1998 E4OD on the outside... ...wait a minute!

SDEconVan

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Hey guys, newbie been lurking for quite a while, finally got my dream vehicle Clubwagon with 6.9L idi.

Along with putting in a modified Quadravan 4x4 front axle, I am now setting up to replace the C6 with a diesel E4OD.
By stupid luck I got a diesel 4x4 E4OD, was told it was a fresh rebuild never installed, guy had too many projects, and
now he's moved out of town...

I opened the trans up because I wanted to re-seal and gasket, up to this point I never really got a good look at this
transmission, I just hoarded it knowing I'd one day use it:

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I have a little background with automatics but just as a hobby, the casting number shows "RF F8TP 7006CA" which
is Fordese for 1998, F=1990's, 8=year in that decade.

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So I thought "Great, I got all the updates and goodies" but when I looked at the front pump I expected an F8 or at least
an F5.... ...NOPE, so now I'm getting nervous, or at least my wallet is...

...because I'm showing an E9, 1989 Front Pump, visions of fluid starvation in Baja

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NOW, I'm feeling like that guy with the sweater with a thread hanging, and I start digging deeper...

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BLUE GREASE! So, it's never been turned, at least that part is good. Coast Clutch looks fresh, no
grooving from frictions:

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Then I get to the OD Planetary... ...and the PO had it built for a 4x4 diesel project he gave up on,

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3 planets, aluminum case...

I think that should be a 4-pinion STEEL case, right? (remember I'm new to E4OD's)

...I have dug a little deeper but stopped for now and seek some knowledge and advice and positive
opinions on what I should do to this transmission!

The van is:
1985 Ford Econoline 6.9L idi using 7.3 IP with TPS, no trans yet, had a blown C6
Banks or ATS turbo kit to be added, ARP studs, possible cam and reduced CR
Transmission is:
1998 E4OD for diesel and 4x4
Controller:
Baumann Stand-alone controller

*Have a 3-disc, 4-bolt billet converter for this conversion.

I want this vehicle for light towing, 4,500lb, or as a shell for short surf trips, and covering distance on the
highways of the West Coast and Mexico for camping.

I am willing to buy a steel case 4-pinion OD planetary, (and, gulp, the 6-pinions planets if needed, plus
other "upgrade" hard parts) but I'm trying to have fun by staying on a budget and doing it myself as
much as I can. I'm not going to mud bog drag race my Clubwagon, as far as I knowcookoo

So my teardown is at the point where I will have to fab a compression tool or find one cheap if I want to
dig any deeper, OR stop, button it up and let 'er rip til' she blows, not really...

Anybody have any good advice?

Thanks,
George
 
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reklund

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Run it. The IDI won't make enough power to hurt it, and you won't be towing heavy behind a van.

It's common to mix-n-match parts if its a Remanufactured unit. Unless it was remanufactured after all the ford updates became standard issue (not just a TSB, where if you encounter xxxx problem, install yyyy part) it's likely built to standard specs and will be fine. Install a big trans oil cooler, and enjoy!

My $.02
 

SDEconVan

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Run it. The IDI won't make enough power to hurt it, and you won't be towing heavy behind a van.

It's common to mix-n-match parts if its a Remanufactured unit. Unless it was remanufactured after all the ford updates became standard issue (not just a TSB, where if you encounter xxxx problem, install yyyy part) it's likely built to standard specs and will be fine. Install a big trans oil cooler, and enjoy!

My $.02

Good advice, thanks for that. I shoulda mentioned I am talking to Banks about getting a turbo to fit under the doghouse engine cover. Turbo and downpipe upgrades are planned for this project, I apologize for not mentioning that. Engine has 64,000 original documented miles on it.

Purchased a tranny cooler and remote filter as well: "TRU COOL MAX LPD 47391 40,000 GVW LOW PRESSURE DROP TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER" But realize that you can run a transmission too cool along with too hot.

Sorry I did not mention that I would be making some power. I am seriously considering doing nothing to the E4OD, other than gaskets and seals. I do not anticipate more than 10-12 lbs of boost, but that is several months away from now.

George
 

SDEconVan

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Thanks riotwarrior, and thanks for the greet. That advice is def saving me a lot of cabbage:hail so it looks like a re-seal and gasket, good to know, I'm new to this motive power.
George

Oh, I updated the engine req's to inc. a turbo.
 

trackspeeder

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Don't use the OD carrier. That sucker will die quickly even with an IDI. Three pin is for small block gas engines. Four pin steel is what you want. They are not very expensive,

I would toss the E9 pump for an F5. But that is me. You can mod the E9, but you wont get the flow like the later units. This will limit what your tranny can do. Be sure to change the converter regulator valve spring. This is a requirement for your converter.

While you have it apart throw a shift kit at it. Replace the OD snap ring with a Spiral Lock ring. You can get this from Sonnax

TransGo Tugger kit will include the snap ring, converter regulator spring, and other parts to make the E4 better.:D
 

riotwarrior

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K trackspeeder is in the know more n I for sure on these beastly transmissions, I'd still run it, but that's me.

Get the good parts if u got the coin, if not well...run it like ya stole it!
 

SDEconVan

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thanks trackspeeder, very helpful. Yeah I just read that about 3-pinion AL planetary. BTW, I just found out the local builder of this trans is out of business, lasted only two years (there was 2 more months on the warranty for this trans.) I'm looking at a stock diesel 4-pinion OD planet on FleeBay for a decent price, new.

Oh man, the E9 pump has me wondering, I see F5 pumps at all different prices, still learning about these transmissions, but will figure out which is decent (either rebuilt or rebuild with a kit myself.) Very Good to know about the flow rate of the F5, I suspected such! Thank you! I will enlarge my fluid cooler lines to 3/8" too, that might help(?)

I appreciate the sources, you are getting me a big head start man;Sweet

I'll track down these parts...

...also about to dig a little deeper into this transmission, I'll fab a tool in a bit. The fact that the Rebuilder is out of business combined with a 3-pinion ALUMINUM OD planetary has me wary.

George
 

SDEconVan

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Welp, seeing the 3-Pinion Aluminum Overdrive Planetary gear case just didn't sit with me right. So tonight I fabbed a compression tool and dug deeper.
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I removed the Center Support:
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Was hoping for needle bearing upgrade,
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But all I got was bushing,
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Now seriously considering the Needle Bearing upgrade, not too expensive.

Next had a look at the Forward Planetary:
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DANG IT!!!!-cuss Aluminum casing with 3-pinions. Now I'm starting to wonder if the Shop just
used the cheapest parts on the shelf to fill this case...???? OR, is this case even DIESEL???

Just had enough time to peek into the Low/Reverse Planetary still in the case:
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Yep, not surprised at this point, 3-pinion planet again...


From the information that I am gathering, all the above Hard Parts are universal throughout the entire E4OD line.
I have sourced the following:
- TransGo Reprogram Shift Kit (Tugger)
- F5 Front Pump
- Spiral Snap Ring for OD
- 4-Pinion Steel Case OD Planetary
- Center Shaft Roller Bearing Hub Kit
- 6-Pinion Steel Case Forward Planetary
- 6-Pinion Steel Case Reverse Planetary

These were all found for reasonable prices, and are just updated parts NOT race level parts. All except the Forward Planet are rebuilt Ford OEM.
I am still learning and reading about what was updated over the years, but looking at the transmission I just tore down, I would say that it would
not have lasted too long, I tend to be a little rough with my toys...

Still trying to figure out if the "5 Clutch Direct Drum" was considered a true upgrade, and I seemed to have read there was a stronger C-Clip, which
has to be for the Output Shaft.

My thoughts as I was tallying up tonight was, "Is this really a DIESEL case?" If not, I can scrounge one up, all the guts I buy for this project should
transfer over.

Anyone have a bolt pattern dimension to check for a diesel case? (My 6.9L IDI will not be delivered for another week or two, so I can't fit the E4 case up to verify.)

Wish me luck, still not discouraged!:D
George
 
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laserjock

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As somone who has never rebuilt a transmission, that seems like a pretty long list. Given what you have discovered, and the history of the rebuilder, have you done the bean counting excercise to figure out where the walk away point is? If it is a diesel trans, and they put low quality/wrong stuff in it, is it worth rebuilding or do you go find another one? Just curious. I know these things are expensive to buy.
 

Knuckledragger

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Welcome to OB! My only comment/ advice would be to add a deep pan to the trans. They all respond poorly to heat, and a couple more quarts will go a long way to help there. Otherwise, you seem to have all of the information you need to get really confused about what to do (spend money on upgrades or run as is and take a chance?). Good luck!
 

SDEconVan

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Thanks guys, the hard parts on that list are just to bring the transmission up to spec. The best way for me to know what really goes into the transmission is to do it myself. I've built transmissions but only as a hobby, not professionally. Building a competition race transmission is at a whole different level. Totally agree that keeping the fluid temps under control are critical, and behind a low-rpm diesel structural problems in the transmission become magnified. Seeing this addition of hard parts as preventative, trying to make a dependable transmission.

Oh, I found out that I have a diesel case so I am good there:
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There are 3 major E4OD cases with different bell/engine bolt patterns. One is small block gas, another big block (460) and the last is diesel. Diesel has an open notch along the bottom edge of the bell. There is a 4th pattern type, it is a small block variant which is rare. Here is mine:
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There are also internal gussets in the upper corners that are unique to the diesel.

I have my parts on order, and I am still under budget:rotflmao I can continue with my rebuild if anyone wants to see the outcome.
George
 
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trackspeeder

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Some list changes.

TransGo Tugger kit will have a Spiral Lock snap ring in the kit. You wont need the Sonnax part.

Because you are separating the center support hub. Use Sonnax 36743G gasket. This will save you some headaches from leakage.

Throw away the feed bolts. They are not to be reused.

The five plate drum is used in diesel and 460 applications. You might have it. I would check it. Some builders will toss anything in its place.

There are no special snaprings other than the OD and coast clutch. You will get both in your Tugger kit.

Low/reverse. The six pin gear set for a cast drum is very hard to come by. Make sure its not the newer version. The new version is for a stamped drum. They are not compatible.

3/8" cooling lines are a plus. You can use a4R100 bypass set up which will make 3/8" lines easy to do. You can get that from Ford or a junkyard.

If you want to do a better pan. Use the 4R100 pan. it comes with a drain plug and a reusable gasket. Best part its cheap. 4x4 filter is required for this pan.
 
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