Hi Mel,
Sounds good, if someone can benefit from this, all the better, I post mostly to "draw fire" and get help as I go, which TrackSpeeder has
done a lot.
Auto trans are weird science on a good day... ha ha.
I'm not committed to any one turbo, I just snooped around a little and Mr. Banks happened to answer the phone, that was impressive. I'll look into
HyperMax. One idea I will investigate is to do a remote turbo (I've done some similar work on other projects,) probably put it down by the transfer
case (as you know the heat inside the Dog House would make for one hot in-cabin Habachi
) The hard part with doing a remote turbo is to not over
lubricate it, some kind of sump or metered pump would be needed if the turbo is below the sump line. It would be good because there would be very
little plumbing on top of the valley so other work is easier. It would be great because there is a lot of room up front for an intercooler, which optimizes
the charge. I haven't verified, but using two Right Side exhaust manifolds would plumb it just about perfectly.
Hey TrackSpeeder,
Oh man, definitely not done... ...see below.
Yeah FORDF250HDXLT,
It's no joke, it seems the more parts I put back in the case, the heavier it gets! (Maybe I should leave a few parts out?)
****************************************
Well, had a VERY good conversation about adding so many frictions and stuff today.
Basically, we (the hobbyist transmission builder,) kind of blindly purchase the "best kit" we can afford and hope it covers our needs.
In talking to a pretty seasoned (and candid,) builder, I am kind of finding the same mentality I/we experienced with picking carburetors
and camshafts. For years those of us (mostly just me?) who didn't know enough about a carb, would pick the best race-proven one
and use it for my daily tasks.
In the same way, trans kits can be geared to (no pun) high performance. BUT define that high performance...
...in my discussion today, we agreed that a lot of performance kits (but definitely NOT all,) cater to, for example, quarter mile runs,
or with diesels, pulling a sled.
SO,
The mentality of putting a bunch of frictions and steels does INCREASE PERFORMANCE, getting a real solid grip on available torque. To
do this the frictions and steels have been getting THINNER and THINNER.
This is were the problem exists.
It has been recently found that thinner steels do NOT dissipate heat quickly enough when under high loads. There is just not enough
steel there for good "heat conduction" (heat travels well through a piece of steel) and there is very little re-cooled fluid pulling heat
when the stack is getting squeezed real good.
BUT,
In a sled event, or drag run, performance duration is roughly 8-10 seconds, and the heat can get out after the run.
My requirement is more like 16 hours of continuous use, with short bursts, some hills and plenty of ambient heat while running down the Baja
Peninsula.
So more thought about what and why I'm doing this stuff to my transmission is needed.
Granted, I am a hobbyist, I don't have too much transmission building experience, but my Mechanical Engineering background kinda kicks
in and says this must be considered. Also granted, there ARE companies out there who have been providing more of the durable set up
rather than handling max spike loads of torque for short amounts of time. I've just had a hard time finding those pre-packaged products
only out of ignorance.
SO,
I am modifying what I've got a little bit based upon the above discussion. If you are building a Stage 3 trans (this is almost a stage 3,)
then stick with the mods, it will be pretty good for intense bursts, and good for longer runs If you can control the heat, as heat is the
main cause for problems with the thin modified Pressure Plates developing cracks and Frictions generating debris...
******************RANT OVER*******************
My main attention for this effort is the
Intermediate/Direct Drum assembly.
I am considering going from this:
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To this:
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Pros: thicker steels, more heat gets dumped out, thicker Pressure Plate Less prone to cracking
Cons: less friction area (Apprx 60%) means less grip, less area is more psi for given load (peak heat reached sooner*)
*an equilibrium is reached and it is lower than spike loads...
Still gonna research this but it was good to know I could produce the stack using what parts I had. That said, I am trying to get this
thicker steel set-up using Kolene/Red Eagle. If not, it will be Raybestos, which is not bad at all as a second/third choice.
(Note: the Pressure Plates are 0.340" and 0.125" thick, and I'm told builders see a LOT of the thinner plates cracking, (and frictions getting
burned up.)
Next on my re-thinking effort is the
Reverse Stack.
This stack has to go into the Case to get a test fit. Reverse Piston had to go in first (using OTC compression tool)
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KEEP IN MIND that the idea is not to do the fewest frictions possible but perhaps just the up-to-date number or slightly more, nothing
too extreme. More research on this should pan out what I am saying.
Using the (6) Alto (grey, 0.077",) and (4) 0.081" and (2) 0.068" steels, and pressure plate a whopping 0.550"
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Reaching in the case from a couple places got them in place pretty quickly,
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Finally, using a 0.072" snap ring, I got 0.021" clearance, "spec" is about 0.020-0.025
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If I can accept the "quality" of the Alto greys, the clearance should make for a pretty tight reverse action.
Spiral Overdrive Snap Ring
Sometimes I just don't read directions, I grab a part and start fiddling with it,
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(Shoving the start of the spiral ring into the groove, it starts to fit into the groove)
Like the expert that I'm not, I locked the ring together and heard the "click"
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I MANAGED TO BREAK OFF THE LITTLE LOCKING TAB!!!
Need a new one, that simple...
(I don't do this for a living...)
Best regards,
George