Alternative way to install head studs

[Nero]

Was curious if anyone has tried this, and what was their results?
Instead of taking the heads off to install head studs, something I've done on a handful of vw tdi's is remove one head bolt, install the head stud, fully torque the one, move to next head bolt, rinse and repeat. Do this process in order of the torque pattern.

I've had good results doing this on the vw's, anyone tried it here? Thoughts?

 

[TNBrett]

My understanding is that you would have to pull the engine out of the truck to do that, and at that point why not just pull it and do it right? The issue is there are a few bolts that have to be removed and installed with the head. I think it’s the HVAC box that keeps them from coming all the way out.

 

[Nero]

Correct, the hvac box is in the way, but, what if we uninstall the airbox first? Do entire job in chassis.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Also there's the fact that a bolt or two that won't come out on the driver's side on trucks with a C6. That bolt(s?) hit the shift linkages on the steering column. Plus there's clearance issues with the firewall insulation on the driver's side, sometimes. These are for our trucks in general, they may or may not apply to your truck.
To me, trying to install head studs without pulling the engine is doing extra work in order to save yourself some extra work. Sure it works on VWs. Of course they aren't V8 engines either.
To sum this up, there has been people who insisted on installing studs just like you are suggesting. They have done it too. People try to avoid pulling their engines in every way possible. They just won't believe that the actual install is MUCH easier with the engine on a stand. I would never recommend installing studs without first installing new head gaskets. They are the only thing that keeps all of the chaos inside your cylinders where it belongs. I don't like taking the risk that something isn't 100%. Especially considering the fact that the #1 reason to install studs is to run a turbo or a turbo that puts out more boost. That only adds to the chaos that goes on inside the cylinders.

 

[Old Goat]

Here is a thread that floated through here a week or so back on the same subject....if you can understand what the guy is asking.

6.9l idi, to repop new HG's or to stud it & "send it"?

Thanks in advance, thanks to the 50k/700k strong...(you idiots) and thank you Oilburners.net So (finally) stumbled upon a recently rebuilt 6.9L, already have the $250 ARP HS, guys credible, question: beings engine is on stand, yank the newly installed head gaskets (unknown brand, likely FP) &...

www.oilburners.net

Bottom line is....



Goat

 

[Nero]

Jeez the OP of that thread... Can barely make sense of him. But I can see the unanimous vote is DON'T do it this way. Not an issue. Just gonna run a turbo until there's an issue, then do it.

Main reason I don't want to pull the engine is I just converted my dad's crew cab from a 460 to an idi in October, then that engine ended up being a dud, broke a ring. So had to swing in another already, finished it about two weeks ago. Not looking to do another anytime soon.

 

[Big Bart]

I second what IDIBronco said. Do it right the first time, pull the engine out, pull the heads (Chance to look for issues.), stud it, perhaps pull the oil pan and check a couple bearings, replace front and rear main seals, I would do the oil cooler, and most importantly use new head gaskets. These head gaskets are often ~30 years old. Hydro lock the engine and it’s going to cost a whole lot more to fix it.

Nero to your point that is a lot of work to pull it and stud it. Also a lot of money to pay someone else to do it.

 

[03wr250f]

It's so incredibly simple to pull these motors. It isn't worth it
Borrow or buy a cherry picker less than 4 hours for most people and even at worst case an inexperienced person could have it out in 8 with turbo removal.
Way easier to do out of engine.
If you are fast, out, reseal, and back in all in one weekend

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Just gonna run a turbo until there's an issue, then do it.

This may be the best way. If you're not running a lot of boost, you may not have any trouble for years, if ever. There's a lot of these engine driving around with a turbo and no studs.

 

[Nero]

I agree it's simple to pull these engines, my hiccup is I'm a diesel mechanic for a living, I work on semis all day long, last thing I want to do is pull my own engine. I already have a cherry picker and a stand.
I messaged Russ Typ4 and he said he ran a stock kit for years no issue. I'm going to take that gamble, also due to the fact head studs are backordered everywhere right now.

If push come to shove, I'll put studs in. I just really don't look forward to the labor.

 

[cozinsky]

If you're running the stock pump turned up you should be fine. I don't think you'll be able to build enough cylinder pressure and boost to cause any problems. If you step up to a bigger pump then studs are pretty much mandatory.