1990 7.3 E4OD issues.

[Pet Raccoon]

My 1990 f250 4x4 with the E4OD locks the TC as soon as it shifts into 3rd and 4th. The truck sat for 10+ years before I got it. I pulled the engine and went through everything. Engine has a 90cc pump, turbo with intercooler, electric lift pump, type4 cam, valve springs and some other goodies. As far as the trans all I did was drop the pan change the filter and fluid then ran for about 100 miles and did it again. The truck runs great but when it shifts into 3rd it lugs down and I have to baby it and watch my exhaust temps. I have done some reading and I see others saying that they can feel tc lock after the shift but mine does not. I can tap the brake pedal and unlock the tc and the rpms come up. I have adjusted the tps a few times and replaced with new. I notice the change in the 1 to 2 shift but no matter how high I set it the tc locks in 3rd and 4th immediately. I have an e40d out of a 1994 that I dont know the history of but I hate to pull this one with out knowing what the issue is.

Also NO check engine light or OD light flashing. Truck also has some added weight due to it being my feed truck it has about 3000 lb of hydraulic bale bed and feeder on the back. I see as much as 8 psi of boost before shifting into 3rd and dropping to 1500 rpm and loosing it all. Then the EGTs spike and the black smoke rolls.

Sorry about the long post but any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[franklin2]

Even though you have no lights, I would still check the codes.

 

[Pet Raccoon]

I tried to check for codes again this morning and couldn't get the check engine light to flash. I jumped out the eec connector and the engine light just stays solid waiting to see oil pressure. The OD light did flash one time then paused for a little while and another single flash.

 

[DaveBen]

To check the codes you need to connect a OBD code reader to the OBD connector located on the left side of the BOTTOM dashboard. Follow the instructions of the Reader to get the codes.

 

[franklin2]

Does he even have a connector under the dash? I figured it was the old EECIV connectors under the hood. Here's how to pull the codes. Your check engine light has nothing to do with the computer as far as I know. You have a EECIV computer, but it's custom just for the transmission, it's not hooked to the engine at all since it's a old idi diesel.

Here some instructions. I see they mention in here that if you have a light on your shifter stalk, it can be like a check engine light. But I would not count on that and you still have to rig up the jumpers under the hood to retrieve the codes.

Ford OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

Here's the full menu from that site.

Ford OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

 

[nelstomlinson]

The expensive fix would be a USShift controller. That bypasses all the issues outside the transmission itself.

 

[Pet Raccoon]

Thanks franklin2. I rechecked using a test light this time and I get a 23 and a 62. 23 is "Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high – TPS" im thinking this is from when I changed the sensor out a couple of days ago. But 62 is "AXOD (KOEO only) 3/2 circuit short to ground – Transmissions". Im not an automatic guy so not real sure where to start. To me it sounds like a bad solenoid of some kind?

 

[franklin2]

Guy in the book says code 62 indicated a problem with the fourth and 3rd gear pressure switch. He does say check the wiring from the computer to the transmission first. Don't discount that advice, you can do a lot with your eyes and a visual inspection of the harness. See if anything has been rubbing down there or been hooked by something. Also check around the exhaust piping if any work has been done there lately.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Also check around the exhaust piping if any work has been done there lately.

This may be a good place to start. I seem to remember that there's a heat shield there to protect the wiring from exhaust heat. Those seem to disappear sometimes.

 

[DirtyWood]

Thanks franklin2. I rechecked using a test light this time and I get a 23 and a 62. 23 is "Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high – TPS" im thinking this is from when I changed the sensor out a couple of days ago. But 62 is "AXOD (KOEO only) 3/2 circuit short to ground – Transmissions". Im not an automatic guy so not real sure where to start. To me it sounds like a bad solenoid of some kind?

The code 23 is probably coming up because you aren't holding WOT while performing the KOEO test. Just hold the throttle open at the IP while performing the test and the code 23 should go away.

 

[franklin2]

The code 23 is probably coming up because you aren't holding WOT while performing the KOEO test. Just hold the throttle open at the IP while performing the test and the code 23 should go away.

You are correct, but during the test the ECM signals you with a pulse when to goose the throttle.

 

[Pet Raccoon]

I started checking the wiring before I read the last couple posts. So I will try WOT once I get everything hooked back up. I traced every thing back up to the firewall and all looks good. The truck had a rats nest of wires under the dash when I got it. I thought most of them were from an old CB, gauges and controls for a third fuel tank in the bed. All I did was disconnect what was still connected and tape the off and clean up. So I need to do some more tracing under there to make sure nothing was spliced into the transmission wiring. The only thing I found was a couple bare wires at the connector by the exhaust (thanks again franklin2). I attached a couple of photos of the connector. Doesn't look like it had any kind of seal in the connector and the terminal on the trans itself looks pretty dirty. I will replace the male connector but any ideas on how to clean the other end without dropping my 4 inch exhaust or the trans? It's a pretty tight fit and it was a b*tch just to get the connector off.

Also any advice on wrapping the wires with something for added heat protection. The heat shield is still in place but I have some exhaust wrap I could use but I feel like it may hold moisture and cause other issues. I will wrap the exhaust in that location also. The bigger 4 inch exhaust puts it pretty close to the shield.

 

[Nero]

Contact cleaner. Not brake cleaner. Then blow out with regulated air.
This is what I use both at home and at work.

CRC QD Contact Cleaner

CRC® QD® Contact Cleaner (industrial) is suitable for cleaning sensitive electronics and without leaving a residue. Evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.

www.crcindustries.com

 

[Pet Raccoon]

Contact cleaner. Not brake cleaner. Then blow out with regulated air.
This is what I use both at home and at work.

CRC QD Contact Cleaner

CRC® QD® Contact Cleaner (industrial) is suitable for cleaning sensitive electronics and without leaving a residue. Evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.

www.crcindustries.com

Thanks I will try that.

 

[Pet Raccoon]

I ordered a new connector but for the meantime I broke out the soldering iron and heat shrink to repair the old connector. Cleaned out the terminal connections and un hooked the batteries while I was doing it. After every thing was done I checked codes at WOT and all were clear. Took it for a short test drive from 0 to 65 about 4 times and still the same issue. Checked codes again and all were clear. Now im stumped again if repairing the connector cleared the codes why is the TC still locked from 2nd through 4th?