A Post I Don't Want To Make

[BrianX128]

Problem is I can't do it, and the 2 closest shops in my area hang up when you say idi.

 

[Cubey]

Problem is I can't do it, and the 2 closest shops in my area hang up when you say idi.

What about a mobile mechanic?

 

[Laine D]

The engine is not junked yet. Used piston & rod would be easy to access. Just have to have gaskets & sealer (for oil pan).

I think if it came down to that it would be a matter of if the truck is really worth that much to him. Especially since he said it’s his winter beater.

 

[BrianX128]

If I knew I could spend between I don't know 1500-2000 to fix it I would, mainly because of having spent 2000 on pump/injectors/ac system. It's hard to find a beater without holes in it that is 4wd. I can take all that out but it's not like my other trucks need it.

I'm still gonna do a compression test if I can ever find one on Amazon that will work via glow plug holes. More than likely I'll end up trying to sell it for "something" to someone who is in it either for parts or to tear into it for cheap and just take the loss.

 

[quickster]

I seen on craigs a guy has a 6.9 down near Philly. And there is a parts truck in S NJ with a 7.3 .

 

[quickster]

That parts truck is 4x4. If I wasn't moving I would have it in my back yard. The Philly one is just a motor. 650 I think. Maybe Quakertown.

 

[BrianX128]

So the plot thickens, maybe?

I got a compression tester at harbor freight that is mostly correct, the gauge just only goes to 300 but I figured my issue won't make 300 anyways so it will at least help me figure out which cylinder is angry. Every cylinder but #8 quickly shot well over 300, not sure on actual numbers obviously but when the needle went past 300 to where 350 would have been after 4-5 compression strokes on each cylinder I just purged the air and went to the next.

Cylinder 8 however, will not go past 250. I'm not 100% sure what to make of this. I guess the theory that if the engine has a bent rod it wouldn't make as much compression might be right but I put the air cleaner back on without the filter, put a few towels over the intake and filled the top of the lid with water and didn't get a drop to come through all day. I don't have the pump turned up past where mel sends them out for n/a trucks. Just seems odd.

Suggestions where to go from here welcome, I can't exactly check for the bent rod in the engine but I guess it wouldn't hurt to pull the pushrods out right? I've never done any of this on an idi, nothing bigger than tractor engines and those have all been 50+ years old so we're hitting my limit of knowledge here.

 

[quickster]

If the glow plug tip came off on 8, it could have damaged the valve seats. It's not closing up all the way at tdc. Could be the reason for the popping and unburnt fuel. It sucks but you should try to find some one to help you pull the head. I did both by myself with a cherrypicker. It's worth it.
The lifters are hydraulic so I thing it would be hard to bend a pushrod. If you pull the valley pan you can see the pushrods. Then you are an hour from having the heads off.

 

[BrianX128]

Hmm. Any good way to tell if it's more likely a bent rod in the engine before I'd go through trying to do that? I don't mind attempting to yank the head off the driver's side if the truck is ***** to me anyways, but if I can save going through the hassle I might.

 

[1mouse3]

When pulling the drivers side head, some tape or rubber bands will help keep this bolt/stud up out the way to remove/install the head.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Don't forget that there's a couple of push rods that won't come out with the head on the engine and the HVAC box in place.

 

[Big Bart]

Hmm. Any good way to tell if it's more likely a bent rod in the engine before I'd go through trying to do that? I don't mind attempting to yank the head off the driver's side if the truck is ***** to me anyways, but if I can save going through the hassle I might.

I am not aware of anyway to get a look inside to see how close to the top of the block the piston is going. So pulling the head and measuring is the only way I know you can test.

 

[Big Bart]

So the plot thickens, maybe?

I got a compression tester at harbor freight that is mostly correct, the gauge just only goes to 300 but I figured my issue won't make 300 anyways so it will at least help me figure out which cylinder is angry.

It sounds like without seeing it, you got a tester for a gasoline engine, thus the 300psi limit.

 

[Selahdoor]

Ok, first of all, for the tester... Get a replacement gauge for it. Roughly ten bucks from amazon. Get one that goes to 1500. And that is 4 inches in diameter. That will give you good readability and range. Don't cheap out and get the smaller ones. I made that mistake. Ended up buying a 4 incher. And don't go over 1500. The increments get smaller, and you don't get as accurate a reading. With a 1500, 4" 'er, you'll be able to read it easily, and you'll get within 50 pounds instead of within a hundred.

I thought it was a standard 1/4" NPT thread but someone else here found out different. I believe it is a standard 1/8" NPT thread instead. Just unscrew the gauge and look at it to find out for sure.

Hmm. Any good way to tell if it's more likely a bent rod in the engine before I'd go through trying to do that? I don't mind attempting to yank the head off the driver's side if the truck is ***** to me anyways, but if I can save going through the hassle I might.

I am not aware of anyway to get a look inside to see how close to the top of the block the piston is going. So pulling the head and measuring is the only way I know you can test.

If you are talking about the piston rod, get yourself a piece of coat hanger. Take out the injector on that one, and the one beside it. Drop the coat hanger into the piston, and being careful not to bend it in there, ergo, keep it loose and moving around while turning the engine over by hand... (And I don't mean jumpering the solenoid by hand. Muscle power.)

Make a mark on the coat hanger when the piston has come all the way to the top of it's travel.

Now do the same for the piston beside it.

Compare.

If the same, no prob. If different, you may have a bent piston rod.


If a pushrod. You have the valve cover off already. Just turn the engine over by hand, and watch the rockers.

Again, just compare them to the one beside that piston.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If you are talking about the piston rod, get yourself a piece of coat hanger. Take out the injector on that one, and the one beside it. Drop the coat hanger into the piston, and being careful not to bend it in there, ergo, keep it loose and moving around while turning the engine over by hand...

Due to the precup, the coat hanger most likely will not touch the top of the piston.