I have a 2wd diesel C6 out of a 90 F350 that I will be pulling here one day. It runs good. Have no use for it.
Another zf5 swap
- Thread starter BlackNoma
- Start date
I have a 2wd diesel C6 out of a 90 F350 that I will be pulling here one day. It runs good. Have no use for it.
BlackNoma
Full Access Member
It's a 2000 Sonoma Highrider (ZR2)
It almost on 1-tons. 42's. Etc... Almost.
That's my other project truck. Haha
Oil_In_The_Gas
Registered User
You'll be so happy once this swap is done. I went from C6 to T-19 then to S5-47 ZF5. Drove so much better with the ZF than either of the previous setups. I used the T-19 Diesel flywheel for the ZF5. I cant speak for the Gasser clutch compatibility. Only complaint is the gear rollover noise in neutral. Hardest part of the swap for me was switching out the pedals and getting the exhaust pipe out of the ATS turbo. Have fun! Also make sure the hydraulic line is far far from the exhaust, I thought I had plenty of room and melted the line on a big grade, went to downshift the pedal stuck to the floor, doh!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've even cut some fuel line lengthwise and wrapped it around this line to make sure that it didn't get too hot.
BlackNoma
Full Access Member
Any custom sticks out there? Y'all all kept the stock shift stick/knob?
I'm thinking about somehow putting a switch in the knob for my gear vendors unit so I can shift it with my hand and not the floor while I'm in gear (trying to make it smooth).
Any thoughts? Ideas? Looking for streamlined.
I'm thinking about somehow putting a switch in the knob for my gear vendors unit so I can shift it with my hand and not the floor while I'm in gear (trying to make it smooth).
Any thoughts? Ideas? Looking for streamlined.
Using the t19 flywheel, you used all stock t19 throwout bearing and clutch disc? Or you used some zf stuff in there mixed in? I have heard of people trying to use it, and then not having enough travel on the throwout bearing to disengage the pressure plate. Apparently the zf bell is deeper than the t19 bell.
BlackNoma
Full Access Member
The swap is complete!
Here is some nuggets of wisdom I learned in the process I can hopefully pass on to others:
I used a gas zf5 for the wide ratio.
I used the adapter plate (bellhousing to block that the starter bolts to) off a 6.9 to drill out the bellhousing to bolt up. Tap out the alignment dowels and drill those out also.
Be sure to keep your drill straight and true. I did my best and had a couple walk a little, but nothing too bad. One bolt was 1/4" off from my 7.3 adapter. So this tells me the adapter was just a little different from 6.9-7.3 but it wasn't too far off. Had to drill it and through bolt it. It's easier to get 2 bolts that are about an inch longer to help get it threaded and suck it up to the engine.
Used the luk solid mass flywheel for a 7.3
My truck is cclwb 4wd. Got the zf5 out of a gas f-superduty of the same year.
My cross member could not bolt up to the frame. Trans was about an inch or two longer. I used the f-superduty cross member and modified it to clear the front driveshaft to keep the cross member straight. I still had plenty of room in my driveshaft to use the original t-case and DS with no issues.
The 4 wires going to the c6: One is 12v with the ignition. One is the reverse lights. The other two are the neutral safety switch.
Cut them and strip them all back a little. Turn the key on and find the 12v with a multi meter. Then touch it to the other 3 until the reverse lights come on. Wire the remaining 2 together to bypass the NSS so you can start your truck. I don't know what the colors were because mine was all chaffed and bastardized.
Wire the other 2 to the zf5 for reverse lights.
I punched out the round pin holding in the gearshift lever on the column and unbolted all the levers/rods to get all that out of the way. A manual column would be nice, but it's no big deal.
The pedal assembly bolted right in, you cannot switch over the cruise control brake switch wedge from the auto to the manual. It doesn't allow the brake pedal to relax all the way and your brakes lights will be on forever... That took me an hour to figure out at 2am. Haha
Everything went really smooth and I got it done (with hydroboost swap, radiator, return caps, glowplugs, etc...) In 4 evenings and a half day. Probably ~18 hours?
I couldn't be happier and suggest you do it if your remotely thinking about it.
I used the opportunity to remove all the seats and patch the rusted floor and put in new floors. The cheap one from rockauto is really thick and you'll need to trim a lot off the front to make it fit. Good quality, though. Fitment/form isn't perfect.
1st is super low, I have 3.55's and 33's and I start in 2nd. It will come in very handy hauling a loaded gooseneck.
Here is some nuggets of wisdom I learned in the process I can hopefully pass on to others:
I used a gas zf5 for the wide ratio.
I used the adapter plate (bellhousing to block that the starter bolts to) off a 6.9 to drill out the bellhousing to bolt up. Tap out the alignment dowels and drill those out also.
Be sure to keep your drill straight and true. I did my best and had a couple walk a little, but nothing too bad. One bolt was 1/4" off from my 7.3 adapter. So this tells me the adapter was just a little different from 6.9-7.3 but it wasn't too far off. Had to drill it and through bolt it. It's easier to get 2 bolts that are about an inch longer to help get it threaded and suck it up to the engine.
Used the luk solid mass flywheel for a 7.3
My truck is cclwb 4wd. Got the zf5 out of a gas f-superduty of the same year.
My cross member could not bolt up to the frame. Trans was about an inch or two longer. I used the f-superduty cross member and modified it to clear the front driveshaft to keep the cross member straight. I still had plenty of room in my driveshaft to use the original t-case and DS with no issues.
The 4 wires going to the c6: One is 12v with the ignition. One is the reverse lights. The other two are the neutral safety switch.
Cut them and strip them all back a little. Turn the key on and find the 12v with a multi meter. Then touch it to the other 3 until the reverse lights come on. Wire the remaining 2 together to bypass the NSS so you can start your truck. I don't know what the colors were because mine was all chaffed and bastardized.
Wire the other 2 to the zf5 for reverse lights.
I punched out the round pin holding in the gearshift lever on the column and unbolted all the levers/rods to get all that out of the way. A manual column would be nice, but it's no big deal.
The pedal assembly bolted right in, you cannot switch over the cruise control brake switch wedge from the auto to the manual. It doesn't allow the brake pedal to relax all the way and your brakes lights will be on forever... That took me an hour to figure out at 2am. Haha
Everything went really smooth and I got it done (with hydroboost swap, radiator, return caps, glowplugs, etc...) In 4 evenings and a half day. Probably ~18 hours?
I couldn't be happier and suggest you do it if your remotely thinking about it.
I used the opportunity to remove all the seats and patch the rusted floor and put in new floors. The cheap one from rockauto is really thick and you'll need to trim a lot off the front to make it fit. Good quality, though. Fitment/form isn't perfect.
1st is super low, I have 3.55's and 33's and I start in 2nd. It will come in very handy hauling a loaded gooseneck.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I don't believe that they are different. In both of my 1985 F250s, I've pulled the four speed out and then installed a ZF5 that was behind a 7.3 with absolutely no issues. I've also dropped a 6.9 in place of a 7.3 and used the 6.9 adapter plate. Again, no issues.
BlackNoma
Full Access Member
A 6.9/7.3 trans might have bolted up no problems with a little wiggle room. I drilled the holes 1/2" (bolt size) not bellhousing hole size because I didn't have a bit that size. My c6 bolt holes were a little bit larger than the bolt.
All the other holes were perfect and then this one was way off. Doesn't make sense. It was the bottom left if your looking at the engine from the back. I took my sweet time ensuring they were straight and true. Even if I was off, it's impossible to be a 1/4" off.
Just letting y'all know what I found.
fjkontur
Registered User
what adapter plate do u use when swapping a 6.9 into a 7.3 . want to know because i hought they were the same block.
Same blocks, same adapters.
BRShirk
Registered User
Do you have any pics of the process?
I just picked up a 93 F350 4de 4wd 7.3IDI with an E4OD. I have a 91 F250 4wd 7.3IDI with a ZF5 I was going to build but may be a parts truck
I just picked up a 93 F350 4de 4wd 7.3IDI with an E4OD. I have a 91 F250 4wd 7.3IDI with a ZF5 I was going to build but may be a parts truck
BlackNoma
Full Access Member
I planned on taking a lot of pictures and doing a full write-up... But didn't end up being on a time crunch.
It's pretty straightforward. Especially if you have a complete parts truck. Disassemble the zf5 truck and put it in the other truck in reverse order.
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