6.9l idi, to repop new HG's or to stud it & "send it"?

Lezgo Brandon

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Thanks in advance, thanks to the 50k/700k strong...(you idiots) and thank you Oilburners.net
So (finally) stumbled upon a recently rebuilt 6.9L, already have the $250 ARP HS, guys credible, question: beings engine is on stand, yank the newly installed head gaskets (unknown brand, likely FP) & throw some new (suggestions?) With the studs or just R&R head bolts furda ARP & send it without popping HG's? Again thanks to all y'all.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I think I understand your question. I think that you're asking if you should reuse the head gaskets or if you should replace the head gaskets while installing the head studs. My opinion is that you should always replace the head gaskets when you have the heads off. Why would you not want to? Personally, I prefer Fel-Pro head gaskets. For one thing they are .010" thicker than Victor Reinz head gaskets and that may be the difference between your valves clearing the pistons or them hitting the pistons. As to the unasked part of your question, don't try to remove one head bolt and then put a stud in it's place. Yes, I know that the engine was recently rebuilt, but it's always best to make sure that the head bolts holes are as clean as possible. You want to do your best to remove any crud that may be lurking at the bottoms of those holes, and they do hold a lot of crud at the bottom. Considering that this engine is on a stand, I really see no reason to not pull the heads.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Thanks in advance, thanks to the 50k/700k strong...(you idiots)
What does that mean? I can't even guess lol

I agree with the above, do it once and do it right. You'll need a bottom tap from what I have read about the studs. Head bolts are about the only thing holding a 6.9 back-- so add those and you're golden for many years. Also a good time to check bearing clearances and such since it's out. Credible or not I wouldn't install a new rebuild without a peek.

Happy wrenching!
 

Big Bart

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Triple ditto! Pull the heads at a minimum.

Ditto with Thejoshbear. Pull the oil pan and check around and test a couple bearings for gap. Also if this was not a complete rebuild (Just heads.) be sure to do the front and rear main seals and oil cooler seals if not done.
 

hacked89

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If your tight on cash and the motor was only test ran dry or not ran at all you can reuse the head gaskets. If it was ran with coolant through it at all you will need new. X2 bronco if it doesn't have fp switch regardless.
 

Lezgo Brandon

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What does that mean? I can't even guess lol

I agree with the above, do it once and do it right. You'll need a bottom tap from what I have read about the studs. Head bolts are about the only thing holding a 6.9 back-- so add those and you're golden for many years. Also a good time to check bearing clearances and such since it's out. Credible or not I wouldn't install a new rebuild without a peek.

Happy wrenching!
"Idiots" (Aka we idi folk) fwirc "Idi_ots" was thrown around quite loosely back in the day (my bad, must have fallen off since then) but re; heads being already off, they weren't planning on being removed as the engine has approximately 500> miles from complete tare down, so initially thinking remove all the stocker (new head bolts) & replace with the new ARP's I already have lying around (again WITHOUT removal of heads as it was recently already done) thanks again.

:sorry:
 

IDIBRONCO

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guys credible, question: beings engine is on stand, yank the newly installed head gaskets (unknown brand, likely FP) & throw some new (suggestions?) With the studs or just R&R head bolts furda ARP & send it without popping HG's? Again thanks to all y'all.

but re; heads being already off, they weren't planning on being removed as the engine has approximately 500> miles from complete tare down, so initially thinking remove all the stocker (new head bolts) & replace with the new ARP's I already have lying around (again WITHOUT removal of heads as it was recently already done) thanks again.
Despite what you do or don't want to do, you DID ask for our opinions on whether or not to replace the head gaskets. So far, the opinions seem to be pretty unanimous.
 

Lezgo Brandon

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What does that mean? I can't even guess lol

I agree with the above, do it once and do it right. You'll need a bottom tap from what I have read about the studs. Head bolts are about the only thing holding a 6.9 back-- so add those and you're golden for many years. Also a good time to check bearing clearances and such since it's out. Credible or not I wouldn't install a new rebuild without a peek.

Happy wrenching!
Mornin, afternoon, appreciate the reply, should have maybe worded it like this (my apologies) . The engine was just went through, (stem to stern) i seen on possibly a Cummins vloggers ch more than once where they pull one head bolt at a time, and replacing with an aftermarket head stud (to avoid cost/extra work if unnecessary) my question was (esp on such a fresh rebuild) mainly curious if anyone has had a go with that scenario? Thanks Again. Signed : IDIot.
 

Big Bart

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Cutting corners has a way of biting you in the butt. I personally would not attempt this. A failed attempt could end up in best case having to do it anyhow if it leaks. Worst case blow up a $500-900 radiator or hydro lock the engine and be stuck with a complete rebuild. Head gaskets are cheep. Straight forward to replace.

Best to -
1) Run it as is.
2) Pull the heads, stud it, re-seal it. (Best option.)
 

captain720

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You can pull and re torque head bolts one at a time on a Nissan Z24 I have done that many times it's standard maintenance. But this is on a IH diesel. Isn't a headgasket set like $50?
 

Austin86250

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why be lazy? its already out of the truck its not like your working stretched across your engine bay and there is no guarantee that the head will properly seal anyways so you could just run the chance of having to replace the gaskets down the road so why not do it now while its out on the stand?
 

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