7/8" Hex brass return caps

riotwarrior

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Ya step is being considered. IDIiot is going pin guage a cap or two he says....

Like I said we are not building nuclear fision reactorz for intergalactactical travel folks...just fancy schmancy return caps....if plastic is good enough and look how thin it is...machined brass will be fine.

Just my tinfoil hat wearing 2 cents worth
 

icanfixall

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Why not make a 4 fluted mill tool that has the last bit stepped down so you get that snap when the cap is completely installed correctly. Any good machine shop can grind that into the mill easily. All you do is chuck the 4 fluted mill in a lathe and grind say about 2 or 3 thousands off the end so it matches whats found in the plastic caps. You might silver soldier longer pieces of 3/16 or the larger 1/4 inch brass tubing to the caps. Then they become a one piece cap for the different sides of the engine. That way your cutting down many leak areas between the caps. Now the only place a brass cap may turn into a real mess is if an injector hangs open and compression backs up into the cap and burns thru the cap like has happened to the plastic caps. For most this will not happen because we "feel" the misfire of a cylinder that has a failed injector. Al has been thinking again.:thumbsup::angel::D
 

jwalterus

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I've been considering putting some brass blanks I have on the lathe, my lathe is the harbor freight one, and I have a bunch of brass 1.25" cylinder slugs that are 1.5" long, left over from a project long ago.
I have some worn out 1.5" 3-flute end mills that I will try to turn down to the proper diameter and profile to punch the caps out in one shot, got them from Bourgault when I was working there, they use them on cast iron and occasionally blow off one of the carbide holders on the end. I figure for brass or aluminum the tool steel will be more than hard enough to cut without carbide cutters.

My issue is time, that is the resource that always seems to be in short supply. :dunno And since my caps aren't leaking currently, it's not a priority for me either. LOL
 

crash-harris

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Ok let me get this right....corrosion...brass....fuel....did you really just ask that question...really?

Better check out that float in your fuel tank...then inspect the fitting into IP and return fitting from Ip oh ya the return fitting at filter head and the brass fitting at the back of engine where return lines connect to chassis return line....

Really did you really ask that question?

Just checking to make sure....:rotflmao

I know the insides of them would be fine, I was thinking specifically of the outsides, yet you're still right. Brass fittings on the filter head haven't crummied up after 26 years :D
 

hce

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My issue is time, that is the resource that always seems to be in short supply. :dunno And since my caps aren't leaking currently, it's not a priority for me either. LOL

I think this relates to why I have parts sitting around for a fourth axis for the cnc mill but have not put it all together. Fourth axis would allow machining a cap with far fewer setups.
 

IDIoit

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but more programming! G code and M function yer 10.25 off LOL
 

OLDBULL8

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I'm going to eliminate the return line completely between injectors, just gotta have a return from IP to tank. According to the injector manual, there is no return fluid from an injector unless there is leak by from the Piston/Pintle. If it spits fluid, then I'll know it's a defective injector. Of course I'll install a CO2 system for fire control.
 

hce

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Ya step is being considered. IDIiot is going pin guage a cap or two he says....

Like I said we are not building nuclear fision reactorz for intergalactactical travel folks...just fancy schmancy return caps....if plastic is good enough and look how thin it is...machined brass will be fine.

Just my tinfoil hat wearing 2 cents worth

Mic fresh orings installed on a injector and compare. I am guesing about .010 to .020 interference. Also you will want to have chamfered edges for the orings on the step and outside edge.
 

laserjock

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I'm going to eliminate the return line completely between injectors, just gotta have a return from IP to tank. According to the injector manual, there is no return fluid from an injector unless there is leak by from the Piston/Pintle. If it spits fluid, then I'll know it's a defective injector. Of course I'll install a CO2 system for fire control.

So the return system is literally there to catch the leaks from the injectors and I guess provide some cooling fluid? Interesting. I've always wondered why there are returns at the injector. Seems like that should have been dealt with all in the pump to me but what do I know.
 

IDIoit

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will revisit tomorrow, hell of a day over here today
 

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