Alright!! The GP controller has got to go!

kennyd

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Diezel_Cowboy said:
None of you guys have done this to one of the later model IDI's?? :confused:

I have done it on mine, just follow the directions that Shorthair listed in the responce above.

You just remove the WHITE ground wire at the controller, and wire a momentary switch in the cab from a good ground to the terminal on the GPC that the white wire was removed from.
 

Diezel_Cowboy

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kennyd said:
I have done it on mine, just follow the directions that Shorthair listed in the responce above.

You just remove the WHITE ground wire at the controller, and wire a momentary switch in the cab from a good ground to the terminal on the GPC that the white wire was removed from.

Thank's Kennyd and Shorthair,
So the only wire I need be concerned with is the white wire going to the small terminal on the controller. And then wire a momentary switch up so that when depressed there it connects the small terminal (that white wire went to) to ground. Sounds too easy! ;Sweet Will the "wait to start" light come on when I am pressing the button? I would like it to just so I know something is happening. Thanks!
 

Diezel_Cowboy

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Just to be sure we are on the same page.........the white wire in this picture (upper right of picture, small terminal with red tag on it) is the one that i need to disconnect and replace with my switch to ground. Right?
 

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braveops

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Diezel_Cowboy said:
Just to be sure we are on the same page.........the white wire in this picture (upper right of picture, small terminal with red tag on it) is the one that i need to disconnect and replace with my switch to ground. Right?


i have not done this but my truck has the push button as i type it on a 92 f350 7.3 i could take a pic if ya want not sure if it will help?
 

kennyd

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Diezel_Cowboy said:
Will the "wait to start" light come on when I am pressing the button? I would like it to just so I know something is happening. Thanks!

The wait to start(WTS) light will work the same way it always has, it will be timed to the resistance of the GP's, however, the GP's will NOT be on when the WTS light is on. The WTS circuit will have no idea that you disconnected the ground to the Glow Plug Controller(GPC), so the light being on is useless, you can take the bulb out.

If you want to know somethings happening, watch the voltmeter! With the AutoMeter Voltmeter I have, I will see 10 volts when I first activate the GP's, then it will increase to about 12 volts as the plugs heat up.

If I have confused you, I will try to explain it differently :confused:
 

kennyd

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Diezel_Cowboy said:
Just to be sure we are on the same page.........the white wire in this picture (upper right of picture, small terminal with red tag on it) is the one that i need to disconnect and replace with my switch to ground. Right?

Yes, that is correctomundo as Fonzie used to say :thumbsup:
 

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kennyd said:
Yes, that is correctomundo as Fonzie used to say :thumbsup:


Thanks! Kennyd, No confusion here I just wanted to make sure I understood which wire you were saying. The WTS light isnt that big of deal, I guess i can just look at the amp gauge like you said. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to replace any burn out plugs and install a momentary switch to ground! :thumbsup:
 

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I haven't done it yet, but I have to rewire my burnt truck eventually and i'm gonna use a glowplug or starter relay and hook the hot wires up to one side of the relay. Put the wire(s) that actually go out to the glowplugs on the other side of the relay. If you want the wts light to work figure out which one it is and also put it on that terminal. Then, run a wire from the cab to the little terminal on the relay for the button. I wouldn't hold the button for more then about 15 seconds though because your completely in control unlike how the other guys did it.
 

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aaklingler said:
I haven't done it yet, but I have to rewire my burnt truck eventually and i'm gonna use a glowplug or starter relay and hook the hot wires up to one side of the relay. Put the wire(s) that actually go out to the glowplugs on the other side of the relay. If you want the wts light to work figure out which one it is and also put it on that terminal. Then, run a wire from the cab to the little terminal on the relay for the button. I wouldn't hold the button for more then about 15 seconds though because your completely in control unlike how the other guys did it.


Well, you may be on to something aak, I do know which wire the WTS light is. The blue wire with the fancy plug end on it goes to the WTS light. Do you suppose i could wire it (the truck plug end) to the GP terminal so that when i press the button the WTS light will come on as well as the glow plugs? Or will that be too much power going to the WTS light? Seems like it would be 12V just like coming into the GP controller.......am I right?
 

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WTS Light!

Hey Diezel!

Yes you can hook up the WTS light to that connection on the controller. That's what I did when I did my SS GP system retro on the dog and everything is still working just fine after a year and a half!!!!!


So I'm sute that it would be OK on your setup too!

Hoss.... ;Sweet
 

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Yes, you can rewire the WTS light to work. But Why? You will have to cut wires out of the factory harness, and it will only light while you have the switch pushed. And I think you'll know that if your pushing the switch, you should "wait to start" anyway....Do you need a light to tell you this? cookoo

And the WTS light will be no indication that the GP's are actually glowing, as all of the plugs could be burnt out and the WTS light will still be lit. The only true indication of GP activity is a volt or amp gauge.


I would personally rather not cut up the factory harness if at all possible, but that is just me. YMMV.
 

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kennyd said:
Yes, you can rewire the WTS light to work. But Why? You will have to cut wires out of the factory harness, and it will only light while you have the switch pushed. And I think you'll know that if your pushing the switch, you should "wait to start" anyway....Do you need a light to tell you this? cookoo

And the WTS light will be no indication that the GP's are actually glowing, as all of the plugs could be burnt out and the WTS light will still be lit. The only true indication of GP activity is a volt or amp gauge.
.
That is what I have been tring to tell him ;Sweet
 

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Hoss6.9 said:
Yes you can hook up the WTS light to that connection on the controller. That's what I did when I did my SS GP system retro on the dog and everything is still working just fine after a year and a half!!!!!
I thought you said a while back that your WTS light didn't work when you wired it that way?

Or am I rememebring it wrong? Also, where does switched power (NOT the constant-on power that goes onto the relay, I'm referring to the trigger line that's activated when the key's turned ON) go into the controller?
 

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The Warden said:
I thought you said a while back that your WTS light didn't work when you wired it that way?

Or am I rememebring it wrong? Also, where does switched power (NOT the constant-on power that goes onto the relay, I'm referring to the trigger line that's activated when the key's turned ON) go into the controller?

One of the big terminals on the controller relay has a hot wire coming from the battery hooked to it. The other big terminal has the "slinky" resistor and the glow plug wires hooked to it. Then there is the small terminal with the white wire (this is the one that is unhooked and replaced with wire from switch to ground) The last post is also small and this is the one that carries the ignition power wires.
 
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