alternator size

farriswheel

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Would anybody have an idea of how many amps my stock alternator on my 89 is rated for?

thanks
 

typ4

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Most likely 70. I get the 100 off of a taurus or convert to a 3g 130 amp off of a later taurus.

I do have an extra 1g 100 amp off a mptorhome I would make you a smokin deal on.
 

farriswheel

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well, i need to do something. Even with 4 batteries, about 1000 amps each, my voltage still drops to 9v. with my amp turned about half way up.

I would be interested, if i could make a bracket to mount 2 of them. would this be hard?
 

BioFarmer93

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You could drive it off of the PS pump like this- I've seen PS pumps with the double v-belt pulley's, so you wouldn't have to use a short k-belt like I did.. Made the bracket & welded it up in about 2hrs..
 

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swuchase1

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my 88 has 130 amp alt came stock that way runs 2000 watt inverter newer a problem Autozone has them in stock
 

sootman73

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do you have a aftermarket gauge wired up for voltage then? you might need to change the pulley size of the alternator if you are using the system at idle a lot. these rated power outputs are usually at 2000 rpm. if you are idling at 650 for extended periods of time then the alternator will prob not keep up with how much power you need.

and where did you put the extra batteries? what size cable did you use to wire up the batteries? how old is your current alternator?
 

runaway!

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You have to isolate the two alternators entirely else they will fight, never quite figured out why tho considering they're both DC power supplies...

It's the voltage controllers that are fighting - in a way. Basically one will do all the work and the other is along for the ride as it is seeing a fully charged system due to the primary's output.

So you either have to draw a huge amount of current, have really dead batts, or get an alternator sync unit for marine applications.

OR

You might be able to get a pair of alts without a built in voltage regulator, and possibly wire both in parallel off an external voltage regulator.
 

LCAM-01XA

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It's the voltage controllers that are fighting - in a way. Basically one will do all the work and the other is along for the ride as it is seeing a fully charged system due to the primary's output.
But how will you know which acts as a primary and which is the secondary alternator? Wouldn't they switch duty at random?

You might be able to get a pair of alts without a built in voltage regulator, and possibly wire both in parallel off an external voltage regulator.
So say two 1G alternators wired to the same voltage regulator? Would that work?
 

runaway!

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But how will you know which acts as a primary and which is the secondary alternator? Wouldn't they switch duty at random?

I can't say with certainty which one will dominate, in theory the alt with the shortest run of wiring should see the battery voltage sooner.

Once order is established, I'm pretty sure it will remain the primary so long as a load is on the system.


So say two 1G alternators wired to the same voltage regulator? Would that work?

I am no expert, but it might work. Check all the wires that run from reg to alt, if there is power only when an electrical load exists on a running motor - then it should be the wire you want to share between alternators... WIRE IT IN PARALLEL ONLY!

I'm pretty sure a regulator is just a relay that reads system current and puts a load on the alt accordingly. When a dip in voltage or spike in amperage occurs due to battery loading, the switch flips closed and puts current draw on the alternator. When the voltage gets too high, the circuit opens. I've heard of regulators failing closed, and burning up all sorts of stuff - always run a fuse off the alt!

It is also this reason why some alts won't charge a battery, the batts will draw amps when low - but they still provide enough voltage to keep the regulator open, when not under current. I would speculate you are more likely to charge your batts with a small resistive load like turning on your headlights.

Perhaps I am dead wrong with all of this, but it is how I understand it. If someone can tell me I am wrong, then I maybe I shouldn't perform surgery on my guitar amp next weekend... (Capacitors with 600vdc! That could hurt!)
 

farriswheel

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I can't say with certainty which one will dominate, in theory the alt with the shortest run of wiring should see the battery voltage sooner.

Once order is established, I'm pretty sure it will remain the primary so long as a load is on the system.




I am no expert, but it might work. Check all the wires that run from reg to alt, if there is power only when an electrical load exists on a running motor - then it should be the wire you want to share between alternators... WIRE IT IN PARALLEL ONLY!

I'm pretty sure a regulator is just a relay that reads system current and puts a load on the alt accordingly. When a dip in voltage or spike in amperage occurs due to battery loading, the switch flips closed and puts current draw on the alternator. When the voltage gets too high, the circuit opens. I've heard of regulators failing closed, and burning up all sorts of stuff - always run a fuse off the alt!

It is also this reason why some alts won't charge a battery, the batts will draw amps when low - but they still provide enough voltage to keep the regulator open, when not under current. I would speculate you are more likely to charge your batts with a small resistive load like turning on your headlights.

Perhaps I am dead wrong with all of this, but it is how I understand it. If someone can tell me I am wrong, then I maybe I shouldn't perform surgery on my guitar amp next weekend... (Capacitors with 600vdc! That could hurt!)

Do you work on tube amps?

And, what is a 1g alt?
 

LCAM-01XA

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I can't say with certainty which one will dominate, in theory the alt with the shortest run of wiring should see the battery voltage sooner.

Once order is established, I'm pretty sure it will remain the primary so long as a load is on the system.
I was thinking the same thing, but what if you made the wires the exact same length? In that case I'd imagine things like quality of connection between cable ends and cables themselves will come into play...


I am no expert, but it might work. Check all the wires that run from reg to alt, if there is power only when an electrical load exists on a running motor - then it should be the wire you want to share between alternators... WIRE IT IN PARALLEL ONLY!
Take a look at this wiring diagram:
You must be registered for see images

As you notice, the key-on wire is only used to trigger the VR, and it is in fact the field and stator wires that really excite the alternator windings and what not. So what would we do about those, split each of them in two?
 

runaway!

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I was thinking the same thing, but what if you made the wires the exact same length? In that case I'd imagine things like quality of connection between cable ends and cables themselves will come into play...

I would say that is correct, the path of least resistance should determine which one is dominate.



Take a look at this wiring diagram:
You must be registered for see images

As you notice, the key-on wire is only used to trigger the VR, and it is in fact the field and stator wires that really excite the alternator windings and what not. So what would we do about those, split each of them in two?

Yeah, so long as it is a parallel wiring. Parallel will double the current draw from the regulator - but the old mechanical ones are pretty robust. Wiring in series will lower the voltage of the signal to the second alt, which will only activate the first alternator in series and leave the second one off.

Now that I can see the schematic, I'm confident that sharing the F and S signal lines would work really well. I'm tempted to remove the regulator from my 3g and see if an external unit can drive it. Dual 3g's would seem like a lot of fun ;Sweet
 
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