89 CC build thread Frame off resto!! - Bad Idea

[junk]

Been plinking away at stuff still on the truck.

I did time it and that really helped out the performance. In 4th WOT I can hit 15PSI, but I normally don't run in that hard. I also bent my fuel pedal up and that gave me a lot more throttle now. I'm guessing running n/a for so long with the pedal mashed to the floor bent it overtime.

Stereo installed -nice to have tunes. It ended up fancier than I had planned. Ended up with a 5 channel radio running all the speakers and a new headunit.
Installed an F350 pitman arm finally. The turning radius is much improved.
Installed the washer fluid tank.

Now I've got an F'ing fuel leak and no start going on. So that's on the plate for tomorrow. Pesky fuel heater is leaking.

Hoping to swap in a 5-speed in the next month or so. Then later on swap to 4.10 gears.

 

[junk]

Drilled the 5-speed I bought so it will bolt to a Diesel.

Used a magnetic based drill that attached to the metal adapter plate to do most of the holes. Lots of ways to do this, but when you work for a machine shop you have access to some pretty nice tools.

1. Drilled out the two top holes in transmission with a hand drill using a 1/2" bit.
2. Bolted adapter plate to the transmission through the two top holes that were enlarged. I made a couple 1/2-13 nuts with a chamfer on them similar to a lug nut to center the bolts in the holes on the adapter plate.
3. I drilled dowel pin holes using a V code drill bit. It's a .377" drill bit. So just slightly larger than a 3/8" dowel.
4. I put a couple 3/8" bolts through the dowel holes to help hold the plate down while I drill the remaining holes.
5. I used the mag drill with a 17/32 bit (.531") to drill the remaining 4 holes in the transmission. I did have to remove the 3/8" bolts at times to give room for the mag drill base.

I happened to have a core engine out so i did a quick test fit and the transmission bolted up great. One step closer to the 5 speed swap. Need to take a peek inside the transferase now before I put it in.

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[laserjock]

That's a great idea. You can rent those at a lot of tool places too for not a ton of money. Hadn't thought about using the adapter plate like that.

 

[junk]

Using the adapter plate to hold a mag drill was new to me. Now using it as a drill guide has been done all over. Thank you Oilburners and the Internet for showing me this was possible!

Good thoughts on renting a mag drill! Hadn't thought of that. I'd love to own one, but even going China direct they are quite pricey.

I opened up one of the PTO covers on the transmission. All the gears and syncro's I could see looked like new. I know you can't tell a lot, but that's better than opening it up and finding grit and chewed up gears.

Thanks
Jeremy

 

[laserjock]

So you say you started with the top two holes. Are they located correctly but just the wrong size? I thought it was the dowel pins that did that were common and then you wen through and drilled the other holes to match. Clearly that is wrong. You could also have used bugle head bolts and put the nuts on the other side I suppose to help with alignment if you didn't have ready access to a lathe. Diesel ZF's are hard enough to find, I may start looking around for a 460 to put in storage. This would not be that hard to do. Did you use drill bits or end mills? I guess with the guide plate to hold it, drill bits would probably work okay.

 

[junk]

Yeah the top two holes are in the right location, but too small. They have to be opened up to 1/2". I used drill bits to do all this. I thought about end mills, but truthfully as easy as this drilled with bits I'm wondering if enamels are needed.

Now using the mag drill was like being able to put this in a big drill press so you have good control of down pressure and the bit is held perpendicular to the adapter plate. That said using a hand drill I think would drill it just fine also. A lot of guys have done it with a hand drill. Only concern would be if you drilled the holes crooked or if the bits followed the existing holes. You do end up drilling part way through some existing holes. Using the Adapter plate as a drill guide though should help keep things pretty straight though.

Id do this again in a heartbeat.

Thanks
Jeremy

 

[IDIoit]

when you did your test fit, did you install the clutch also?

onlything id be worried about is the centerline of the crank/input shaft.

looks like youll be golden. nice work!

 

[junk]

Yeah there was no clutch in there when I test fit it. Agreed it would have been nice to have the clutch to ensure it fit there also.

I'm hoping it all goes well when I finally do the swap.

 

[junk]

Used the truck to go camping this last weekend. Pulled our 8' x 30' work and play camper around 100 miles each way. Truck did good. Trailer is bumper pull, but similar height to a 5th wheel so it catches a lot of air. Trailer also weighs around 8K so it's plenty heavy.

We ran 60-65 in 4th or 4th OD at around 2100-2400 RPM. Under 2,000 RPM I was in the fuel a lot and my temps started coming up. We also were running the a/c the whole way and it was 85 degrees out.

I'm just always pleased with how well this truck does. It's dead simple and reliable.

- Jeremy

 

[junk]

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Old picture of truck and tailer

 

[junk]

Finally got around to putting in a dome light. I don't like the chrome ones that are factory so I rounded up one out of a 2000 F150. If my wiring had still been attached to the ceiling this would have been easy. As it was my dome light wiring was a mess so I had to wire into the dome light harness vs using the mounting screws. Works great in the end. I never do anything the easy way. So i had to spray it to match the interior. Cleaned it with Wax and grease remover then sprayed it with a little adhesion promotor before spraying it with the interior paint.

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Also playing with the wheels. I found a set of hubcaps from a 67-72ish ford truck that I thought looked cool. They fit on the steel wheels I've been running so i rounded up a pair for the front. Overall I like the look of them. They need cleaned up and painted of course. The steel wheels need cleaned up also. I'm leaning towards a grey steel wheel and paint the hubcaps the same color as the bumpers. Not sure got to ponder this for a while still.

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[junk]

This is the dome light I bought. Because of my messed up harness I wanted this one with the pigtail also. Two of the screws grabbed great. The last screw keeps popping the white deal out of the roof metal. Not sure whats up with that since the other nylon nut worked fabulous.

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This is the light installed. Boy, that's a crap picture. It matches better than it appears.

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This is the mirror I'm putting in next. It's got compass and Temp on it. The guy I bought it from had all the wires labeled and instructions on how to set the compass on the mirror. It came from a Tahoe I think. Not really sure.

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I'm going simpler this time. Before I tore the truck apart I had the overhead console from a 95 jeep grand cherokee in there. It went from the windshield back to the domelight hole. It had 4 map lights and stuff. It was pretty cool, but it's plastic was brittle and I was going to need to get a new one. Oh and the compass never worked. It needed a VSS signal from the jeeps computer to reset. Truthfully the mirror and dome light just seemed easier and cleaner looking.

Jeremy

 

[79jasper]

Now you just need some leds for the dome light. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[junk]

I thought about it, but truthfully I'm just excited to have a dome light again.

 

[junk]

Got the mirror wired up and installed. I still got to figure out the mount. My truck has a smaller mirror base, than what the mirror has. I took it for granted that it would be the same. It hangs there, but is loose. I'm thinking a small adapter will make it fit right. Also read on some forums where people have hung the mirror and used glue to keep it from shaking. So glad it works, but disappointed the mounts loose.

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Can I glue another windshield mount to the one that's there? Does that hold? Probably worth a shot.