1993 IDI Turbo questions

Hit Man X

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Gentlemen,

I am a long time lurker, first time poster I do believe. I have located a '93 CCLB Dually 7.3 IDI-T/ZF five speed locally. As I understand this has the ATS kit on it from factory, correct? Is this wastegated? :confused:

What rear diffs do the DRW trucks have also?

Does that IDI-T have EGR? If so, easy to block/remove?

What can I expect performance wise from this thing? I figure a full exhaust is about all I can do minus dialing in the IP to proper spec with gauges... maybe an IC? I do not expect it to be a rocket, but I hope it can get out of its own way. Maybe hotter injectors? I was VERY IMPRESSED how much better my 300SD ran with simply that done.

My big reason to purchase this is for ability to run B100 like my Mercedes' do as EPA **** blocks me from doing so on my '09 due to the DPF (B100 does not vaporize properly on the regen cycle! :mad: and its killer 12mpg mixed leaves some to be desired) Many times I haul a large trailer to the dump and would prefer to use this truck versus my newer one. Sounds silly I know but the newer one is more equipped for my vacationing and would prefer to keep it that way as that was its intended purpose.

Anyway, let me know what you guys think of the '93s with the factory turbocharger and such.



Keep it up. :sly
 

Agnem

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Definitely a good choice. Depending on mileage SCA's and the DMF would be a concern, but other than that, that's a fine rig. Most dually's have 4.10's. If it is all stock, you'll most likely want to upgrade the turbo exhaust housing and down pipe. An intercooler and turned up IP and fresh injectors will do wonders for it just like it did your Mercedes. It will definitely get out of it's own way, and maybe even whatever you put behind it. ;Sweet You can get rid of the EGR and put in a road draft tube, no problem.
 

pafixitman

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Wastegated, no EGR, 4.10

The biggest restriction in the exhaust is the down pipe. Get that replaced and add 3" exhaust will help. When was the fuel system last worked on? New injectors, IP and timing go a long way in "seat of pant" feel.
 

icanfixall

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Its just as posted above... The stock exhaust system is very restrictive. The turbo down pipe was flattened from the factory causing the low hp gains with the turbo. Upgrading the exhaust to a 3 or 4 inch system without a muffler will really wake the truck up. Depending on your finances this is where I would start. Knowing how old the injection pump and injectors are is important too. We can direct you to some great hi po pumps and injectors too....:sly
 

Hit Man X

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Thanks for the quick replies.

The truck looks like, well, ass to be frank. Interior is fine for all purposes... carpet shampoo, retint, new speakers/CD player would be all I would need minus gauges. Paint is burned off due to being in Texas, one of the dually flares is nearly ripped off. LOL That is my anti theft system. :)

SCA is the coolant/cavitation issue, correct? DMF, I am not familiar with (I do not believe). Anyone have a link handy so they do not have to explain. Is this that goofy flywheel from the ZF?

Excellent news on the EGR, I have had one hanging open causing a very slow Turbo Diesel before. Not to mention all the crap that flows back into the intake manifold. Usually had quicker spool up and lower EGTs.

I am familiar with retiming the camshaft and injection pump from my MB Diesels, so that will not be too far for me to figure out. I did both of those on mine and power was far more linear from the small motors. It is amazing how the small things make the vehicles run so much better.

I believe I found a few pictures of the factory downpipe, reminded me of the 6.5 TD that looks as though it was run over by an E. German transit bus. Is a high flow DP available aftermarket anymore?

Judging by the price/lack of information from seller, no idea when the fuel system was worked on, if at all. I would just assume do glow plugs, injectors, and B100 compatible return lines once I purchase. Or hold out for a slightly more maintained version with some history.

Whoops on the rear end, I meant to ask is if this is a 10.25" Sterling still or D70/80? Because I would want to upgrade the rear diff to a good limited slip. The LSD in my '09 is just about crap. I was stuck in the mud off the side of my house......... -cuss

Not against spending the money for a reliable old vehicle (I own about 14 old vehicles and rebuilding them is a hobby to me), the '09 is the first new off the lot vehicle I purchased since my Silverado Z71 in '01 (you can cast aspersions upon me for that half ton mistake!). I simply needed absolute reliability for all the driving I do in that '09.

Thanks again
 

RLDSL

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If you look at the door tag on the truck, there will be an axle code. You can look that up here and see what rear end the thing has as per diff and ratio. If it's got a sterling LSD you can rebuild it and if its an open you can get a lockright or one of those things to pop in there without too much fuss, but chances are it is a sterling being a dually unless I missed something here
 

The Warden

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Welcome aboard ;Sweet Do/did you post on MBShop? If you're who I think you are, we have a mutual friend...

SCA is the coolant/cavitation issue, correct? DMF, I am not familiar with (I do not believe). Anyone have a link handy so they do not have to explain. Is this that goofy flywheel from the ZF?
SCA = Supplemental Coolant Additive, used to combat cavitation. From what I gather, more people don't know about this issue than do, so I wouldn't be surprised if it hasn't been kept up. I would take a look at the cavitation article. It's a lot of reading, but worth your time. And, yes, DMF = Dual Mass Flywheel, which was used with the ZF5. You can do the Lucky Mod, or you can switch to a single-mass flywhee. I went the SMF route and couldn't be happier ;Sweet

I am familiar with retiming the camshaft and injection pump from my MB Diesels, so that will not be too far for me to figure out. I did both of those on mine and power was far more linear from the small motors. It is amazing how the small things make the vehicles run so much better.
Are you talking about re-setting the cam to factory specs on the 617, or about tweaking it out of stock timing to get more power? Something to keep in mind, the IDI cams (and IP's) are gear-driven, so the cam shouldn't be out of factory spec unless someone took it apart and didn't put it together right, or there's a MAJOR problem. It's possible that someone in the past did an IP replacement incorrectly and removed the tower that houses the IP drive gear...once that cover's removed, it's difficult (albeit not impossible) to get the gear in the right time without pulling the front engine cover. Adjusting the timing on the IP is actually relatively easy on this engine...there are 3 nuts that hold the pump to the housing. Loosen them and turn the pump in either direction to adjust...not too different from a distributor on a g@$$er. Here's a very well-written article on servicing the fuel system on one of these.

I believe I found a few pictures of the factory downpipe, reminded me of the 6.5 TD that looks as though it was run over by an E. German transit bus. Is a high flow DP available aftermarket anymore?
ATS DID sell a kit to replace the downpipe with one that isn't flattened, although I don't see it listed on their site. Someone else would know better, I hope?

Judging by the price/lack of information from seller, no idea when the fuel system was worked on, if at all. I would just assume do glow plugs, injectors, and B100 compatible return lines once I purchase. Or hold out for a slightly more maintained version with some history.
That makes sense. Unfortunately, the Stanadyne fuel system components in these trucks don't have the lifespan that the Bosch parts on the 61X engines have. Generally, a stock IP and injectors have a lifespan of about 100K miles, although you could always go for Mel's Moose Pump :sly which I'm pretty sure has been beefed up internally to last longer, not to mention the other power benefits :angel: ;burnout

Whoops on the rear end, I meant to ask is if this is a 10.25" Sterling still or D70/80? Because I would want to upgrade the rear diff to a good limited slip. The LSD in my '09 is just about crap. I was stuck in the mud off the side of my house......... -cuss
All SRW trucks after '85 have 10.25 rear ends. I THINK the dualies do also, but I don't know. I haven't had any complaints with the limited-slip rear end of my truck; OTOH, I have a Dana 70.

Hope that helps some...good luck!! ;Sweet
 

Hit Man X

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Yes, I used to post there but have lost my passcode. No idea how to recover it. :confused:

I found this for the coolant, http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/4/086/article/Hot_Summer_Cooling_Your_Diesel_Engine.html Hopefully most of the info is true, I use the G05 Xerex in all my vehicles anyway so I would just run it in that IDI also. I found a truck at twice the price that already has the SMF flywheel and new clutch installed, but I am waiting to see records before I believe it. Mileage is a bit less with it too, so that is a plus. I mean it is $2500 v $1200, insignificant in the great scheme of things if it checks out better. Still a CCLB dually five speed, ATS turbo factory.

Well on the Bosch MB stuff, I am well versed with it enough that dialing in the Stanadyne setup should not prove to be too difficult. I figure injectors for 100k intervals even on the MBs, I am still astonished how much better my 300SD runs with those alone.

Guess I will just have to call ATS and see if they still have the jigs to build the DP.

The LSD in my 10.5" in the '09 simply does not work... in rain, mud, dry, etc. Complete waste of money, dealer tried to explain to me that is how the LSD works. :rolleyes: I was ... "it is behaving like an OPEN differential" and they told me that is normal. My build sheet has the LSD, my diff tag, etc. I can only assume I had one built on the low side of factory spec for preload. I am going to pitch it for a Det True Trac which is similar to the Torsen in my Z71. Factory carriers are notorious for being soft anyway, so to the aftermarket I go. Not worth the hassle for them to have that truck for days on end to just reinstall another lame factory traction aid.
 
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