3/8 aluminum fuel line?

13fcolt

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i made a good yard sale score on 2 25ft coils of 3/8 fuel line, one was still in the bag from summit, the other is about 2 ft short.
i grabbed it up hoping this stuff would be good for use running from the tanks to the filter. any concerns about using this stuff on my 7.3? what about fittings? anything weird needed to run this line with the tank switcher?


thanks!
 

Ironman03R

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Should work just fine, the fittings you need are the aluminum flare nuts you can get from Summit. You'll need a line flare tool.
 

sle2115

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Would think it would be fine as well. There are aluminum parts in the fuel system now, filter head, etc.
 

typ4

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Vibration will be an issue and aluminum lines are not DOT approved. Of course that is up to you.
 

13fcolt

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oh.. i didn't think about vibration. what would be a better way to go? stainless?
i didn't think about dot for that matter either, but then i never really do.
 

sle2115

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oh.. i didn't think about vibration. what would be a better way to go? stainless?
i didn't think about dot for that matter either, but then i never really do.


I didn't either. I ran proflex on mine (braided stainless) and like the way it turned out, but it's not cheap! :)
 

typ4

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Me either just letting you know it could be an issue. I used truck air brake tubing for the long runs, the plastic, it is fuel rated and you can heat it up and push it over nipples, on the pipes, or clamp rubber hose to it or get any number of adapters to hook it up. May not perform well in high heat.
 

Diesel JD

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What happens if you run a fuel hose that is not DOT certified? I'm pretty sure my braided PVC is not. I also wondered if it might be an issue with biodiesel or homemade fuel cocktails since aluminum is reactive with some things, I don't know that neat biodiesel or bio blends are just that some of the strong chemicals used in the process are very reactive with aluminum.
 

sle2115

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What happens if you run a fuel hose that is not DOT certified? I'm pretty sure my braided PVC is not. I also wondered if it might be an issue with biodiesel or homemade fuel cocktails since aluminum is reactive with some things, I don't know that neat biodiesel or bio blends are just that some of the strong chemicals used in the process are very reactive with aluminum.


I know next to nothing about bio, but isn't it on the acidic side? Now, something I do know about is brewing ;Sweet, and you DON'T use aluminum in that process because the very slight acid will work on the aluminum, causing your brew (wine, beer, whatever) to take on an aluminum taste. I've never done it, I don't cook anything in aluminum, but have read that's how it works.
 

Agnem

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The aluminum lines wouldn't scare me. Just cover them with split-loom and make sure they are tied down good. There is alluminum in the tank and pickup senders, so if you run something that eats alluminum, the lines will be the least of your problems.
 

Diesel JD

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Scott you must be thinking of WVO. Biodiesel made right should be very close to neutral if you did your calculations right.
 
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sle2115

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Scott you must be thinking of WVO. Biodiesel made right should be very close to neutral if you did your calculations right.


Could be, I run what comes out of the nozzle at the diesel pump. :) I thought I remembered bio working on some rubber though???
 

sle2115

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The aluminum lines wouldn't scare me. Just cover them with split-loom and make sure they are tied down good. There is alluminum in the tank and pickup senders, so if you run something that eats alluminum, the lines will be the least of your problems.


Thats true, but that also might prove the vibration point, we all know the pickup has some issues! :eek:
 

TWeatherford

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I wouldn't worry about aluminum lines at all, just isolate it from the engine vibration by some rubber line. I also wouldn't bother flaring, just a hose clamp reasonably tight and it won't leak.
 
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