A Post I Don't Want To Make

BrianX128

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Great. Now I'm undecided whether I tear into this thing or just flip it and get it out of here for cheap.

I'm leaning towards bent rod still, I watched the valves moving and they seem to have same travel as others beside them. I'd think if the seat was bad it wouldn't stay at 130 pounds of air [I pushed air back through the glow plug hole to see if I could leak air past a bad valve when they were "closed"]
 

quickster

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Instead of measuring for piston stroke first, try and see if you get any leakage at the valves. Pull the valve cover , pull #8 rockers. This way you know the valves are closed. The glow plug is already out, so take an air nozzle with a rubber tip and put it to the glow plug hole. It might be hard to hear it well but listen for air coming thru the exhaust or intake. Maybe get someone to give you a hand while you listen. If you're getting air in the intake or exhaust or both, you have a bum valve, seat or both from the glow plug tip. And while you're at it, take off the rad cap and look for bubbles.. HB had the compression tester that I use, and I modded the adapter to put compressed air into the cylinder. Too bad you're so far away.
 

BrianX128

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No, just when neither valve was getting pushed down. I'll try again tonight and take the rockers off 8. Guess it won't hurt to pull the pushrods and look at them also.
 

BrianX128

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I tried this with no rocker arms, I can't hear air going anywhere when blowing it through the glow plug holes. Pulled both pushrods and they're clean and straight.

I spun the engine over this way but I guess if the piston can't pull air in through the intake it's not going to build much on a compression test so wasn't much to be learned there. It compressed the stagnate air to 120 and stopped going higher.

I'm not sure that there is much point to me tearing the head off if I'm just going to sell it as is for someone to put a motor in. Bad engine is bad engine at this point.. like if you were going to buy this knowing the engine is bad for 1500ish or something whether your trying to fix it or put in a new motor would you even care? I'm assuming most of the "tear it down" guys who would be interested are going to rip things apart anyways.
 

Booyah45828

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If you're not interested in fixing it, there's no point in tearing it down further. You've eliminated most of the easy repairs by removing the valve covers. The only other thing I'd suggest is an injector inspection/pop test, but if you're thinking one of the cylinders is down on compression, cylinder head removal/engine tear down would be next, and you don't want to do that.

With used trucks going for what they are, you might get a few thousand out of this.
 

BrianX128

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At 13 seconds that's all air going.. somewhere in that piston. I swear it's back out the intake.
 

Booyah45828

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With your cdr valve on the intake yet, that can give you the illusion of air going past the intake valve, when it's in fact coming from the crankcase.
 

laserjock

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I know I’m late to the party, but had it rained since you last parked it? Water in #7 and #8 can happen with a questionable cowl seal. Migh have got just enough to bend it but not hydrolock it.

Sorry to hear you’re having issues. These trucks will make us do stupid things.
 

BrianX128

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I know I’m late to the party, but had it rained since you last parked it? Water in #7 and #8 can happen with a questionable cowl seal. Migh have got just enough to bend it but not hydrolock it.

Sorry to hear you’re having issues. These trucks will make us do stupid things.
Yeah it poured for a good 3 days in a row before I started it. You can see in the last video the cowl seal is bent up in the middle of the hood, not sure if the custom hood messed up that. It's also an aftermarket cowl seal, the on that was on the truck when I got it was brittle and cracked. I think 8 is bent just enough it has the rod knock, the 240 compression will occasionally fire that cylinder when it's idling and it will "cough" back to normal for a few seconds back and forth but the damage is already done at this point lol..

Weird thing is, when I suspected water I took the air cleaner off, took the air filter out, put a giant towel inside it and bolted it back down as tight as I had it and filled the air cleaner lid with water. I had the glow plugs out anyways by this point but I wanted to see if the towel would get wet or not, and after hours I got nothing on the towel.

Who is to say the grommet sealed the same way, too many variables.

It is what it is at this point, someone on here is buying the truck from me this weekend who has an engine for it, at least the truck shall live on. I'm curious what is going on inside there still, but it's easier to get a running truck on a trailer even if it's trying to shove a piston out the side of the block.
 

subway

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Yeah it poured for a good 3 days in a row before I started it. You can see in the last video the cowl seal is bent up in the middle of the hood, not sure if the custom hood messed up that. It's also an aftermarket cowl seal, the on that was on the truck when I got it was brittle and cracked. I think 8 is bent just enough it has the rod knock, the 240 compression will occasionally fire that cylinder when it's idling and it will "cough" back to normal for a few seconds back and forth but the damage is already done at this point lol..

Weird thing is, when I suspected water I took the air cleaner off, took the air filter out, put a giant towel inside it and bolted it back down as tight as I had it and filled the air cleaner lid with water. I had the glow plugs out anyways by this point but I wanted to see if the towel would get wet or not, and after hours I got nothing on the towel.

Who is to say the grommet sealed the same way, too many variables.

It is what it is at this point, someone on here is buying the truck from me this weekend who has an engine for it, at least the truck shall live on. I'm curious what is going on inside there still, but it's easier to get a running truck on a trailer even if it's trying to shove a piston out the side of the block.
I have a neighbor with a bore scope, we still might have a go at seeing what we can do or at least get some pics of what happened (I found out he has an extra IDI also lol). From everything I have seen here I believe you are correct. I think the connecting rod most likely has a curve to it now.

Now that intake gaskets are unobtanium at the moment we will most likely swap the engine.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'm curious what is going on inside there still, but it's easier to get a running truck on a trailer even if it's trying to shove a piston out the side of the block.
Well maybe you can get subway to tear the engine apart and show you pictures of the damage.
 

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