6.9 timing Where did the 8.5* come from

Booyah45828

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12g's are junk. I tested all of mine before install and you can read about it here https://www.oilburners.net/threads/glow-plugs-6-9.84881/#post-1017290

I put 60g's in mine, and they work well yet. They need cut or ground to fit, so if you want a self limiting plug, bosch 80034 will fit without modification. Can't comment on their reliability. You can read about them here. https://www.oilburners.net/threads/custom-60g-glow-plugs.88914/

Best timing depends on usage/preference, mine in the bus runs best at 6.5°. If you've got a meter, move the timing around and see what it does. I don't think your timing being at 8.5 vs 6 or 9 would cause your issue.

If you're sure you don't have air intrusion, to fix this I'd replace the plugs, followed by injectors, followed by the pump, with testing after every part replacement.

I know they're "new" but if the injectors and pump aren't from a good rebuilder, I wouldn't count on them being quality. I wouldn't consider standard a good rebuilder, nor gb, at least not without checking them myself first.
 

Black dawg

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I really doubt those 12g plugs are getting warm enough being run by the factory controller for 8-10 seconds.
 

Selahdoor

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You can take this or leave it. Given you have the 'official' numbers, and the timing equipment, etc...

You can stick with 'official'...

But given your symptoms, and my own experiences, I'd suggest you move the IP timing UP, (toward the passenger side.), by the thickness or two, of a dime.
 

Big Bart

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Sounds like
1) Your glow plug controller is working as is 5 of your glow plugs.
2) Your timing is on.
3) You starter has a decent rpm.

So your start times don’t add up. I find if you have decent compression (You have a low mileage engine.) and the glow plugs, IP, and injectors work. Cold (50* outside.) they start in less than 5 seconds without any gas pedal. They start 1-3 second when the engine is warm without any gas pedal.

My advice, send your IP and injectors to one of the recommended shops for testing. Confirm all is good, you may be all set. There is a reason these 4 are the recommended go to’s. So many other members have been disappointed buying somewhere else. So don’t assume, confirm.

One last thing. If you pulled the injection pump with the timing gear with it, you might be 180* off. They time and run, just poorly when the pump is 180* off. If you just pulled the pump and did not move the timing gear cover and gear, it is keyed so there should be no issue.
 

IDIoit

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when i did my first IP, i was -10 degrees out. always started great.
but wasnt clearly right.
i tried a few different settings and 8-9 was the best IMO.

a good pump should start regardless.

ive also ran a pump at +10 degrees, and it started fine as well

8.
 

tvrrproto48

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It's on the back burner at this time. I've developed at big oil leak. The turbo return line is dumping oil over the back of the block. I may send my pump and injectors to Goff Diesel in Utah. He has rebuilt several of my brothers 6.2 and 6.5 pumps. Probably do a compression check before that. I just need to find my adapter set.
 

tvrrproto48

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Update, Ran a compression check. I have one cylinder at 395psi, 5 others between 415 to 420psi. Could not get the glow plugs out of the back two. Got the pump back from Goff Diesel. Installed new injectors. Used original scribe mark on pump housing to set static time. Bled air and engine fired up first try. No smoke, no stumbles, just the smooth sweet rattle I remember from years ago. Found oil leak, was not return line but supply line. Stainless steel braid had worn through. Used a shorter line so it doesn't rub anywhere. Developed gasket leak on right exhaust manifold. Hoping I can change without pulling turbo.

Turning attention now to all the electrical gremlins and changing out fluid in trans and axles. Considering an overdrive unit.

Happy New Years.

Jeff
 

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