2WD TOE - IN ???

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My 1985 2WD Twin-I-Beam F-350 has had a slight pull to the right, ever since new.

Recently, I have replaced all tie-rods, radius-arm bushings, and axle bushings.

If anything, the pull to the right seems more noticable.

I measured across the front tires and have 1/4-inch less at the front, than the back.

To get a good measurement, I had helpers holding straight-edges across the sides of the tires, and measured the distance across the straight-edges.

For best driving performance, how much toe-in should I have ??

Thanks.

 

[85hauler]

I would have to look it up the actual spec again. However I normally set about 1/16" toe on my trucks when using the straightedge/tape measure method. On some vehicles I set 1/8" toe just depends how it drives.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

1/4" is WAY too much. A common toe spec would be around 1/32".

The only reason for toe-in is the friction of the tires on the road will tend to spread the front of the tires. You set the toe-in so that once the vehicle is rolling the toe-in will be very near zero.

A truck alignment shop can fix the pull on your truck. With the older I-beam axles, the axle is bent with a press to get the proper alignment. The newer axles have eccentric bushings to eliminate needing to bend the axle.

You could also shim the radius arm to try to eliminate the pull. If you shimmed in front of the right radius arm bushing, that would push the right wheel forward and should shift some pull to the left.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

You could also shim the radius arm to try to eliminate the pull. If you shimmed in front of the right radius arm bushing, that would push the right wheel forward and should shift some pull to the left.

I was sort of thinking along the same lines.

I had the truck in a proffessional shop, once long ago, spent a fortune, and it still ate the front tires and still had the annoying pull to the right.

I think I will make some notched spacers, such that I can loosen the radius-arm and slip them on.

Then I will experiment with adding a shim at a time, until I find the right thickness.

Once the sweet spot is found, I can make a holed spacer, take loose the arm, and install it.

What are your thoughts on the needed thickness of these shims; are we talking 1/32" at a time, or more toward 1/8" at a time, maybe more ??

Thanks.

 

[ttman4]

As long as yours has pulled this don't sound like the problem, but sometimes these radial tires can change pull to left or rt. by swapping tires & wheels.

And what Mr_Robert said: "The newer axles have eccentric bushings to eliminate needing to bend the axle."
Changing one eccentric bushing on mine when it was new fixed my rt pull.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Thickness? I was thinking about washer thickness . Maybe start with 2 washers and go from there. It shouldn't take much.

 

[sassyrel]

My 1985 2WD Twin-I-Beam F-350 has had a slight pull to the right, ever since new.

Recently, I have replaced all tie-rods, radius-arm bushings, and axle bushings.

If anything, the pull to the right seems more noticable.

I measured across the front tires and have 1/4-inch less at the front, than the back.

To get a good measurement, I had helpers holding straight-edges across the sides of the tires, and measured the distance across the straight-edges.

For best driving performance, how much toe-in should I have ??

Thanks.

do what roboto said----SOMEONE--when the truck was new--didnt have the i-beam bent properly---hence the pull---get someone that knows what the hell theyre doing on front ends----i beams can be fun sometimes---------