7.3 IDI water temp gauge sender location/size

[ManBearPig]

Hi guys, this is my first post here. I come from a Powerstroke background (I'm most familiar with the 99.5+ 7.3, specifically) but sold my 2002 last year and just bought a '91 IDI as a replacement. I needed something cheaper that would still tow my 9k lb travel trailer. I was actually looking for a 460 gasser but found this IDI too clean to pass up. I'm not quite sure it will be up to the job I need it t do, but we'll see. The truck has had what appears to be a factory turbo added at some point in its life and will boost up to a whopping 12 or so psi. I have noticed that the truck seems to be running a little warm per the factory idiot gauges, so I want to add a real water temp gauge to see whats really going on before I start replacing cooling system components. The truck has VDO vision series exhaust temp and boost gauges, so I want to order the matching VDO water temp gauge. I've done lots of searching and found that the most common places to mount the electrical sender are in place of the factory water temp gauge, in place of the factory overtemp CEL light sendor, or in the unused port in the driver side head. Not sure which route I'll go yet, but I like the idea of the overtemp sensor. From what I've found, that will give a more accurate temp that the port in the head, and I'd like to leave the OEM gauge functional if possible.

Anyway, my main question is this.....VDO offers a "kit" with metri adapters for the sender, and a kit with SAE adapters. Logic tells me I need the SAE kit but I wanted to see if I can confirm before ordering. I'm hoping that all 3 locations I may want to mount the sender are the same size as well in case I change my mind on where to mount it after I order the gauge. Can anyone confirm which adapter kit I'll need, or better yet what size specifically? Thanks!

 

[IDIoit]

1/2" NPT

 

[ManBearPig]

Great. Thanks for the quick info. Are all 3 locations the same size?

 

[typ4]

He's wrong, its 3/8 npt. Others are 1/2.

 

[ManBearPig]

Either way it sounds like I'll need the SAE kit. I'm assuming it comes with several adapters to screw the sender into. I'd have to think those would both be common sizes and the kit should come with both.

 

[typ4]

It will. I like the stock location, I use mechanical gauges when possible. When I built my 4x4 years ago I found the stock location was the best balanced. I moved my dash sender to a head port. Next engine will get an extra hole in that coolant chamber.
These turbo engines do run hot.

 

[IDIoit]

i was referring to the holes in the heads.

guess i need to brush up on my "paying attention to text" skills

 

[typ4]

I only get a chance to bust your chops once in a great while. Lol

 

[ifrythings]

It will. I like the stock location, I use mechanical gauges when possible. When I built my 4x4 years ago I found the stock location was the best balanced. I moved my dash sender to a head port. Next engine will get an extra hole in that coolant chamber.
These turbo engines do run hot.

Exactly what I did with mine

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[laserjock]

It will. I like the stock location, I use mechanical gauges when possible. When I built my 4x4 years ago I found the stock location was the best balanced. I moved my dash sender to a head port. Next engine will get an extra hole in that coolant chamber.
These turbo engines do run hot.

This is what I did too. Autometer sender in the stock location. Dash gauge to head.

I never really thought about adding a hole. That's pretty slick.

 

[ManBearPig]

It sounds like the factory location is the most accurate. I'm curious to see if the truck really is running hot or if the factory gauge is just calibrated way off. I'd like to leave the factory gauge as is for a known benchmark, but then again I do want the "real" gauge to be as accurate as possible.... If I use the factory location for the "real" gauge, can I just screw the factory sender right into the unused port in the driver side head? Is it that simple?

I have a suspicion that a real gauge will in fact confirm the truck is running hot, so I've also ordered a Champion 4-core aluminum rad and Motorcraft thermostat, but will run the truck for a while before throwing those parts on so I can know how much they help.

 

[sonictech.net]

When I first got it my 84 seemed like it was running hot on the freeway on hot days but when I measured the temp using a laser thermometer at the upper radiator hose it was only about 185 with the dash gauge between A and L.. I also added a radiator cap with a temp gauge which confirmed the thermometer.

 

[riotwarrior]

Exactly what I did with mine

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Time to get the mag drill out...when I tear my engine down for a reseal.

Tap and voila..done like dinner..

 

[ifrythings]

Time to get the mag drill out...when I tear my engine down for a reseal.

Tap and voila..done like dinner..

Don't need to get that fancy with it, I did it with a cordless drill and the closes drill bit I had and it worked out great! Mind you if I had it all apart and a mag drill I'd use it just cause.

 

[riotwarrior]

Don't need to get that fancy with it, I did it with a cordless drill and the closes drill bit I had and it worked out great! Mind you if I had it all apart and a mag drill I'd use it just cause.

thats what I plan when I do CAM swap...right