24V from batts...

[84TD]

I built a bumper around a surplus mil-spec winch and found out the relays on it are 24V. I drew a diagram of how I think I can get 24V and it seems sound but I would like a second opinion or 10.

In the top diagram is how the batts are currently cabled.

To use the winch I would physically remove the pos clamp from the second battery and put it on the neg terminal of the second battery. That should give me 24V from the second batt pos terminal to ground and the first batt along with the rest of the truck should remain 12V. Does that seem right? Can a 12V and 24V share the common ground without issue?

 

[laserjock]

In short, I don't see why not. Happens all the time in electronic devices. Just be really sure that you are not putting 24VDC back into the truck inadvertently. Might be easier (safer) if the relays are 24 V to change them. I guess that means the motors are also 24V?

 

[sle2115]

In my boat, I have two 12v batteries, a jumper between the negative of battery 1 of one and to the positive of battery 2, then I hook everything 12v up to the battery one (positive and negative), every thing 24v to the first battery positive, and the second battery negative (trolling motor). I've had it like this for years with no issues.

 

[firehawk]

Nope, as pictured it won't work. If you want a series connection for 24, everything will be 24 volts, unless you do wiring for a battery just for the winch.

 

[sle2115]

I guess that means the motors are also 24V?

was my thought as well.

 

[84TD]

actually the winch is hydraulic, I tried to find 12V valves for it but am coming up empty handed

@firehawk why wouldn't it? there is nothing completing the 24V circuit on the first batt. Would it backfeed through the positive cable going to the neg of the second batt?

 

[franklin2]

Here's how you would hook it up.

You must be registered for see images attach

You can run the truck on the one battery, and the other battery would be for the winch only. It would not be charged so it would need to be charged manually with a charger. You could also run 3 batteries, keep the two parallel in the truck like they are now, and add a 3rd like the above diagram. The rules would be the same, it would have to be charged manually.

 

[84TD]

I cant see the attachment, can you link to the page its on?

If its feasible I would manually reconfigure the cables to the second batt when I need the winch. I have to go under the hood anyways to hook up the controller.

 

[junk]

I'm thinking you could add a third battery in series with one of your other batteries, but would need to keep the 24v ground and power leads isolated from your vehicle ground and electrical system that is at 12v.

I'm really wondering if the 24v valves might work on 12v? They might run hot though? how much current do the valves take? Could you run a small 12V to 24v transformer to buck your voltage to run the valves? LIKE THIS?

 

[84TD]

I do not think the draw is very high but I cannot find a spec for it. The 24v circuit breaker they gave me is 15amp. I tried to work it at 12V and it would spin but it had no pulling power, prob bc the valves were not opening fully. With 24V it drug my truck across the yard.

 

[laserjock]

What about a transformer or switching power supply? If you are only running valves with the 24V it shouldn't require that much power. That you can isolate easily.

 

[franklin2]

Try this.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45354

Well that didn't work for me.

 

[84TD]

can you post the attachment in this thread? If you can see the pic just right click and save as... and then add the file path to the manage attachments in a full reply. Or if you post a link to the thread the diagram is in it should show up there.

 

[justinray]

Guys... What about wiring it the way he wants and adding a voltage regulator between the battery and other electroncs?

 

[typ4]

What kind of valves? I have a bunch of coils for different old stuff around.