85 F250 6.9 NA Issues

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Gp Ohm My Gosh

Unfortunately I do not. That is something you will have to speak to one of the more knowledgeable oilburner's about. I read somewhere today that if the GP tests and shows nothing its bad but if it shows something its good. So, start there.

Just to narrow the field, does your schrader valve at your fuel filter when you press it in with the engine on blow a lot of air out of it or "foamy" diesel? And when was your last fuel and fuel/water separator filter changes?

 

[69IDI]

When the engine if off, the shrader blows air. When cranking there is fuel. Fuel filter maybe has 2-300 miles on it. Havent touched the water sep.

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Separator Filter

Pull the separator filter and see if it looks crapped out. Could be causing restricted flow. Before you do tho.. when was the last time you drained the filtered water from the separator filter? Needs to be done ATLEAST once per month. I can show you a toasted one

 

[69IDI]

I drained it about a month ago.The seperator being considered, shouldnt the truck atleast fire when fuel is poured down the intake??

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Fuel

During starting the truck uses more fuel than normal then equals out aft it fires. The 6.9L is 20.7:1 compression. Add heat to that, and you have a recipe that calls for "just add fire order and metered fuel". So to answer your question, as with anything, too much is a bad thing. I know that you risk burning up your starter if you ever crank more than 20 seconds at a time (crank 20 seconds MAX, wait 10 minutes). Without being there, it really is guess work. I am sure that one of us will get you running smooth again.

I still can not stress fuel pressure though. You have done so much already, that I just can not leave that one alone. A diesel is a simple design : fuel, compression, heat. That is literally it, even with turbine engines like the ones i worked on from the Abrams battle tank.

Here is the link for the filter I put in my truck to diagnose my issues :
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-970...SKBHUTG3Y4H1&s=generic&qid=1319408444&sr=1-12

 

[69IDI]

I understand where your coming from with the air in lines, but id like to at least get it to fire before putting money into that.

All GP's tested at ~ 1 ohm. They all worked when jumped manually. Poured more fuel down intake and it started to slightly pop but it also seemed like it was hydrolocking the first couple cranks. Small amount of smoke out exhaust while cranking. I am assuming the engine has way to much fuel in it.

I cracked all injection lines while cranking to bleed them. Fuel is coming out. I am really running out of ideas as to why it wont fire. Its about 50-60 degrees out so i shouldn't need the block heater.

Is it possible to somehow clear the fuel out of the cylinders? Honestly it just seems flooded. The engine acts like it is way out of time but i have tried the marks on the pump lined up, advanced, retarded with no change. Theres no way something could have changed in timing after it ran right???

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Gp Ohm My Gosh #2

Take out a GP, and shine a light down into the cylinder. try to see if there is standing fuel on top of the piston. look down in the hole. if you dont see anything, we can go from there.

 

[oregon96psd]

first of all STOP pouring fluids down the intake. unless you want to bend a rod. it really sounds like youve got air in your system. from what ive read it sounds like youve got the original water sep bolted to the firewall. if so bypass that pos by hooking the two fuel lines on it together. are all of your return caps dry and not leaking? all of the fuel feed lines good no holes no leaks, from the tanks to the ip. after youve been cranking on it trying to start it remove the fuel filter is it full? these trucks have a real crappy fuel system on them that cannot handle any air in them, and the way its designed there is hundreds of places for air to get in. once you get it completely sealed it should run well enough to get the timing right. brake cleaner will work as starting fluid and if you get it running let it run for 5-10 minutes to make sure all the air is out.

 

[69IDI]

No fuel leaks. I will check the fuel filter, but it has always been full when i have taken it off previously. My problem is the initial start. I cannot understand why it will not even fire when using fuel down the intake. It did fire when i first started it with the new pump by some fuel down the intake, now it just puffs a bit of smoke but no sign of firing.

On a side note, i am going to pick up another f250 tomorrow, 6.9 with an ATS turbo. Hopefully this one will be in decent running shape.

 

[93f250idi]

it wasnt made to start with fluids in the intake. it is very easy to hydrolock these engines! hows the cranking speed? have you done a compression test? plug it in for a few hours that should make it easier to start. have someone crank and hold it at WOT and rebleed the injectors. these engines are very tempermental about air in the fuel system. have you checked the fuel pressure?

 

[69IDI]

Cranking was good but its slowly dying off. Last comp test showed 400 every cyl. I have no way to plug this in. I have very limited tools. No way to check fuel pressure.

 

[Black dawg]

in a pinch a tire pressure gauge will get you some numbers.

to clear the fuel from the motor, disconnect power to the injection pump and crank away.

what fuel are you pouring down the intake?

 

[69IDI]

Howes additive.

So i picked up that other F250. Automatic. 6.9. Ext cab. Long bed. ATS turbo. Runs awesome, but the coolant was like sludge. Doesn't blow any smoke. Ran the garden hose through the radiator and filled it back up...got some of the gunk out but there is still a lot. Oil cooler leaking? Was overheating for a while until i used more coolant instead of water. Drove it 2.5 hrs home from casper.

I paid a whopping 200 dollars. Yes. 200 dollars.

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[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Ermm..

$200.00

Ok, I can't complain. Run some engine flush through that radiator system and see what you come up with. Make sure to follow the directions. I can not think of any reason for oil int he radiator unless its something big/bad. So, check oil and see if it's low/white.

Other than that, I would say you got a decent deal. Show us some engine and interior pictures

 

[69IDI]

Yeah i was goin to flush it again. COmpression test also to see if it may be a headgasket. The oil looks like regular diesel oil, not milky, but there was a small bit of moisture on the fill cap. I am hoping its just the cooler.

If all goes well, ill put a flatbed on this one and some bigger tires, and call it good.