59 Chevy 7.3L IDI swap
- Thread starter ptwcruiser
- Start date
ptwcruiser
Registered User
I did think the same thing when I saw them. The guy who made them works with heavy machinery so I thought he had enough experience with fab work and metal strengths. Any suggestions for a new set?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I ain't no enginmaneer, but only part I see that I don't like is the big area of thread showing. Creates a weak point for the bolt.
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ptwcruiser
Registered User
did you see how i graphted the stock cross member into the rails?
if you decide to do this, you may need to extend the cross member.
that cross member you have is a speed way style mount for a small block F/C
i have torn them to *****, with a mild small block and a 4 speed.
and the 1/2" bolt that holds either side... i hope you dont have any mishaps!
IMO, its better to have the engine resting on a plate, then suspended from a bolt.
its your project man, and i dig it, but im just trying to share some of the things ive done, and failed at in the past.
if you decide to do this, you may need to extend the cross member.
that cross member you have is a speed way style mount for a small block F/C
i have torn them to *****, with a mild small block and a 4 speed.
and the 1/2" bolt that holds either side... i hope you dont have any mishaps!
IMO, its better to have the engine resting on a plate, then suspended from a bolt.
its your project man, and i dig it, but im just trying to share some of the things ive done, and failed at in the past.
ptwcruiser
Registered User
I've got another 7.3 idi now. My father in law had an old 91 f250 out at the farm with 85K miles. Said if I could get it running I could have it. All it needed was the other injection pump I had. Now I want to make sure this one stays nice till I swap it to the 59. When I got it running, there was no smoke/steam if you took the oil cap off. It was also running on farm diesel. I changed the oil and no metal flakes I can see. Now the tanks are full of regular pump diesel and I have a slight chimney out of the oil fill cap. Is that normal or is it the pcv valve I've heard of going bad? Also, how can I check the coolant for additives?
no PCV valves, only a CDR.
you can get a new one, they do gum up sometimes, but you can also clean yours.
may want to search CDR mods.
you need test strips to check for the SCA in the coolant.
a rule of thumb for me is... if i need to test it, im changing it.
i use peak fleet guard.
as far as the smoke, is this on a cold engine?
you can get a new one, they do gum up sometimes, but you can also clean yours.
may want to search CDR mods.
you need test strips to check for the SCA in the coolant.
a rule of thumb for me is... if i need to test it, im changing it.
i use peak fleet guard.
as far as the smoke, is this on a cold engine?
ptwcruiser
Registered User
Thanks for the heads up on the cross member. I thought it looked small but I was assured by the manufacturer that they are strong enough. I would rather not have to rip it all apart to fix failed parts so I will probably look into doing it like you have.
ptwcruiser
Registered User
It seems to be smoking hot or cold. Exhaust is clean. When the engine is warm and off I still get smoke out of the oil cap for a little while. Also the temp gauge quit working the other day. It ran at normal operating temp up till the gauge/sending unit quit.
I forgot to mention it's an auto trans if that matters for any trouble shooting.
i would clean the CDR and then watch the blow by.
and get a read temp gauge. just all around, better.
and get a read temp gauge. just all around, better.
killen1
Registered User
subbed i wanna see this thing when its done
ptwcruiser
Registered User
I am taking the week off next week to get as much done as I can. Any advice or suggestions?
Ill be paying for a shop so Ill want to work fast and save anything that I can do in my garage with a box of tools for later.
The plan is to get the 59 in and take the front clip off/ fix a few fender well shortcuts I took earlier/ and pull out the "mock up"
Bring in the donor truck (91 F250 2x4) to get the radiator, engine, fuel system, and engine cross member out. (if I remember correctly its held in place with rivets) Then find some way to roll it out of the way with no front suspension...
I wanted to bolt the cross member into the 59 rather than weld it. (Although I want this swap to last, it might not be the most outrageous thing ever I put in it)
Swap the flex plate for the DMF off of the mock up and put the engine and all of the parts where they fit/work best.
If there is time left I need to fab a way to fit the new pedal assembly in place and measure for the custom headers I will need to get made.
All that and every road block along the way I need to figure out between 9am-8pm Tue-Fri. I don't expect to drive home on Friday but it does need to be out of the shop.
Id appreciate all advice from the school of hard knocks. Its not a class I am fond of attending.
Ill be paying for a shop so Ill want to work fast and save anything that I can do in my garage with a box of tools for later.
The plan is to get the 59 in and take the front clip off/ fix a few fender well shortcuts I took earlier/ and pull out the "mock up"
Bring in the donor truck (91 F250 2x4) to get the radiator, engine, fuel system, and engine cross member out. (if I remember correctly its held in place with rivets) Then find some way to roll it out of the way with no front suspension...
I wanted to bolt the cross member into the 59 rather than weld it. (Although I want this swap to last, it might not be the most outrageous thing ever I put in it)
Swap the flex plate for the DMF off of the mock up and put the engine and all of the parts where they fit/work best.
If there is time left I need to fab a way to fit the new pedal assembly in place and measure for the custom headers I will need to get made.
All that and every road block along the way I need to figure out between 9am-8pm Tue-Fri. I don't expect to drive home on Friday but it does need to be out of the shop.
Id appreciate all advice from the school of hard knocks. Its not a class I am fond of attending.
ptwcruiser
Registered User
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Here is the progress so far. Ive got the engine and trans in. Fired it up. The clutch/brake assembly from the Ford was a bit of a pain. The 59 firewall is not as strong as the ford so when I step on the clutch it flexes a little. Ill have to build some kind of a small support cage for it. Most of what I have done over the last week was just making what I have work. Budget is still tight. In the future I will fabricate better and build it to last. The original drive shaft was about 2 inches too long which the slip yoke swallowed up with room to spare. I should just have the wiring and coolant system left before it is test drive ready.
Here is where I need help. I have all of the wiring harnesses from the Ford still in it. I want to eliminate all unnecessary wiring. I took the relay out of the Ford to use but so far I am still just touching wires to the battery to get things going. With no power to the glow plugs I couldn't get it running so I will want to power them. I need the alternator to charge my battery, I want to see my oil pressure, and I of course need power to the fuel pump. (there are 2 plugs on the pump, 1 forward, 1 rear of the pump, do both need power or just one?) Does anyone have wiring diagrams drawn up for necessary wiring only on the 7.3 IDI?
Cool build!
For the IDI to run technically you need power to the fuel shut off solenoid on the pump and a way to start it at a minimum. I think the one toward the back and on top is the fuel shutoff. The other lug on the pump is for the cold start advance. Nice but not absolutely necessary. It is tied to a temp switch on the front of the motor near the front cover and water pump area. A key on hot to it on one side and a jumper from the other side of the switch to the cold advance will do the trick. You can use the same key on hot circuit for the fuel pump relay. For glow plugs, you can go as simple as push button with the relay or you can use the controller. You will need a substantial wire to the hot post on the relay. In stock form its a pair of about 10 Ga wires (the big yellow ones). It should have a circuit breaker or fuse or fusible link in it. Your choice. Probably at least 200 amp. There are lots of threads in the IDI section on how to wire it but to use the controller all you need is a key on hot source. To use the push button you need a push button connected to either 12V or ground (depends on which side of the relay you want to switch- doesn't matter which). Most guys will switch the ground just because you can find a ground anywhere and only have to run 1 wire to the controller from the switch. For the alternator, do yourself a favor and upgrade to a 3G alternator. Otherwise you will have to wire up the external voltage regulator. You can essentially do hookup with 2 wires if you do the 3G alternator... maybe even get away with 1 and a jumper wire. For oil pressure, I'd do an aftermarket gauge, either mechanical or an electrical sender. Your choice. Same with water temp. The factory gauges were less than useful anyway.
Hope that gets you started.
For the IDI to run technically you need power to the fuel shut off solenoid on the pump and a way to start it at a minimum. I think the one toward the back and on top is the fuel shutoff. The other lug on the pump is for the cold start advance. Nice but not absolutely necessary. It is tied to a temp switch on the front of the motor near the front cover and water pump area. A key on hot to it on one side and a jumper from the other side of the switch to the cold advance will do the trick. You can use the same key on hot circuit for the fuel pump relay. For glow plugs, you can go as simple as push button with the relay or you can use the controller. You will need a substantial wire to the hot post on the relay. In stock form its a pair of about 10 Ga wires (the big yellow ones). It should have a circuit breaker or fuse or fusible link in it. Your choice. Probably at least 200 amp. There are lots of threads in the IDI section on how to wire it but to use the controller all you need is a key on hot source. To use the push button you need a push button connected to either 12V or ground (depends on which side of the relay you want to switch- doesn't matter which). Most guys will switch the ground just because you can find a ground anywhere and only have to run 1 wire to the controller from the switch. For the alternator, do yourself a favor and upgrade to a 3G alternator. Otherwise you will have to wire up the external voltage regulator. You can essentially do hookup with 2 wires if you do the 3G alternator... maybe even get away with 1 and a jumper wire. For oil pressure, I'd do an aftermarket gauge, either mechanical or an electrical sender. Your choice. Same with water temp. The factory gauges were less than useful anyway.
Hope that gets you started.
