1990 F350 7.3 n/a overheating

[zaroot]

I wouldn’t be opposed to a quick re-gasket before winter, while leaving engine in frame. The clutch isn’t smoked, just starting to chatter when hot. If I were turboing 7.3 or swapping to 5.9, new clutch would be desired while it’s all out. Still wanting to pickup a 5.9 for eventual swap, but my plan was to collect parts over 6+ months and not drop $4-5k at once, due to 7.3 going out on me.

I see a lot of threads about 7.3 head bolts being reusable, but 6.9 bolts are not. Should 172k mile head bolts be tossed? Not looking to buy $600 studs at this time.

Here are my findings, anything to avoid? Anything I’m excluding?

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[saburai]

Head gaskets in frame on these trucks are way more trouble than it's worth...

 

[79jasper]

Says who?

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[franklin2]

I keep hearing over and over on here that the CDR rarely fails. So you can save $55.00 right there.

 

[zaroot]

I keep hearing over and over on here that the CDR rarely fails. So you can save $55.00 right there.

I cleaned it about a year ago, appears to have some sort of diaphragm inside. If it’s got any rubber to it, combined with all the diesel oil and crud in it, it’s 28 years old and I may just replace it.


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[saburai]

Says who?

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It's my understanding that due to the tight quarters and the weight of the heads it would almost qualify as easier to pull the engine if you have to pull the heads. It sure seemed that way when Wes and I did the studs on my 94...

 

[Vern]

Have you tried running it without the rad cap tight or with the lower seal removed?

 

[zaroot]

It's my understanding that due to the tight quarters and the weight of the heads it would almost qualify as easier to pull the engine if you have to pull the heads. It sure seemed that way when Wes and I did the studs on my 94...

Studs are about 9/16” longer, which is still doable in frame if you remove an engine mount and toggle engine to each side. Still need to be installed through the head and lowered in, rather than torquing into block first.

 

[zaroot]

Have you tried running it without the rad cap tight or with the lower seal removed?

Yes it slowly starts to rise coolant level, breaches rim, and eventually bubbles. Not jacuzzi style some others have mentioned, but at 27psi I’m sure it would.

 

[79jasper]

Studs are about 9/16” longer, which is still doable in frame if you remove an engine mount and toggle engine to each side. Still need to be installed through the head and lowered in, rather than torquing into block first.

I didn't even mess with the mounts.
Way more work pulling the engine, unless you need it out for other reasons.
At least won't almost ruin a trans that way...

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[Vern]

Let it flow over into expansion tank by taking the lower cap seal off and venting should allow better coolant circulation. Might improve your situation in a meantime. Just a thought.

I got a new motorcraft thermostat and put it in the pot to test just as a precaution before installing. Still haven't reinstated the cap seal on mine since installing, its been 3wks always cautious to let air out completely first by burping and running without pressure a short time (three weeks is due to having other more important business).

 

[saburai]

I didn't even mess with the mounts.
Way more work pulling the engine, unless you need it out for other reasons.
At least won't almost ruin a trans that way...

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[Thewespaul]

Unfortunately it is not currently a turbo setup. I looked into this extensively, scouting all the forums/CL/FB/eBay. About the cheapest I’ve seen shipped is $1000-1100 for old parts. I also have never spotted one in the junkyards around me, as they’re always N/A.

Figure $1200 for a used turbo kit, $200 to freshen it up with gaskets/seals/bolts/misc., new gaskets/studs/CDR for 7.3 @ $800-900, replacement of my tired Injectors and IP for $900-1000, and then an engine pull/reinstall, that’s a good chunk of change. Truck will also need a clutch soon, so that pushes me even further towards the swap.

I have a lead on a local running condition 12v VE pump engine, complete for $1200. Put $250 gasket kit, $440 for ARP studs, $125 for rocker machining, and the $3600 DCS complete kit puts me around $5600 + $500 contingency, so only 2x the cost to rebuild the ford.

Truck has new tires, new CM flatbed, new brakes and freshened d60kp front, it’s a crew cab in pretty good condition, will plan on keeping for a long time with a 12v.

Lastly, it will make hp/tq the IDI could not easily achieve, all while getting 3-4mpg better at all times.

If I could get an IDI turbo kit in usable condition for under $1000, I’d probably do it.
Change my mind? I’m always open to pointers and suggestions. Thanks!

I believe @TurboSurge has a kit for $750

 

[DrCharles]

I believe I'm buying that one

 

[zaroot]

Just going to do the gaskets, as a temp. bandaid would only help me for around town driving, and not the hauling/towing for which I own the truck. Ordering parts soon, hoping to have the heads off within the next week for inspection/cleaning. Who's got the paint # for International/Ford blue high temp enamel? Might as well spruce the ol gal up a bit.