farriswheel
Full Access Member
Would anybody have an idea of how many amps my stock alternator on my 89 is rated for?
thanks
thanks
You have to isolate the two alternators entirely else they will fight, never quite figured out why tho considering they're both DC power supplies...I would be interested, if i could make a bracket to mount 2 of them. would this be hard?
You have to isolate the two alternators entirely else they will fight, never quite figured out why tho considering they're both DC power supplies...
But how will you know which acts as a primary and which is the secondary alternator? Wouldn't they switch duty at random?It's the voltage controllers that are fighting - in a way. Basically one will do all the work and the other is along for the ride as it is seeing a fully charged system due to the primary's output.
So say two 1G alternators wired to the same voltage regulator? Would that work?You might be able to get a pair of alts without a built in voltage regulator, and possibly wire both in parallel off an external voltage regulator.
But how will you know which acts as a primary and which is the secondary alternator? Wouldn't they switch duty at random?
So say two 1G alternators wired to the same voltage regulator? Would that work?
I can't say with certainty which one will dominate, in theory the alt with the shortest run of wiring should see the battery voltage sooner.
Once order is established, I'm pretty sure it will remain the primary so long as a load is on the system.
I am no expert, but it might work. Check all the wires that run from reg to alt, if there is power only when an electrical load exists on a running motor - then it should be the wire you want to share between alternators... WIRE IT IN PARALLEL ONLY!
I'm pretty sure a regulator is just a relay that reads system current and puts a load on the alt accordingly. When a dip in voltage or spike in amperage occurs due to battery loading, the switch flips closed and puts current draw on the alternator. When the voltage gets too high, the circuit opens. I've heard of regulators failing closed, and burning up all sorts of stuff - always run a fuse off the alt!
It is also this reason why some alts won't charge a battery, the batts will draw amps when low - but they still provide enough voltage to keep the regulator open, when not under current. I would speculate you are more likely to charge your batts with a small resistive load like turning on your headlights.
Perhaps I am dead wrong with all of this, but it is how I understand it. If someone can tell me I am wrong, then I maybe I shouldn't perform surgery on my guitar amp next weekend... (Capacitors with 600vdc! That could hurt!)
Do you work on tube amps?
And, what is a 1g alt?
I was thinking the same thing, but what if you made the wires the exact same length? In that case I'd imagine things like quality of connection between cable ends and cables themselves will come into play...I can't say with certainty which one will dominate, in theory the alt with the shortest run of wiring should see the battery voltage sooner.
Once order is established, I'm pretty sure it will remain the primary so long as a load is on the system.
Take a look at this wiring diagram:I am no expert, but it might work. Check all the wires that run from reg to alt, if there is power only when an electrical load exists on a running motor - then it should be the wire you want to share between alternators... WIRE IT IN PARALLEL ONLY!
I was thinking the same thing, but what if you made the wires the exact same length? In that case I'd imagine things like quality of connection between cable ends and cables themselves will come into play...
Take a look at this wiring diagram:
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As you notice, the key-on wire is only used to trigger the VR, and it is in fact the field and stator wires that really excite the alternator windings and what not. So what would we do about those, split each of them in two?