1998 E4OD on the outside... ...wait a minute!

[trackspeeder]

Actually any part of the tranny can be manipulated. That is part of bullet proofing.

Your tranny guy was correct about no end play spec per Ford. It's like the reverse clutch pack. There is no spec for that. It's up to the aftermarket suppliers working with builders to come up with fixes. This is why we have Sonnax Superior, and TransGo. Plus many others. They basically engineer the whole tranny to make it better.

As for end play don't make it to tight. You will end up with other issues. A little loose is fine. Unless there is some excessive wear good chance you wont use any shims.

Don't chicken out on that nice shiny solenoid pack. Start drilling.

With the accumulator body, always drill the holes small. You can make them bigger, you can't make them smaller.

 

[SDEconVan]

Thanks Trackspeeder,

I appreciate the ideas for upgrades! I also have to watch it though, I've got to learn moderation in this build, it is a trap! My quest for durability is by updating to the newest model of E4OD. I'm leaning toward a little bullet proofing here and there as long as it doesn't break the bank. I know the importance of getting that end play right, and as you say, not too tight as new problems will arise.

Man, I'm still getting confused, and maybe you can set me straight, I see specifications for various Snap Ring thicknesses to get proper end play. "Is stack-up clearance the same thing as end play?" Check out what I mean here:

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The ATSG offers several Snap Rings (Retainer Rings) to get the clearance within spec. Is this not also Ford's specification?

This is kind of a moot point since I am committing to an aftermarket Snap Ring that is a pre-set thickness.
It seems the factory is aware of adjustment in 4 or 5 areas within the E4OD, I see this in a couple exploded views which
show multiple part numbers for the Snap Ring due to multiple thicknesses:

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I am getting ready to use various parts of the friction pack and/or shims like the ones I already got, if I could understand the Snap Ring and Stack Clearance thing (where, why, how much,) then I think I can substitute adjusting the Stack with Steels and Shims instead of Snap Rings.

Anyways...

I got to drilling the Solenoid Pack:

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Carnage

Pretty happy with the result...

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UNTIL THIS HAPPENED!!!

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I was using compressed air to blow the chips out, and the protective cover fluttered/vibrated then broke off- DANG IT!

(why do I have the feeling that I have to replace the entire pack to get this part?) The little click tabs were bent back
pretty hard and also the little ledges broke off. The plastic seems almost brittle like it got hot maybe?

Gonna have to make a fix or replace I guess...

...in other news, I drilled the Separator Plate with the included twist drill, 0.081"

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The key for me here is to SLOW the heck down, mark things out, and double check before drilling, have a beer, check before drilling, then execute. Only 2 of the 3 "D" holes required drilling.

Calibration Plate
This plate is an addition under the Accumulator Body, just re-routes and better controls the red juice.

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Fun part is, YOU get to pick the diameter of the holes you drill, so if you mess up, it's YOUR fault! From the manufacturer's standpoint this is the perfect scenario. Got to be careful here and choose wisely, like TrackSpeeder says, "It's easier to drill a hole bigger than smaller."

You can see I picked moderate increases, since my engine is a diesel, and the converter has a lowered stall RPM.

I mic'd the drill bits in my set to just be sure they were in the right spot from my Drill Index (thousandths of an inch diameter change makes a
very "feel-able" difference!)

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Good news after work today, some more of the Hard Parts arrived:

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(l to r) Reverse steel cage 6-pinion planet, Front steel cage 6-pinion planet, Overdrive steel 4-pinion planet, Center Support with Bearing, F5 Front Pump

I plan to get these checked for fitment in the coming days. I will send back what doesn't fit and seek alternatives. Diesel Drive Drum is still in transit.

Great news after work today, I got a super deal on some quality Frictions/Steels, from an E-Bay Vendor at a great price. These are definitely an upgrade and will allow for more friction area to go into the transmission!

"Alto Red Eagle frictions, Kolene Steels, and Quality Seals and Gaskets" (And I got a feeling the quality of these parts is MUCH better than what was in the present rebuild.)

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I may need to mess with the thicknesses of some of the steels in the pack, will figure that out soon.

So this installment is about done, now got to address the Solenoid cover and start work on updating the Front Pump. After that it's re-assembly time...

Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

End play and stack clearance are two different things.

End play is for the shaft. Stack clearance is for the clutch packs.

Ford uses various thickness snap rings to adjust the stack clearance. Now I see some Alto parts on your build. With Alto frictions do not use the Ford spec. Go by what Alto has in their instructions. This will be a much tighter spec.
Be sure to soak the frictions in ATF for a minimum of 15 minutes. Otherwise they will fail.

As for the plastic solenoid cover, Check with your local tranny shop. They might have one kicking around.

Looking good.

 

[SDEconVan]

Okay thanks TrackSpeeder, making more sense by the minute!

Yes, I'm starting to read through the stuff from Alto, very helpful. Getting more direction on things as I close in on them.

Tried to get a Servo Pack Cover from 4 different places... Man, all four of them shut me down Not sure how I'm a threat to their businesses, then again in my line of work if someone called up wanting specific stuff to make boards with, I'd be protective... I have a line on a Rebuilt Servo Pack, Non-PWM but for 98 diesel which is a little harder to come by than the 95-97 ones. I will be using a stand-alone controller, so this might not be super important, I even hear I could use a 4R100 Servo since the logic is just on/off. I'm going to the Pick Your Part this weekend, it's 50% off time...

DEFINITELY soak all frictions in ATF- Question, "Is it bad to use synthetics?" (Thinking along the lines of breaking in an engine with mineral oil first...)
____________________________________
Okay, today I got the Direct Clutch so I have ALL the Hard Parts as far as I know at this point.

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What I see on the "new" Direct is the location of the Snap Ring groove. You had mentioned that before that I could purchase a re-machined shell and build it out. I'm just a bit too green this time around, and went with the entire assembly. Ironically, it was AFTER I ordered the Direct that I got the upgraded Frictions- Still, not a big loss in the pocket and surprised I'm holding below my estimated budget so far (no machinist work yet.)

Here is a comparison of the Direct Clutches:

New one with FIVE frictions:

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Old one that came with FOUR:

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The outer drums themselves look to be identical in all other aspects, just the capacity to hold more frictions has been increased.

OKay, back to the TransGo update.

I used a new tool from OCD that should help working on the assemblies, price was reasonable. I coulda fabbed something but the time to do it was offset from the time I could be doing something else (read that as, "If it was easy to build in an hour or less I'd do it")

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That pic is my hint that some tools may be required to not mar things up, although I admit I could probably pop it with a screwdriver.

TransGo has you take this Direct Clutch apart to put in a Seal they provided. Problem was, there was NO place to put the seal! So I took apart the old Direct and same thing, no seal groove. I'll call up TransGo about it, their attitude seems to be "if there's no place for it, don't use it..." But I gotta be sure, plus I might even learn something

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(Mr. Shift wants his seal to be placed just outside of the inboard set of cog teeth, where that ball bearing valve is sticking out from. But alas, there is no ledge or groove...

Onward to the Front Pump.
First they want a hole enlarged to a range of 0.086-0.093

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I went with the middle of the range, 0.089, just to give my competitors a chance...

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(Continued...)

 

[SDEconVan]

Front Pump Updates (Continued)

That 0.089" dia hole will give more firm lock up, the Stand-Alone Controller should be able to vary when it happens but not sure on the firmness of lock up.


Next I did the Converter Regulator:

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Basically the yellow spring replaces the existing spring.

Next the Boost Valve gets removed and replaced:

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New on the right, it gets a "Trick" outer Spring Seat, springs and Boost Valve. What was really noticeable was the Boost Valve piston, the old one was Aluminum and the new one is steel, and quite a bit heavier.

If you want to save yourself a lot of time get some decent ring pliers.

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These pliers can be screwed tight, and will hold the circlip crunched down, so you can focus all your energy on smashing down the Boost Valve/Spring assembly to get the clip installed. So, while you have the Valve smashed down, you can undo the ring pliers with your third hand, and be done with it nice and easy...

Lastly, I pulled the Lock Up Valve just to hack a visual on it to be sure I have a NON-PWM type (E4OD typically are all non-PWM (Pulse Width Modulation signals, like radio control models to control things gradually.)) E4OD control is normally ON/OFF.

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Verified:

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"Non-PWM type, OK as it is" (of course I'm blocking the writing, but that's what it says...)

__________________________

Last thing I did was check the Gerator pump cog,

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9 teeth and 16mm thick, not sure what that means but will be checking...

...that's it for now

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Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

Because you are using a stand alone controller. Use a 95-97 solenoid pack. The controller harness will be made for that pack.

The intermediate drum requires a spring compressor. You don't want to pop that one with a screwdriver.

As for the seal it goes on the piston. Becareful with that one. You don't want to knick the lip. ATF and a really thin feeler gauge will be you friends.

You have a non PWM pump. PWM is for the 4R100.

9 lobe gear is for a F5 pump. That is good.

A good set of snap ring pliers are a must.


Mobil1 or Valvoline Maxlife are both good to use. I used to run Royal Purple but their price went through the roof.

A transmission doesn't have a break in period like an engine. You can use any fluid you want as long as you see Mercon V on the bottles.

 

[SDEconVan]

TrackSpeeder- Yeah I got to really figure out what Solenoid Pack I have, the Baumann Controller is for Non-PWM, which I know I have, but I am not for certain yet what year my Sol Pack is yet. More research. My gut say's I have a 95-97, and with a broken plastic shield.

"As for the seal it goes on the piston..." Well, that makes sense now, ha, I couldn't see the groove for the seal because I can't see through the piston!

After a little persuading I got the piston out,

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Put the new updated TransGo Seal in,

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White line supposed to show once fully installed.

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This seal is a LOT harder material that the one that came out...

Getting the piston back into the drum took some effort because of that hard seal, but after a while it was in.

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Kinda hoping there's a pressurized air test for the function of that piston. The new frictions go in next once I
study the notes from Alto a little more, then I will check clearance and maybe do that test...

...built a tool to align the Front Pump Halves,

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I just tack welded some angle onto a piece of universal metal strap. The little holes in the strap allowed me to
see that the strap was centered over the seam of the two pump halves, thus applying the best pinch/alignment
whilst the pump screws were tightened.

******************

Got the Bypass today,

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Mocked it up just to see,

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Was thinking it would be cool to have an "Idiot Light" tied in to this Bypass Circuit, which would illuminate a light on
the dash when the Bypass was active, but from the looks of the diagrams, the BC is pressurized all the time on both
sides of the valve... ...it is only after the fluid flow is hindered (takes more pressure to run through the cooler (when
the fluid is cold,) or, when the cooling circuit is clogged,) that the Valve in the Bypass Circuit is overcome and begins
to flow fluid. Maybe the lack of function of the cooling circuit could be monitored? or if there is a rise in trans temp AND
reduction in pressure downstream of the cooler, that a warning could sound or light? Again, just a thought...

Next up, I start putting in the Clutch Packs, so I best be studying.

Tomorrow is 50% off at the Pick-Your-Part, gonna hunt for some of the small parts and brackets I need for this conversion.

Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

Nice pump tool.

Your thinking is correct on the bypass.

 

[SDEconVan]

Yep, the pressure on the Bypass Circuit does not change enough to put a warning gauge on it. But, the cooling system will have low pressure just down stream in the case of a clog or other negative function. I might place a 1/8NPT tee just leaving the cooling elements and run a dash light off a fluid pressure sensor. I found two good candidates for this, the first is a 20 psi warning light kit (under 20 bucks,) and the other has an adjustable trip point (costs about double.) There's time to toy with this before deciding to do it.

Direct Clutch Assembly aka Intermediate Brake Drum

Alto's "PowerPack" 026757HP kit was used (part of a larger full E4OD HD kit.)

Earlier, I updated to the 5 friction/5 steels Direct Drive Clutch, the one that was in the transmission had 4 frictions and the groove for the Snap Ring was located further into the case of the drum (which means less could have been done with it anyways, the 5 friction version leaves more options.)

Instructions from Alto are very simple, details for disassembly/assembly are better accessed from the ATSG manual for the E4OD.

Alto supplies 8 (0.062") Red Eagle frictions, 8 (0.059") Kolene steel plates, 1 (0.090") steel plate, 1 (0.125") top pressure plate, and 1 (0.094") HD Snap Ring.

First off, I soaked the frictions in Mercon V ATF for over an hour

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Meanwhile I used the OTC Compression Tool to install the Main Spring and Retaining Ring.

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Now the fun stuff. Trying different combinations of frictions/steels/snap rings to get the 0.020-0.025" Stack Clearance suggested by Alto. ATSG calls for 0.45-0.60".

I finally got a combo that worked (took only four tries, dumb luck)

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The black steels are part of the Alto kit, as are the first and last steels. The 3 silver steels in-between are Raybestos (0.078")

By luck I was able to get 0.020"+ (0.019 goes easy, 0.022 is a no-go,) using Alto's thicker HD Snap Ring. I should note that in order to get the gap for the feeler gauges, that I hand-pressed the clutch stack with about 4-5 lbs of force, otherwise the stack swells a bit leaving a variable gap.

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I took these feeler gauge readings at about ten spots around the snap ring/pressure plate interface. The measurements were consistent as long as I pushed down slightly on the stack by hand.

Looks like I might have the Direct Clutch internals done now, along with the Front Pump and Shift Kit.

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BTW I went to the Pick-You-Pull (50% off all holiday weekend!) and got a bunch of little parts like fasteners outside the trans (mine was bare) and cooler lines. I got a little shield that protects the Servo Pack Plug on the outside of the trans as well. All-tolled it was 14 bucks.

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I'll keep chipping away at this.

Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

The black steels are Kolenes. They are treated and will resist wear better than an OEM steel.

 

[SDEconVan]

Yep, the Kolenes are very thin so more durable is good!

I hit the Direct Drum with some air (See fluid port at far/low right in pic)

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I'll try to get a better action shot of the blow gun hitting the port, basically the air pressure pushes the piston
and you can see the stack of frictions and steels getting squeezed up against the Snap Ring. Let off the pressure
and the stack drops, leaving a gap.

I measured the gap just because it was so close to being too tight and it was slightly increased (the 0.020 feeler
gauge went okay all the way around) but 0.022 still did not go. Tolerance according to Alto is 0.020-0.025

Overdrive Planetary

More head scratching, I was putting the 4-pinion planetary into the Ring Gear Assembly when I found there was
no way to place the Thrust Washer

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The new 4-pinion is on the left, the old aluminum 3-pinion on the right, notice the 3-pinion has notches to keep
the black plastic Thrust Washer in position and from spinning.

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After going back and forth with the Vendor, I found out there are two types, one with and another without notches.
He offered to swap out the planetary for a notched one, but I would have to cover shipping. I found out the two
planetarys are otherwise identical, so I decided to mill my own notches to save time, money and hassle. BTW, good
vendor, it's more my fault for not asking ahead of ordering, but now you all know...

I milled the notches using my drill press with a 0.3125" dia tungsten cylindrical burr. Just fly cutting about 0.012 at
a time and hand-feeding:

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The notches were just about 0.010 deeper than the plastic tabs on the Thrust Washer.

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Got it buttoned up with the Snap Ring in place:

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"Ahhh, finally got rid of the aluminum 3-pinion for cars, and put in an HD 4-pinion planet" Note the black plastic tabs of
the thrust washer (reference for what type you may have.)

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There is no spec given for lash or gaps, so this assembly is done.

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Next session I will start the Coast Clutch or get familiarized with the Intermediate Drum...

Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

Photo six... Recheck your snap ring.

Make sure its fully seated. You don't want that sucker to pop out after its assembled.


The OD planetary with no tabs is the later bearing upgrade.

 

[SDEconVan]

Thanks Trackspeeder! I checked the snap ring, it looked set, it's worth checking a hundred times instead of having to R&R the trans and repair the damage just ONE time!
Looking at pic#6, maybe the quality and angle of the pic made it look that way. I got another pic

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I always appreciate someone with experience who can point stuff out, this also serves for anyone else who might do a similar job!

Coast Clutch

Let the two frictions soak for about 30 minutes while setting up the compression tool:

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Disassembly is well-covered in two documents I've been using- One is online, the "MotorCraft Service" manual, the other is a book I purchased "ASTG." Both show in great detail assembly steps and parts orientation. At first, the parts all seem the same, and the thought that parts might get swapped by mistake does cross the mind, but like other transmissions I've done, the parts really only just go together one way.

I would say the online MotorCraft Service manual has more detail, with sharper drawings and more descriptions, but the ASTG is simpler and gets it done. What I do is break each assembly down (meaning, focus my attention on it,) and "study" by reading Disassembly/Assembly steps someplace quiet, then go into my shop, re-read but with the parts in front of me, then finally I do the work. Less chances at a **** up that way.

Here, I pulled the Piston Apply Plate (darker/bigger) and Piston, so I can re-seal them with better quality seals.

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Both manuals make it very clear which way any lip or edge on a seal needs to point. This one has a lip and it must point down when holding the piston like this

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Likewise the Cylinder Case got a new seal on its' snout:

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And again, the manual is very clear on which way any grooves need to point...

It should be noted that there ARE differences in seal quality, though not an expert, I can see that the "new," supposedly "better" seal is in fact a slight bit thicker in parts and the rubber material feels tougher:

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"Stock" seal on the left, "Performance" seal on the right. In person, the one on the right seemed of better quality.

Piston Return Spring, (actually a Belleville Washer like what are used on Rail Car Bumpers,) is dropped into place:

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(Cont.)

 

[SDEconVan]

Coast Clutch (continued)

Got the press back on it

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Circlip carefully installed:

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New Red Eagle frictions which were soaking now installed. Steels were not Kolenes that came with the kit, probably not as
critical area as other assemblies, after all there are only TWO frictions...

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The supplied frictions and steels were of totally different thicknesses than what was in the trans, and the new HD Snap Ring
was much beefier- thicker/wider (seen on top of the loose stack in photo above...)

The new Snap Ring took some effort to put in, no special tools, just some persistence. Amazing the tolerance held on this part,
it juuuuust barely gets in place, then expands into the groove in the cylinder, and the ring gap is minimal:

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Obviously this Snap Ring is a trouble maker, if builders go to this much effort to make a ring fit like this.

Okay, Stack Tolerance is 0.015-0.020 for the Altos, (stock is 0.025-0.045)

I consistently got 0.016 in several spots.

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I will try to air pump the piston tomorrow if I can figure out how, then re-measure for more Peace of Mind...

It is pretty amazing the consistent tolerances these parts are holding, in this case I just assembled "as-is" and it came out about perfect.

Coast Clutch done:

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My hour in the workshop wasn't up yet so I started to get familiar with the Forward Clutch Assembly so I could study the book tomorrow.

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more on this later...

Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

ATSG manuals are designed for the rebuilder to toss on their bench. It's a basic reference manual so it will skip out on stuff. When it comes to major information, the only way to go is a factory/dealer manual.

The coast clutch has always been an issue in both E4 and 4R transmissions. They're know for puking that snap ring. One fix is a thicker ring. The other is a thicker ring that needs to cut and fitted.
If this ring pops out on the cast drum, you will have no coast clutch. If this ring pops out on a stamped drum, you can damage the tranny.