So I'm on mobile so forgive me.
I always thought I had the 1/4 tank sock pickup issue, but when I filled my tanks it'd be way over full.
Then yesterday the truck just died Upon start up, knowing that I had no leaks or air intrusion, I noticed my lift pump was sucking on my finger instead of blowing, Giggity I know. So I threw it on, no start.
So I check my selector valve, its not allowing fuel flow, and both my tanks read the same after driving all week.
On a 87 and ip your sending units will read 16-160 Ohms.
In the pig tail on the selector valve u have 6 wires and they are as follows
Brown-white stripe= switch power
Red= other switch power
Solid yellow- fuel gauge
Blue / yellow stripe - rear sending unit
Yellow / light blue stripe - front sending unit
If you jump either sending unit to solid yellow and your level reading differs from how it is when it is connected normally, that valve is bad.
Because of the valve design it can fail in such a way that fuel draws from both tanks at the same time or it can siphon back and forth with no notice of change. I never knew,
When I noticed my gauge not moving for rear tank in a weeks span, I fanagled with the dash switch, ie I flipped it back and forth repeatedly. This caused it to stick in the front tank only position which had been siphoning to rear, and now was bone dry.
I have a power probe and I applied power to the spades in the valve, trying to get thesolenoid to operate at no avail, although with a test light it showed my dash switch to be good.
If the valve still operates correctly but the tanks don't read right, you could possibly throw in a 3 way toggle switch in line to operate the guage flipping tank readings, but the valve will fail eventually.
Bad news, they have universal valves that involve you hacking the ends of the fuel lines off and cutting up the plug, that's 131 dollars at that rate you might as well by the dealer only part, I did but I get to use my companys discount (I'm a mechanic) it was to the public 356.90 I got it for 237.03
Pricey I know, you could possible go around this valve its up to you .
Now for my readings, one tank was 26.2 Ohms, while the other was 156 Ohms, but on the dash it read full on both.
Damn I thought I was getting really good fuel mileage, oh yea and if plan on doing the valve, get the Damn fuel line clips before removale,there brittle they break easy, not coming off only on install. While your trying to stick the full tNk line on.
I think that pretty much sums it up, ask away ill explain more if need to.
Anthony
Ps this phone pissed me off
I always thought I had the 1/4 tank sock pickup issue, but when I filled my tanks it'd be way over full.
Then yesterday the truck just died Upon start up, knowing that I had no leaks or air intrusion, I noticed my lift pump was sucking on my finger instead of blowing, Giggity I know. So I threw it on, no start.
So I check my selector valve, its not allowing fuel flow, and both my tanks read the same after driving all week.
On a 87 and ip your sending units will read 16-160 Ohms.
In the pig tail on the selector valve u have 6 wires and they are as follows
Brown-white stripe= switch power
Red= other switch power
Solid yellow- fuel gauge
Blue / yellow stripe - rear sending unit
Yellow / light blue stripe - front sending unit
If you jump either sending unit to solid yellow and your level reading differs from how it is when it is connected normally, that valve is bad.
Because of the valve design it can fail in such a way that fuel draws from both tanks at the same time or it can siphon back and forth with no notice of change. I never knew,
When I noticed my gauge not moving for rear tank in a weeks span, I fanagled with the dash switch, ie I flipped it back and forth repeatedly. This caused it to stick in the front tank only position which had been siphoning to rear, and now was bone dry.
I have a power probe and I applied power to the spades in the valve, trying to get thesolenoid to operate at no avail, although with a test light it showed my dash switch to be good.
If the valve still operates correctly but the tanks don't read right, you could possibly throw in a 3 way toggle switch in line to operate the guage flipping tank readings, but the valve will fail eventually.
Bad news, they have universal valves that involve you hacking the ends of the fuel lines off and cutting up the plug, that's 131 dollars at that rate you might as well by the dealer only part, I did but I get to use my companys discount (I'm a mechanic) it was to the public 356.90 I got it for 237.03
Pricey I know, you could possible go around this valve its up to you .
Now for my readings, one tank was 26.2 Ohms, while the other was 156 Ohms, but on the dash it read full on both.
Damn I thought I was getting really good fuel mileage, oh yea and if plan on doing the valve, get the Damn fuel line clips before removale,there brittle they break easy, not coming off only on install. While your trying to stick the full tNk line on.
I think that pretty much sums it up, ask away ill explain more if need to.
Anthony
Ps this phone pissed me off
